jimmythesaint
15+ Year Contributor
- 108
- 3
- Oct 26, 2007
-
Montgomery,
Alabama
So Ive had the block for a while and even most of the parts gathered together.
I started with a 6bolt 4G64 block out of a Gallant found at the local Pull-A-Part. The block was in great shape but the crank was bad due to some scoring. So, I had to find another crankshaft. It just so happens that I found one in a Mitsubishi Mighty Max at the same salvage yard.
I had a friend drill and tap the block for oil squirters and ordered factory mitsubishi EVO squirters MN143460. I know some people dont bother doing this, but I figure it cant hurt anything and my buddy built his 2.4 this way and his car ran 11's, so Ill do things the same way he did.
I ordered .20 over Wiseco pistons and Eagle H-beam rods and ACL race bearings. I sent the pistons off to performance coatings and had them ceramic coat the tops and use their dry film lubricant on the bottoms of the pistons. I also had them dry film coat the bearings.
Add in a set of ARP main and head studs and Im pretty much set for the bottom end.
I started with a 6bolt 4G64 block out of a Gallant found at the local Pull-A-Part. The block was in great shape but the crank was bad due to some scoring. So, I had to find another crankshaft. It just so happens that I found one in a Mitsubishi Mighty Max at the same salvage yard.
I had a friend drill and tap the block for oil squirters and ordered factory mitsubishi EVO squirters MN143460. I know some people dont bother doing this, but I figure it cant hurt anything and my buddy built his 2.4 this way and his car ran 11's, so Ill do things the same way he did.
I ordered .20 over Wiseco pistons and Eagle H-beam rods and ACL race bearings. I sent the pistons off to performance coatings and had them ceramic coat the tops and use their dry film lubricant on the bottoms of the pistons. I also had them dry film coat the bearings.
Add in a set of ARP main and head studs and Im pretty much set for the bottom end.
