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2G Stalling problem

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Rayski

Proven Member
65
3
Dec 14, 2013
Chicago, Illinois
Hey guys.
I had a vrsf fmic with tial bov installed a month ago, and ever since have been stalling at every red light. Some days it won't even stall, but even on those days if I turn it off and back on the problem is back.
It also does not idle without me giving it gas to keep it alive.

So I switched to SD thinking it was because the bov was vta, but it didn't help at all.

Any ideas?
 
do you find it to be pretty hot those day cause what might be is you have a fire that is making connection well there is moderate temperatures and it looses connection once it is hot but shrinks when cold.
 
I have allot if ideas bud and I will go one step further, shall I make a suggestion. Remove the vrsf fmic with tial bov and restore it back to factory if possible. See if the problem is duplicated without the mods as opposed when you have the mods installed. At least unless you happen to stumble upon the cause of the problem it will save allot of guess work trying to isolate the problem. Soon as you can narrow the cause can you find the source. I'm not sure of your skills or talents and the diagnostic tools you have at your disposal so there are hundreds of guesses I can tell you it is. I have been in this industry for over 20 years and when I run into drive-ability electrical problems I have to go back to to using my scan Maxisys scan tool and AllData to figure out sensor specs and how those readings should compare while on a test drive. Sometimes I will spot the occasional break in the wire, bad connector end, sensors out of specs, etc but more times than not you have to have the tools at your disposal and a database to paint yourself a picture of what's going on.

With being said and out of the way and all else has failed up until now; my first idea would to be clean the throttle body and the idle control solenoid. Make sure the MAF or MASS sensor which ever you have is clean, use spray brake cleaner to clean off any dirt. Make sure the I.C.S. is functioning properly you will need a scan tool equivalent and/or a D.V.O.M. can work if you know how to operate one and have sensor specs and testing procedures. If you run out of ideas let me know and I will give you some more o.k. =)

See clarification:
"using a GM style MAF spray brake cleaner will work but let the sensor air dry for awhile before you plug it in also clean just the sensor wire end facing from the air filter element... If your using the OEM MASS then you will need to use something like CRC MASS Air Flow cleaner" {stars}
 
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I should clarify if your using a GM style MAF spray brake cleaner will work but let the sensor air dry for awhile before you plug it in also clean just the sensor wire portion only on end facing from the air filter element... The Arrow points toward the flow so you spray only with the flow. DO NOT drench your sensor and immediately plug it in. If your using the OEM MASS then you will need to use something like CRC MASS Air Flow cleaner it is designed to leave no residue behind and safe for our sensors that are OEM..Again allow time to air dry, compressed air or hair dryer NO HEAT if your in a rush. Again do not immediately plug it in give the sensor time to dry completely.

@pauleyman "Ecu does not know where the isc actually is. Test the unit itself."

Very good suggestion to start because the the air passage can get stuck and not allow idle air to by-pass this causes allot of cranking and stalling problems.

Since it is an idle issue best part to start would be there. On the DSM Most VFAQ it has been covered many times with allot of good tips over the years so if you want some good reading that is a good place to go. If it is I.C.S then about $75 to $125 to fix and make sure to get a new O-Ring. You can reset the I.C.S by turning the key off/on 3 times in a row without starting the vehicle was one way I read about a tip that was not found in the factory service manual.
 
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