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Special requirements for megasquirt

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FRslimmyjim

10+ Year Contributor
144
2
Dec 28, 2010
warwick, New York
Hey guys,

I am going megasquirt and there are just so many options. I am going to get a megasquirt 3 and I am going to build it myself. I have a 96 eclipse with 8.6-1 comp wiseco pistons, fully ported head, 72mm precision turbo, etc. I want to run 880cc injectors to hit around 400hp. I have been working on this goal for almost 2 years now. I have seen that their are different options depending on the engine. I would like to know exactly everything I needs to get for my 420a so I don't miss anything. Should I get the MS3X board? Thanks guys for your help!
 
I think the ms3x has a few more features, as well as sequential injection circuits built in, so it depends on how/and what you want it to do.
You need these v
GM Closed Element CLT / IAT Sensor with Connector DIYAutoTune.com
GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Connector DIYAutoTune.com

A rising rate 1:1 fuel pressure regulator like this or similar v
Aeromotive#|#13129 - EFI Bypass Regulator

For tuning your gonna need
EFI Analytics TunerStudio | tunerstudio.com

Also read and familiarize your self with this v
http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

Oh almost forgot, is it going to be standalone or parallel to the oem ecu?

I feel like there is a bunch of stuff that I am leaving out but I will post them when I remember :)
 
Look at all the options MS also offers, launch control, fan control, boost control, Meth/nitrous. Figuring out what you want the ECU to do before you build it will help you organize your outputs and you can go ahead and order the parts needed for each mod the same time you order your MS stuff. Also if your going to run sequential injection you will need a cam sensor input.

I recommend ditching the stock ECU completely and running everything off MS. Its a good bit more work but well worth it in the end.
 
It's not a question of if he can do it most ~70mm turbos are 90-95+ lb/min rated, this was more of an insight into where there may be some other discrepancies in the build and the thought process or lack thereof which lead to that choice.

This is a turbo (if actually 72mm inducer) that likely wont light off till nearly 6k, and I see no mention of cam/springs.. so a few hundred rpm on boost and its time to shift again.
 
2gnt you can use the stock iat and coolant sensors if you run MS standalone.

^ Yes, for some reason I seem to be stuck on the idea that everyone lives in NC, and they want to pass inspection without having to swap all the wiring back to stock.

Even with a standalone MS I guess you could still swap back over for inspection time with just a little more effort :)
 
I have a small hot side on the turbo. I'm pretty sure it is .43 and I have crower springs and retainers and crower forced induction cams nd I have AEM 5 bolt adjustable cams. Oversized valves aswell. Soon there won't be anything stock on this car haha. I am definitely thinking of going full standalone. I don't mind the extra work. I love this stuff. I have ways of passing inspection so I don't really need to worry about that. Thanks everyone for the help. You guys are always awesome. The more the better!!
 
be prepared to have a fun time tuning the stepper..IF you plan on DD the car, go stepper, if not, use a manual Idle valve..
 
Okay. I am planning on DD the car. I have a stupid question haha. I need to put jumper wires in and I was wondering what kind of wire to use? What gauge wire? Thanks guys. I am starting to feel like I am in over my head by a long shot.
 
'Glowryder' tuning the idle stepper isnt that hard its more of getting the PID sittings correct. its mostly the 'P' and 'I' settings that you mess with and leave the 'D' setting at 0.

To the OP if you have experience soldering then you'll do just fine as long as you follow the directions as to construct the board
 
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