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started to rewire my fuel pump, and then....

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you might just have some type of nasty carbon build-up. if you got the time to get some of that seafoam or anyother type of cumbustion chamber cleaner, that would help. try to get some logs to see whats really going on.
 
ChrisFlo said:
Well guys, I was able to drive the car home today, it sputtered and bogged the whole way, but it didn't die. I put some new plugs in but the car's still running the same. I think that with the recent improvement, that it may just need to run for a few days (as was said) before it'll be back to normal. I'll post back in a few days on the car's status. Thanks guys.
that doesnt have anything to do with your ECU, i took out my battery 1000 times, that never happened. ECU is not learning, its just trying to set fuel injection followed by what sensor's say. its making the best mixture, for that doesnt need 5 min of driving. Your problem is different , for some reason fuel or air doesnt come how suppose to do. maybe mas sensor is bad, not hooked corectly (try to rehook it), check also fuel pressure regulator , O2 sensor .....................
 
MOCO-95TSI said:
I have a couple of dsms and and one of them, (which happens to be my 98 gst) had a similar issue almost every time I disconnected the battery. It seems to have a very hard time staying at idle for a day or so, and I am not sure why..... WTF . I just drive the car lightly for a while giving gas, as so the car does not die out. Eventually, the car seems to relearn the idle and balances itself out, but it does however, take some driving and idling for the car to seem to come around back to normal.(hard driving only seemed to exacerbate the problem and delay recovery time.) I have never had a CEL because of this, though. Although this post doesn't give any reason as to why you are experiencing this :coy:. I hope you can at least know you are not the only one who has experienced this, and hope the problem is not be as serious as it sounds. keep us posted.

just to back this guy up.

whenever i disconnected the battery on my 97 GST long enough for the ECU to reset(only takes a minute or so) the car would have driveability issues.

when you started it(say, in the garage) it would idle and rev up fine. but as soon as you backed out of the driveway and gave the motor any load, it would die as soon as you put the clutch in. but it would start up again and rev fine and idle, but once you started driving down the street and came to a stop and put the clutch in, it would die. it would die the first couple stops, then after that when you put the clutch in, it would hang at 200rpm for a hour or so of stop and go. then each consecutive hour of driving it would figure things out and finally, after a couple hours(maybe a day or two) it would figure things out.
 
I took it out for a drive tonight, and it's still a little shaky, but it seems to be gradually improving.
 
Can anyone refresh me on how to pull up the CEL codes for Palm n Stein on an M100? I was still having issues tonight after driving it and I want to see what the code says so that I might narrow it down. I've been reading up some on the ISC's commonly going bad as well. Possible or too coincidental for my situation?






Oh, by the way, I hate my car.
 
I did drill a hole through the rubber around the grommet coming through the firewall. I considered that as a reason why I'm having trouble, but I checked out where I drilled and it looked okay. Grommet wasn't penetrated, nothing else seemed to have been hit.

I'm able to get the readings on the logger, but since I'm somewhat new to using it, I'm not too familiar with it. I know how to save the logs, but how do I get them onto the computer and chart them? Thx.
 
I was able to pull up the codes from my logger, came up with these:

PO105- MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
PO120- Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit malfunction

Any remedies to these or am I stuck buying new parts?
 
Well check the map sensor on top of the Mani..and the tps is located on the t-body.. if you moved or bumped it or something that would cause an issue.. or if the connection's were loose.. check em!
 
That's the thing, I never messed with them at all. I wiggled both of them already, they seem to be secure.
 
It seems like stock ECU is trying to relearn the "settings".

I tried pulling my battery out too for rewiring my fuel pump too, but had to put everything urgently back..

And yes, my car's idle would seem to almost die at every stop light I stopped at..

Maybe dirty clogged air filter?
 
Seems like the car improves daily. Today I drove it with pretty much no stuttering and zero dying. I guess my ECU is a little "slow" in relearning its settings. But I think its getting there. I'm still a little confused on the CEL light being on though if its driving okay. I'll keep you guys updated on its status. Thanks for all the responses. :thumb:
 
ChrisFlo said:
I was able to pull up the codes from my logger, came up with these:

PO105- MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
PO120- Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit malfunction

Any remedies to these or am I stuck buying new parts?
Did you clear these codes?
 
Will do, probly tomorrow afternoon. I'll post back. How much do the sensors usually cost?
 
I had the same problems, I would try changing the spark plug wires, Thats what happened to my N/T the first time.

Now its my distrubutor, that won't let the pos car start at all now. :cry:

Just my opinion!
 
95dsmracer95 said:
I had the same problems, I would try changing the spark plug wires, Thats what happened to my N/T the first time.

Now its my distrubutor, that won't let the pos car start at all now. :cry:

Just my opinion!

Doubt it's the wires, they're less than 8 months old.
 
speedy13 said:
COMIG SOON.....TPS relacement,It can't take that long for your ECU to learn,log it,and check your TPS positionwhile your accelerating.keep us posteed.

Today's results- I decided to unhook and rehook up the battery just for the heck of it, and this seems to have permanently cleared my CEL's.

Following this, I ran my logger, and strangely enough, the TPS readings seemed to be accurate. At idle, the reading stayed at zero, and under acceleration, it climbed gradually, and was 100% at WOT. Car's still a little shaky, and I noticed that it is MOST unstable under 3500 RPM. Hard to tell at this point if this is because of rehooking up the battery and giving the ECU time to relearn, or if it's a problem still correlating to the previous issue.
 
Well explain the gradual improvement when I have made no other changes to the car.
 
that is the thing, you are saying improvements, not ,it finally works. That is something else and i guarantee you its related to fuel or the sensors (fpr, fuel pump, O2 sensor, maf , throttle etc.)
 
Sounds normal, for a modified car anyway. If the car was stock you would barely notice anything. The car wont drive well for a couple hundred miles while the ECU modifies the default fuel trims to make the car run the way its supposed to.

I read that DSMlink for 1G's has a battery backup feature to save your settings, but everyone else just has to deal with it.
 
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