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sound a little like valve tapping(video)

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sqz24

Probationary Member
12
0
Feb 18, 2008
spencer, Massachusetts
My cars has had a ticking sound for around 2.5months 3,000 miles origonally thought it was the lash adjusters, replaced them with the evo3 ones no change yesterday i reopened the valve cover checked for play on the rocker arms couldnt find anything replaced valve cover gasket did a compression check starting on the passengers side cylenders read 151 150 150 150 "tapping" seems to be coming from the second piston in from the passengers side dont seem to have power loss like i stated it has been this way for a while. the noise started before the C.O.P. ,exhaust manifold, o2 dumptube, catch can, and turbo outlet pipe were installed(ordered them 2 days brefore tapping started.) I am running NGK brp6e plugs they looked really good when out of car yesterday. car idles at 800-850 rpm vacume/boost gauge shows a steady 18/19 pounds at idle, oil pressure at idle is between 15 and 20 pounds 45-50 at highway speeds
since i bought the car i have used castrol syntec. 10w30. Car has 108k on it
the car is a 95 gst 5 speed no anti lock brakes and a/c compressor was off the car when i bought so i just removed rest of the system.
any suggestions or help with be welcomed.
 
Without actually hearing it, it is very difficult to diagnose, since you just replaced the oil with castrol its a little hard to believe it would be the lifters, Does it get any quieter after the motor warms up or driving it for a while, or does it do it all the time just as loud.
 
My car sounds the exact same. Its been doing this for almost a year, Ive always assumed it was the stock 2g lifters, waiting to get enough oil pressure...which is why it may take it a minute or 2 to go away. My car also has 108k miles also. Hopefully its just your lifters.
 
Ok well he PMed me saying that it does not quiet down any after it warms up, actually he also said that in the post that he shared the videos in you must have missed that or something, that noise sounds horrible, but I am not really sure what it is, anyone have any ideas... I mean you would think that something that loud absolutely has to be either rod knock or a VERY bad lifter... but I would like to see what somebody more experienced has to say about it.
 
Well I would like to post that I am in the process of doing a 6bolt swap and the 2g that I bought had a crankwalked motor and it only spun a bearing.

At idle the crankwalked motor actually purred and sounded very quiet, you couldnt even tell there was a problem.... I really have no idea what that sound is.

just curious have you pulled the upper timing belt cover to take a look and double check the car is still in time?
 
Jake,
No i have not checked the timing. LOL last time i checked timing it was on a 83 monte carlo ss. Are there timing marks on the cam gears? the intake gear is a factory adjustable?
 
The marks on the cams should look like this, perfectly aligned with each other and the surface of the cylinder head, then there is also a timing mark underneath the lower timing cover, you have to remove the crackshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) and then remove the lower timing cover for that mark. You could start by just checking the cam pulleys though because thats easy enough and if they are wrong then you will need to put the whole thing back in time by aligning the marks.

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I noticed it the picture you posted the exhaust cam has the timing mark between 2 teeth.
Mine are both on the teeth and my intake cam is adjustable.
I will turn the crank over the weekend to see how the cam gears line up with the crank.
with out lining up the marks they look pretty good.
 
Sorry Here is the picture.
 

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Hey, the intake gear isnt adjustable, im pretty sure it has something to do with the ignition timing. But your cam gears should look exactly like jakegaisser's picture; the exhuast mark is between two teeth and the intake mark is on only one tooth. If not, u definitely need to remove the lower timing cover to check the cranks timing marks. Just make sure the engines No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke.
 
If you look at the picture of my gears the both have the timing mark on 1 tooth and both are in the 12 oclock position. just happened to end up in the 12 oclock position when i parked when i got home from work today
 
There are 2 marks per cam gear, an inner and an outer, the one I circled in green that has white paint on it has a corresponding mark that will also have white paint on it. they should line up PERFECTLY where i drew the straight green mark, just as in the picture above.

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Ok I'm following you guys now. I'll have to align the marks tomorrow after work. Hoping that is the problem but not counting on it do to the noise being centered around 1 cylinder will keep you informed.
Thank you
 
Well what brought me to timing was the possibility that you might have a valve that is kissing the piston a bit.

These motors are interference motors and if the timing is off the pistons can actually hit and bend the valves.
 
HEY!!! Do a freakin cylinder leak test--that will let u know for sure. Listen to me, do it, and please get back to me and let us know.

Oh, also, is your oil pressure low by any chance??
 
No oil pressure is is good. what happened was i was getting on the high way on a long steep on ramp and my waste gate actuator vacuum line came off and turbo spooled to 30+ pounds. (I play the radio too loud to hear any noises) later that day when i picked my daughters up (radio down) i noticed the sound. it has been that way for almost 4 months now. (use aftermarket vacuum/boost voltage and oil pressure gauges)
 
It might show on a compression check but then again it would depend on how badly the valve is not sealing... if its just bent enough to tap but still seals most of the way, then on the compression stroke there would still be enough compression to look good on a compression gauge.

A leak down test like 92nolatist was saying will let you know weather or not your valves are sealing correctly or not though.... I believe you need the engine rotated to a certain position when you do a leak down test, you want the position when the valves are closed, then if the air is still getting through (the hissing sound) then you know there is a problem.

I'll see if i can find a good tutorial for doing the leak down test with a air compressor and edit this post once i found it.
 
turbo spooled to 30+ pounds
OMG! OMG!OMG!

Thats not good. Well.....i hate to say it, but sounds like you spun a rod bearing from what i hear in the first video; although i could be wrong so dont take me too seriously until you get some more feedback by some more experienced guys.
 
Have you checked your fuel injectors or intake manifold gasket recently? I know from personal experience that a bad injector or a bad intake manifold gasket can sound just like that. Do a boost leak check to check the intake manifold gasket and try swapping injectors real quick if you have an extra set... Just a thought. :thumb:
 
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