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stalling after intake install HELP!!!

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famouz13

Probationary Member
29
0
Jun 24, 2006
san diego, California
ok guys, ive searched and searched to figure this out but to no avail, so here it go's. i bought a ebay intake and installed it on my 99 gs-t. it was fine at first like like city driving. then i got on the freeway and it violently cut out at about 3-4k, i reinstalled the stock intake and took a good look at the ebay intake, i noticed that it lacked a dump tube"it had a spot for the for the dump tube but no tubing inside the inkake" i went to the hardware store bought some pvc pipe and jbwelded it into the intake according to a VFAQ , then reinstalled it and checked all vac lines, MAF sensor all that stuff plus everything else, but now it's not near as fast and the BOV is really quiet also it still stalls every once in a while .... any help would be appreciated
 
By "JB welded it into the intake" do you mean you extended a PVC tube INSIDE the intake leading down to the turbo, as the stock intake hose had installed in it? If this is the case, immediately take it out. One common modification with the stock intake tube is to actually cut that dump tube to make the BOV louder and to increase flow through the intake pipe (on mine it made the BOV quieter; this appears to actually be common). On aftermarket pipes, this dump tube doesn't exist, to increase flow, and not for the reason that Mitsubishi engineers designed the extended tube: to reduce the BOV noise for Joe and Jane Q. Public, who probably doesn't want his or her car making weird whoosing noises.

Now, if that PVC tube that I'm thinking you JBWelded inside your intake breaks loose, it's going to get sucked into your turbo compressor housing and will destroy your turbo.

Can you link to a picture of the intake you bought?
 
ya so pretty much what he is saying that your intake isnt the problem, something might not be connected did you check to make sure the three hoses that come off the intake are hooked up?
 
sorrny nevermind you did check those maybe something happend to your maf during the install that would make it cut uot.
 
As long as you have the port on top where the recirculation tube from the BOV goes, you're all set. You don't need anything extending down into the intake on an aftermarket intake. Take the PVC out and and you should notice things are better. Make sure no JBWeld residue is left behind to flake off and get sucked up.

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ok i took out dump tube, rechecked the MAF all vac lines and it ran great for a day, now it stalled again this morning! i dont know whats wrong? what could make it violently cut out ??? and jolt like this ? as far as i can tell the MAF is good ?
 
Please don't bump your posts. It's against the site rules.

Do a boost leak test. Make sure the MAF is completely plugged in. Check the turbo for shaft play. Take the car to an auto parts store that will read any trouble codes for you. Check your spark plugs and plug wires.

What else is it doing wrong? Try to be as specific as possible when describing the problem.
 
I just wanted to say that i also bought an ebay air intake and ended up taking it off becuase of boost leaks. Now my stock air intake is back on and my car sometimes stalls when im driving... idk why this is happening all of the sudden? Sounds alot like his problem. Idk if maybe taking the intakes off did something to our cars? My car never used to stall before i messed with it or when i had the ebay intake on it. then when i went back to the stock it stalls and idles real low.. like below 500 sometimes until it stalls itself. And i just replaced my plugs.My wires look fairly new.
 
ok,well nevermind then. i think i will just go buy a wrx again, or a srt-4 this dsm and mitsu's are just to much of a headache! thanks though guys !
 
famouz13 said:
ok,well nevermind then. i think i will just go buy a wrx again, or a srt-4 this dsm and mitsu's are just to much of a headache! thanks though guys !


with all due respect this event had nothing to do with the car, it was completely installer error. Not trying to be rude, but don't blame the car here.
 
famouz13 said:
ok i took out dump tube, rechecked the MAF all vac lines and it ran great for a day, now it stalled again this morning! i dont know whats wrong? what could make it violently cut out ??? and jolt like this ? as far as i can tell the MAF is good ?


sounds like Fuel Cut ...

Why would you hack the Mass Air Sensor when your stock ? Do you have a AFC or anything else to support hacking the MAS ?
 
Guys, hang on... settle down... read the posts more carefully.

PCV= white plastic pipes you buy at Home Depot and put under your sink.
PVC= Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve.

He didn't "hack" the MAF, he "rechecked" the MAF.

I agree that sudden jolting sounds like fuel cut, but fuel cut shouldn't cause the car to stall. As I said before, famouz needs to be more specific as to what conditions these problems occur during: idle, start-up, WOT, highway driving, low-speed cruising, etc, as well as what the car does when it's NOT having problems, such as low idle/high idle, hard start-up, excessive turbo lag, etc.

clipsedrag: an intake pipe shouldn't have caused any boost leaks at all as long as all the vacuum lines were hooked up, seeing as the intake tube is BEFORE boost.
 
ok, ill try and be more specific. The car, when you start it up and let it warm up, is a little laggish and feels like the turbo doesnt want to boost, or build boost right away"as it should being how small the t-25 is",and yes i know boost kicks in at like 2500 to 3000, at least on my ca. As for WOT, sometimes it cuts out on the freeway just getting to speed ,i am however flooring it "WOT", none of this happened before my intake install.I didnt hack the MAF as for parts all thats on the car i have, intake downpipe exhaust bov. i have a 16g turbo, godspeed fmic, apexi safc2, blitz dual SBC boost controller, 550cc injectors, walboro 195hp pumpand a hks turbo timer sitting at home in my living room. But shit if a intake is this much hassel then i dont want to do all thoes others, im not a "noob contrary to my profile. i know everything is hooked up roght im just stumped ! so thats my rant and rave ! LOL take it for what you will
 
This is what happens... when i start my car sometimes and only sometimes it refuses to idle. Then oher times it idles fine. It stalls sometimes when going to a lower rpm to turn corner but not often. My car sometimes spits black carbon too... Idk i didnt think putting an air intake would f this thing up so much. What i think happened is when i pulled the negative on my battery i reset something. When i recently got my clutch done they broke my speed sensor and when i unplugged my battery, i may have made my car check all the sensors upon hooking my battery back up and now my car is acting funny because it realizes the speed sensor is broke? OR i need new wires or my isc is messed up. It said on vfaq that it was my speed sensor most likely which is weird because mine is broken. But i havent heard anybody mention the speed sensor as the culprit in any of the forums ive looked at. Any suggestions?
 
Sure, 10psi or so is normal for a T25, but what if you're leaking boost and the turbo is spinning faster to make up for that difference? In other words, what if the turbo is making 17 psi and 7 psi is leaking? It's best to do a real boost leak test to be sure than to just say "I don't think it's leaking" like so many people have and then are surprised by the results.
 
I just installed an EBAY intake on my uncle's GS-T. It's the injen look a like. Only other mod on the car is a real Greddy Type S. It runs great and there is no problem like you guys described. So don't be hasty on giving up and blaming the car all together. Threatning to get a WRX or SRT-4 was quite entertaining.

Anyways a lot of people have been giving suggestions on what it maybe. You should follow their advice. As I will give the same, IF the intake was installed correctly, that shouldnt be the problem. If you still believe that it might be the case, double check your install. The way you described it, it sounds like the connector for the MAS was not plugged in, but you stated you did. Double check that. Do a boost leak test like everybody is recommending. What is your VAC reading on idle?

Also what spark plugs and what gap and spark plug wires are you running? There are some cases where previous owner who didn't care for modding these cars just threw in whatever spark plugs when maintenance comes around. Meaning throwing in some iridium plugs in there. It runs ok stock, then when mods come to play it runs like crap. This was the case on a few cars that were stock then put mods on then when flooring it it bucked and ran like crap. Change of the plugs to some ngk bpr7es and some better wires made it run like it should.
 
I have ngk 7es in my car and i havent checked the wires but they're magnecores so idk if they're ok or not. Honestly im not quite sure how to check my wires. Im thinking its just my speed sensor... does that sound right? My maf is plugged in all the way. I think its maf right?
 
clipsedrag, unless you're running some crazy boost on an upgraded turbo, you really shouldn't have any need for 7es plugs. Go back down to BPR6ES's and see if that helps. You could be fouling out your plugs because they're running too cold. In addition, do you have an AFPR to control that 255lph fuel pump in your profile? If not, chances are you're running extremely rich, which probably wouldn't help the situation.
 
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