"Stage 1" - What brands to buy?

[al1dere]

Okay, so i've been working on dsm's for 3 years, owned one for 2, and been happily driving it around stock, when it decides to cooperate. It's been down more than half the time i've owned it, because lack of time and money. Now i have the time and money, so i've decided to replace all of the suspension, brakes and do the "stage 1" modifications (which i combined from the dsmtuners and buschur racing tech. info). Except i'm holding out with the exhuast parts, because i'm going to learn how to weld and purchase all the exhaust parts together. After the exhaust is finished I plan to continue with "Stage 2". I've read sooo much, but still can't come to a solution on certain parts and brands.

I have a 93' Eagle Talon TSi AWD.

Here is a list of things I've already decided on/bought:
ACT 2600 Kit
ACT Flywheel
SS Clutch Line
SFI Approved Scattershield
Brembo Slotted/Dimpled Rotors
Eibach Pro-kit
SS Brake Lines
Axxis Metal Master Pads for the rear
EBC Green Stuff pads for the front (bought it a long time ago, don't want to throw them out)

Here's a list of stuff I can't decide about what brand to buy:
Shocks/Struts
Sway bar
BOV
Boost Controller
Short Shifter
Walbro 225 (what's the difference between the 225 and 225 high pressure)
FMIC

Any and all info. would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dorene
a.k.a Dsm chic26

 

[skinnyt]

Shocks/Struts:kyb fully adjustable and eibach 1inch lowering springs
Sway bar:http://www.andysautosport.com/produ...ake=Mitsubishi&mcat=Suspension&scat=Sway Bars
BOV:greddy type rs
Boost Controller:i got the one of ebay and it works good
fuel pump:Walbro 225
FMIC:well thats all up to u if u run stock pipe replace but if u gonna run front intercooler then its all up to u

 

[pianoman]

I wouldn't go with the Type RS bov, unless they have the recirculation kit out for it. Also I wouldn't bother with dimple rotors, either get the slotted or drilled. I personally have used brembo crossdrilled rotors with axxis metal master pads, and it made a HUGE diffrence over the stock brakes, but theres lots of talk about whether or not cross drilled/slotted are even needed on street cars.

They say the front sway bar is decently sized on the awd's and only the rear is needed. I have read about a number of people that have had bad experience with using KYB AGX stuts and lowering springs. Although I would think that you can get away with a 1inch drop for a decent amount of time before they would blow out. Pilot short shifters are crap. I would think the Fidianza ones would be better quality.

Here is the diffrence between the 255 and the 255HP:

http://roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumpflowrates.htm

I like my home depot boost controller, its cheap and does the job quite well, infact its out lasted my buddys manual boost controller he got from a shop. I have a cheap strut tower bar, it was 40 bucks its not pretty but I did notice a diffrence with the front end being tighter. Its up to you if you want one with a fancy name or multicolored. I had a CUSCO strut tower bar for my 3rd gen prelude which was much nicer then the ones they make for 1g's. It was all one solid peice except for a adjustable nut in the center. My only complaint with the dsm strut tower bars is how they connect at the ends.

As far as getting a front mount, that is very dependent on what kind of HP goals you have. Hows your transmission? Have you swapped your fluids? What about the condition of the motor? You mentioned you've had trouble with the car in the past. One thing you don't have listed is a datalogger. I would highly suggest getting one. Hope this helps.

 

[skinnyt]

I wouldn't go with the Type RS bov, unless they have the recirculation kit out for it.
please u dont need recirculation thats for pu#%y*...as for everything else ur right to a point. still recirculation.........get a life.everyone in here talks about that wow u loose a tenth of a second if you dont recirculate whoop t do.

 

[BaddAssGst]

I wouldn't go with the Type RS bov, unless they have the recirculation kit out for it.
please u dont need recirculation thats for pu#%y*...as for everything else ur right to a point. still recirculation.........get a life.everyone in here talks about that wow u loose a tenth of a second if you dont recirculate whoop t do.

you my friend, have no idea what your talking about, none absolutely. venting doesn't only make your car slower, but it will make your car run like shit. unless your car is set-up to vent, it is not suggested. granted there are some people who have no trouble venting, but it's pointless. do what you want, it's your car, but don't come on here and ask questions about why your car dies out or why your not fast anymore.

botton line.. don't post useless information if you have no idea what your talking about.

 

[pianoman]

OK-

"please u dont need recirculation thats for pu#%y"

Please inform me. Cause you obviously know somthing that 99% of this and every other dsm board doesn't know.

 

[Eclipsei95cl]

I wouldn't go with the Type RS bov, unless they have the recirculation kit out for it.
please u dont need recirculation thats for pu#%y*...as for everything else ur right to a point. still recirculation.........get a life.everyone in here talks about that wow u loose a tenth of a second if you dont recirculate whoop t do.

Oh God..

Dont listen to him do a simple search on BOVs or even look at the "Top ten FAQs" on here and you will see why you shouldnt vent to the atmosphere. I used to vent and my car will generally stall and have other issues. If your going for a mild street setup go with the Greddy Type-S but I think the 1g BOV should be enough for your needs. Im not sure if you plan on upgrading your turbo or not so im really not sure what FMIC to recommend to you. Get the Walbro 255 high pressure its like 5 dollars more why not get the one that offers more? B&M short Shifters seem to be popular among the 5-speed DSMers. For a boost controller just about anything will do.

-Steve

 

[pianoman]

B&m is for 2g's only.

 

[skinnyt]

Oh God..

Dont listen to him do a simple search on BOVs or even look at the "Top ten FAQs" on here and you will see why you shouldnt vent to the atmosphere. I used to vent and my car will generally stall and have other issues.

-Steve

yeah thats you with issues but im good to go here with type-rs and type-s and factory setup venting to the atmosphere iv checked them all out! {BOVs or even look at the "Top ten FAQs" on here}so you believe everything you read ...

 

[Eclipsei95cl]

B&m is for 2g's only.

Well, I see disregard my B&M statement then. Im really not sure which short shifter is good for a 1g. I drive a 2nd gen and its automatic :laugh: So my knowledge on 5spd 1gs are limited

Skinnyt have you been venting since you've owned the car?

 

[pianoman]

And al1dere, don't listen to skinnyt.

Your mass air flow sensor is located in your filter. Inside it has two honeycomb type items. These honeycombs create little vortexs' and it sees how much air is coming in. So the ecu does some math and figures out how much fuel will be needed to mix with the air. The ecu also knows that some of that air will be bypassed from the bov and back into the intake.

SO if you let that air vent to the atmosphere, you have the ecu adding fuel for air that is not there. You are now currently running rich. Not only that but your car will run as good as a zebra with no legs. Unless you upgrade to a full standalone system or a GM Maft, venting on a dsm is a big NO.

Some cars can do it, mainly 2g's more then 1g's but even so. My buddy had a 95 that couldn't vent for the life of the car. My 90 tsi on the other hand, I had no bov return tube, as I had an aftermarket 3inch intake and made my own tube out of the stocker. It blew off on the street somwhere. So for about 2 weeks, I vented since I couldn't get my hands on another stock return tube, and neither Lowes or Menards or Homedepot had correct tubing. My car although it didn't stall when coming to a stop, it popped flames left and right, and killed my 02 sensor. There was a night and day diffrence between venting and running it correctly. So, unless you have a GM Maft, or you just want to make your car run like crap, don't vent.

 

[skinnyt]

well im venting and its all good here with a 14b turbo at (15psi)with greddy type-rs...
the only thing that i did diff was change the ecu cause when i got the car the ecu was dead so i got one off ebay.

 

[pianoman]

Have you tried recirculating?

 

[Eclipsei95cl]

Ok lets say your venting and your car is fine. So your telling everyone they should vent because you are all good?

 

[skinnyt]

well no thats what i tryin to say.well a greddy type -rs is the sh*t and yes you can recirculate it with the commin since of puttin the right hose or fitting on it and maken it work iv done that on other dsm's...as well as mine.iv tried many diff things on my dsm and my freinds mr2

 

[Thomas91169]

please u dont need recirculation thats for pu#%y*...

spoken by a true n00b. read up and learn. while venting more than likely wont affect 1/4 mile times, it will affect your plugs(running rich during times of no throttle, as in during a shift) and countless other things. most cars are unable to run while venting, some will run but run like ass, and others have no problems(that they can tell) at all. i tried venting and it ran fine, idled fine and whatnot. but that was only on weekends to scare the ricers.

shocks/struts - eibach 1-1.5" kit and some sort of adjustable shock have always been a good setup. thats what ill go with, prolly with tokiko shocks.

BOV - greddy type s is a crowd favorite, since its easily recirculated. though i think theyre discontinued. if the greddy RS has the recirc kit then id go with that.

Sway Bar - theres lots of vendors that sell them.

FMIC - i bought a ebay fmic and made my own piping kit, cost me 300 and does the same exact thing as what others paid close to 1000 for.

255lph Walbro - with any 255 youre going to need a adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. the B&M one will not work(you need one that allows you to turn DOWN the pressure to keep it either 43psi for a 2g, or 38 for a 1g)

Short Shifter - i have the obx short throw. its not as short as i hoped but when you break the stock one you dont have much of a choice when you need a car and it needs more than 1st gear. my buddy has the B&M one and i think i might upgrade later, its a "real" short throw.

 

[skinnyt]

so i jump the gun....(read up and learn)yes i have read up and learnd and im good to go cause i know what im doin not like some peps that say im a noob.iv been workin on cars since i was 14 years old im 31 now i know what the hell im talkin bout...yes some peps run like crap some dont it depends whats been done to your car as far as the topic that was org posted hes good to go. just needs fuel injectors. just cause you cant vent dont mean others cant ,just givin point of veiw,you never now.




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and anyway a bov is only for what it says (blow off vavle)so if your car so called runs crapy... you got other probs my freind

 

[Jackyll]

BOV - my 1g one works perfect for what I'm using it for (sounds good too if you're into that thing)

Shocks/Struts - Most people will probably tell you to go with Koni Yellows if you're going to get separate shocks and springs. I didn't have the money for them and got an awesome deal on a set of Tokico Illuminas, and they haven't disappointed me. But I'll probably end up getting a Tein setup down the road after school.

Boost Controller - I also get a manual one off ebay for like $15 shipped. Also hasn't let me down since i got it about a year ago.

As for the FMIC, I've been reading a lot lately, since it'll be one of my next things to pick up, and it seems like it all depends on what you're willing to get rid of, what you want to hold on too, and how big you want to go.

Everything else - I have the same questions myself

 

[Eclipsei95cl]

just cause you cant vent dont mean others cant ,just givin point of veiw,you never now.

This is and example so, I can kinda make you understand where we are coming from, these percentages probably arent too accurate but an estimate. About 95% of the people on this site ethier recirculate or vent properly. The other 5% just vent unproperly and of that 5% more than half, there cars run like shit. So with those percentages your saying just vent improperly and the odds of your car running good is 100%? Based on the fact you say "I do it and have no problems" or you hooked a BOV on a few other cars? Look who your asking here real dsmtuners from around the country and were all saying dont vent unless you have the proper setup to do so. How do you know your car really is not being held back because your not recirculating? But you think its all fine when really your car is not performing like it should. Try recirculating see how it improves if its the same then your the other half 5% that are venting improper with no problems.

Ethier way theres like 5 people against your venting idea in this thread so im sure the original poster will know what to do.

 

[95undrpsi]

I would go with a HKS BOV they sound sweet, but have a delay when opening. I you want to go a little bit cheaper than go with a greddy type S. As for the front mount look around and then research.

 

[al1dere]

Okay, so back to my original questions...brands?

~I'm going to get the Walbro 225 high pressure fuel pump (i'll be getting the regulator in "stage 2")

~As for the BOV, i read through the reviews and greddy type s does seem to be the more popular one, HKS was being questioned alot, saying that their cars stalled a lot. TurboXS Type H-34 and Turboxs h-rbv, were the more recommended, didn't have a "ricer sound" and can be put up with for a daily driver, which is what i am looking for.

~For the shocks and struts, i was looking into the tokico illuminas, unless someone can suggest something better for around the same price range.

~FMIC, i'm going to hold off on until i decide which turbo i'm going to get during "stage 2"

~Boost controller, I'll save my money from getting the electronic one, and find a cheap manual one that'll take care of the job.

~Short shifter- still undecided on the brand...

So what short shifter and bov should i get?

thanks guys,
dorene a.k.a dsm chic26

p.s I just went to a car auction this morning and won myself a manual 90' eclipse gs turbo for $200!!! I had to share my exciting news. (i couldn't understand the announcer yelling out for bids, didn't realize my car was up, started at $1,500 *still looking around confused...announcer kept bringing the price down and then to $100, my bf hit me and told me to raise my hand *still trying to understand what the annoucer was saying, put my hand up and won it for $200!!!)

 

[spades_gsx]

1g bov is perfect, I have one on my 2g. if you are running a fuel pump that big you might want to get a fuel pressure regulator. just make sure you can raise and lower the pressure. datalogger, and a boost gauge. I know your main question was "what brand should I..." it is a toss up between brands. For example I chose an all Buschur exhaust, Buschur uicp, 1gbov, hallman pro boost controller and sbr 3500 clutch. the only name brands are my boost gauge which is an Apexi, and my air filter which is a k&n. you can make your own choice. just read ALOT ask alot of questions and you will decide whats best for you and your budget. besides there will always be mixed opinions and the occasional know it all..... cough skinnyt cough...... who thinks just because they work on cars they think they know how dsms work.

 

[Quasimondo]

All BOV's have a ricer sound as far as I'm concerned. Your stock BOV is good up to 20 psi. I've been able to hold around 23 psi with mine before it's forced open.

As far as brakes go, I'd start with just EBC pads and stainless lines. 92-94 front calipers are dual piston so I don't see any reason to change them out. Same goes for the rotors unless you plan on going on road courses, and even then I wouldn't replace them unless you experiene brake fade problems. No need to replace what's already good, right?

As far as a boost controller goes, either a Joe P or Hallman MBC is the way to go. Easy to use, rock solid reliability, and none of that fuzzy logic crap that you have to deal with when you use an EBC. It's not like you're going to be constantly adjusting the boost levels, are you?

No matter which walbro 255 pump you use, you're going to need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, especially with the 255 high pressure. Both pumps are too much for the stock regulator to handle. Don't get that B&M CommandFlo crap, get a real regulator, like one from Aeromotive or SX.

If you're going to fabricate your own exhaust, then you can do the same for intake piping and rid yourself of that painfully restrictive upper intercooler pipe. You also should look into changing out the stock MAS for a 2g MAS as well as a piggyback fuel controller.

BTW, are you planning on sticking with the stock turbo?