Started to replace my main/rod bearings and crankshaft... please help.

[packinkimber45]

Hello everyone. I checked my oil clearance for my main/rod bearings yesterday and everything checks out. Now I just got done applying assembly lube to all bearings and am starting to install the main and rod caps. First off, haynes manual states that the torque for rod cap nuts are 36-38 and main cap bolts 47-51 ft/lbs. Should I use these torque values or is there a different one in the fsm? I have looked everywhere on my fsm on cd and they only have torque values for 1.8L but not for 2.0L turbo... Am I looking in the wrong spot? 90-91 ecb, under engine are the torque specs?

Also when I install my rod cap nuts and main cap bolts do I make sure they are dry before I install and torque or a little of the multi purpose super white grease I used to coat all my bearings or wd-40 or motor oil? Also in haynes it states to install all main caps and torque to specified value except for the thrust main cap to torque to 10-12 ft lbs? Sorry I'm confused and this is the first time I have done this stuff. Also the motor has been on the engine stand for 2 years with rods and piston still in it along with head while its upside down. I sprayed oil in the cylinder walls a couple of years ago but not recently. Do I make sure the cylinder walls are coated with oil before I install the main caps and rods? Any additional steps for installing my crank/main and rod bearings would be great too just to make sure I did it right.

I also lost track of what order my main cap bolts were in, they got mixed up so not sure exactly what spot each bolt came from except the one for the oil pick up tube.

It is a 91 turbo 6 bolt motor by the way. Thanks.

At first I used a good amount of assembly lube. After re-reading haynes it states to use a thin layer of assembly lube. However after reading some threads people say to use a lot of assembly lube. After reading haynes I pulled out the crank and relubed bearings with a thin coat of assembly lube. Do I need to start over again and apply a good amount of lube? I dont want to spin bearings. This is my first time doing this, I am getting worried.

Is this enough lube?

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I pretty much did the same on all the other bearings, please let me know if I need to pull the crank again and reapply more lube on all the bearings.

 

[rx7ttlm]

OK, NEVER TORQUE engine hardware without lube (by engine hardware I mean rod bolts, main cap hardware, head bolts/ studs etc).

Second, I would suggest using ARP hardware and if you have the capability measuring rod bolt stretch vs torquing since its the most accurate method. If you don't have the ability to do that use 30 wt oil, NOT wd40 or any of that. I use ARP moly lube on all my hardware, but I also only use arp bolts. Good insurance if you ask me.

work package 11 page 127 shows rod bolt nut torque to be 36-38 FT/LB. Main caps are 47-51 LF/LB. Dont just torque them down all the way, 25 lbs to start and 10 lb increments after that in the proper torque sequence. PM if you need more info.. watch the caps to make sure they are even. And for orientation of main caps look at my build thread with the main caps on. Make sure there is plenty of lube, and even with that I would prelube the engine with pressurized oil to the oil filter housing till the oil comes out of the lifters.

 

[packinkimber45]

Thank you. I will be sure to use oil for torqueing. How about the picture I posted... Did I lube the bearings enough? If not can I just put more on the lower bearings or pull crank and redo all bearings? Thanks again

 

[lepo_qq]

That should be more than enough. You dont need too much lube on the bearings, but you definitely need some.

 

[rx7ttlm]

Thank you. I will be sure to use oil for torqueing. How about the picture I posted... Did I lube the bearings enough? If not can I just put more on the lower bearings or pull crank and redo all bearings? Thanks again

it looks like enough, I use a little 1/2 inch paint brush chopped down to an inch. it works well and flows the assembly lube well. If you put that much on all the bearings you should be good, assuming its similar assembly lube to the redline stuff I use. The biggest problem I have seen is people not cleaning bearings, the bearing backs!!! (I have seen dirt get impressioned on the bearing back from people not cleaning the back of the bearing and the block. ) Making sure everything is cleaned like you would eat off of it, taking your time, and torquing EVERYTHING I like to mark fasteners with a sharpie when I torque them that way there is no question its been done when I come back later.

 

[dantej]

im also doing this, but my chilton book says 14.5ft/lbs for tha rod caps and 18 for the main bearings. should i go with 36-38ft/lbs for the rods and 47-52ft/lbs for the mains ?

 

[packinkimber45]

it looks like enough, I use a little 1/2 inch paint brush chopped down to an inch. it works well and flows the assembly lube well. If you put that much on all the bearings you should be good, assuming its similar assembly lube to the redline stuff I use. The biggest problem I have seen is people not cleaning bearings, the bearing backs!!! (I have seen dirt get impressioned on the bearing back from people not cleaning the back of the bearing and the block. ) Making sure everything is cleaned like you would eat off of it, taking your time, and torquing EVERYTHING I like to mark fasteners with a sharpie when I torque them that way there is no question its been done when I come back later.

Ok thanks. I used some multi-purpose super white grease that is lithium based and water resistant. I dont know if its high quality stuff or not.

im also doing this, but my chilton book says 14.5ft/lbs for tha rod caps and 18 for the main bearings. should i go with 36-38ft/lbs for the rods and 47-52ft/lbs for the mains ?

Depends if yours is a 6 bolt or 7 bolt. From what I've read from haynes and online it's different for 7 bolt. If yours is a 7 bolt there is publication out there that the torque specs previously published are wrong and it states what torque specs and procedure should be followed. Let me know if yours is, I have paper work from the machine shop I went to yesterday that states this.