Spraypainting valve cover..bubbles getting all over??

[Scrymerr]

oh and by the way, dont use any grease or oil based solvents... the best one you can find is called KAR-SOL and they sell that at your local paint and autobody stores get that if you want to do it right... i think its about 8$ for a gallon and there is no grease or oil basing in it... think about it this way.. if oil is bad, why would you smear grease or oil back on it when you already took all that time to sand all the oil off??? that just doesnt make sense so anyone that tells you to use oil based solvents will cause you to have massive fisheyes ... take my word for it get the KAR-SOL it will make your job easy and it will be done right...

Because oil based solvents remove certain contaminants better than waterbased and vise versa.

 

[sk8shorty01]

yeah and you are just wiping oil across the valve cover which is what you are trying to take off... i use KAR-SOL thats what you need to use... i do this everyday, and im telling you that is by far the best thing for prepping anything for paint (other than sandpaper of course)... hope that works for you... if you spend the money on it, be well worth it. it will look nice and you will be happy knowing that you painted it right and it looks how it is supposed to... i understand that solvents are better and worse at removing things, but either way oil based solvents are bad news if you are painting.. take it from my own experience... paint is very easily contaminated... did you know that someone using silicone a full mile away from where you are painting can make your paintjob fisheye??? thats why you need a good air handling system in your paintbooth or you are gonna get a lot of messed up paintjobs...

 

[Scrymerr]

yeah and you are just wiping oil across the valve cover which is what you are trying to take off... i use KAR-SOL thats what you need to use... i do this everyday, and im telling you that is by far the best thing for prepping anything for paint (other than sandpaper of course)... hope that works for you... if you spend the money on it, be well worth it. it will look nice and you will be happy knowing that you painted it right and it looks how it is supposed to... i understand that solvents are better and worse at removing things, but either way oil based solvents are bad news if you are painting.. take it from my own experience... paint is very easily contaminated... did you know that someone using silicone a full mile away from where you are painting can make your paintjob fisheye??? thats why you need a good air handling system in your paintbooth or you are gonna get a lot of messed up paintjobs...

I read what you said the first time, am very aware of the affects of oilbased and waterbased wax and grease removers, their affects and so on. I have done my share of painting and prep, and understand the pros and cons to both. When using an oil based wax and grease remover, you should not get any fisheyes because of it, unless you are using it incorrectly. I understand you like this karsol stuff, but that does not mean that it is the only product that will work.

Dan

 

[sk8shorty01]

well im not telling you that you HAVE to use it, but from my experience painting cars, which i do it for a living almost every weekend, KAR-SOL is the best thing i have found to prep a car with because it does not have the oily feel after you wipe the car down. You can even use laquer thinner if you want, it doesnt really matter but from my trial and error i have found this to be the most consistant for prepping correctly... If you like using oil based solvents then thats fine, im not telling you that you are stupid or anything (after all it is your own decision) im just trying to give some direction from a "professional" (doing it for a living) point of view. If you dont want to use it then you dont have to, but in my opinion it is the best stuff on the market... Good luck with all your painting, hope you get rid of those fisheyes... post some pics when you get it done

 

[Rip90laser]

What i did on my old turbo mustang. Was took a die grinder and a wire wheel give it a nice polished look and cleaned it well. Then pick up that cherry power gel de greaser that stuff works wonders. I actually used Fast Orange hand cleaner and soaked everything down in it and then scrubbed it hard with brushes and took it to the local car wash and power washed it. I got some goofy looks but it worked on the block oil pan valve cover and all that. I also shot it with primer and grabber green engine enamel worked like a charm flawless

 

[sk8shorty01]

thanks not a bad idea

 

[AgntorangeDSM]

i would have to go with Scrymerr because there are many different agents to use to degrease, i mean i posted the one i have the best luck with and it's also the one that all the body shops in my local area uses, and you guys both have yours that work just as good so theres clearly more than one product to use here!

 

[devlish]

another way to get the grease & oil that's soaked into the metal out is to bake it out. after you've got it all cleaned up, put it in the oven for a bit. 10-15mins at 300' or so should bake out most of the oils that have soaked into the metals. i do this BEFORE i powdercoate metal to make sure it is absolutely clean. just be forewarned that your kitchen will STINK! i've got an oven in my garage just for this purpose!

also, as for spraying that paint on carboard OJ container or whatever, not a good comparision. the cardboard will soak up the paint and lay smooth, the metal won't. so not really a good comparision.

i agree with the rest though, try letting it dry REALLY good, 48hrs or so, then scuff with 400-600 and try repainting. if it bubbles again, re sandblast and get a good high-temp primer and try again. or just PC it and be done with it!

good luck man, it can be a PITA if ya end up redoing something a few times... we've ALL been there.

 

[Red Recluse]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217551

There is the valve cover job I just did on mine... I still need to attach the clearcoat pictures, but it came out beautiful. I'm currently going to school at a technology center for paint and body work so I guess I'll post a writeup for yall..

 

[AgntorangeDSM]

AH yea nothing like a stinky kitchen for your DSM love! ha ha that is another great way to get grease off man!

 

[Mik]

Everyones mention the grease and dirt, but what about the air temp in the room your spraying the part in or the the part temp it self? Dont forget moisture too. I get this effect alot out here in Washington when its A. A dirty part B.)Way to Moist (like I'm spraying in a garage or somthing and its Rainy) C. To Cold (either the part or atmospherically). Besides get the part powder coated you can get a kit for powder coating from these guys called hot coat: http://eastwood.resultspage.com/sea...800&&isort=score&w=powder coating kit&rk=1and bake it with a house hold oven, you'll be much happer with the results. Just don't get it polished out like I did its a nightmare to keep clean and looking good.

 

[Kevin Klapwijk]

I would get it polished professionally before you paint it. The good thing about polish is that you can never have too much of it

 

[dammitblnk182]

I say sand all the old paint off and retry it cus maybe the old paint and the new paint isn't compatable....it's happen to me on a r/c car body. Either that or get new paint. Thats my .02

Don't use spray paint, it won't hold up to the engine 's temperatures. I suggest buying heat resistant engine paint. You can buy it for 5 bucks at walmart, autozone, and O'Reillys or any other auto store. It works well with heat. Also you can paint other engine parts.

 

[devlish]

Don't use spray paint, it won't hold up to the engine 's temperatures. I suggest buying heat resistant engine paint. You can buy it for 5 bucks at walmart, autozone, and O'Reillys or any other auto store. It works well with heat. Also you can paint other engine parts.

well, that stuff your talking about for $5 at Walmart IS spray paint also. just higher temp spray paint. and YES the high temp stuff will work fine if you properly prep the peice you are painting.

 

[Attack Eagle]

hmm. sounds to me like a bad can, or as mentioned solvents flashing to the surface due to inadequate drying before the next coat.

When I did mine a few weeks ago I first cleaned it (I am totally opposed to sandblasting engine parts unless you are using baking soda (water solvent) medium) with scotch brite pads & degreaser + hot water in the kitchen sink (i have an understanding wife) then with soap and water and a scotchbrite. I then baked it in the oven for a few minutes and cleaned it again the same way. I used the dremel to clean up and smooth the surface, then degreased washed, soaped and wash again, then dried it in the oven. Then I used denatured alcohol to clean it.

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ONce it was warm enough the next morning I sat it in the sun for a few minutes to warm and sprayed it and the other stuff (i/c pipes, 1g water pipe, and return line) and sprayed them with duplicolor engine paint in satin black following the directions in the can as regards second coats.

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I wanted a more textured look on the valve cover so I shot the very last coat as just a dusting on the valve cover from too far away to accomplish this.

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the results had No problems with adhesion even on the Powdercoated lower i/c pipes.

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