Soon to have boost controller Questions

[preludeachris]

Just bought a new MBC its one of those 10 dollar ones of ebay I should have it by this weekend I looked up how to install one...seems to be straight forward. I was wondering do they really make that much difference? how do I know how many lbs. of boost im pushing on a manual one? Iv never messed with boost before some some tips and tricks of the trade would be appreciated thanks

 

[bryanwheat]

Just bought a new MBC its one of those 10 dollar ones of ebay I should have it by this weekend I looked up how to install one...seems to be straight forward. I was wondering do they really make that much difference? how do I know how many lbs. of boost im pushing on a manual one? Iv never messed with boost before some some tips and tricks of the trade would be appreciated thanks

IF you don't have an aftermarket boost gauge yet than don't install the boost controller. You have to be able to monitor it or else you will likely blow your engine.

 

[Mitch41]

Yes it can make a huge difference. Before you fit it I suggest you get a proper mechanical boost gauge. Also you should find out what the safe boost level is depending on your supporting mods.
Me, I'm running 15 pounds on my small 16g turbo. It seems reliable enough. With a fuel pump and rewire I think I would push it another 5 pounds myself.

 

[preludeachris]

ok I wondered about the boost gauge...I planned on getting one anyway.. think I can pick one up from the part store fairly cheap.... wouldn't I just be able to log and watch my boost from there?

PS I didnt really plan on going higher than 13 or 14 psi

 

[perk85]

Have you done the bcs mod yet? If you still have the t25 on your car i would do this mod first. I did this mod and now I am at about 12 psi. I could tell a small difference for sure. do the bcs mod if you don't have a boost gauge.

 

[maddogxx]

I also bought the ebay $15 mbc but have not installed it yet, so I am curious how well it works, maybe I will get around to hooking it up this weekend??

 

[gusu]

Turning up the boost means increasing the chance of rod knock on a unhealthy or less than healthy motor.

Turning up the boost also means leaning out if you don't have fuel mods for the boost you are running, or if you have a failing fuel system you will run lean sooner.

To avoid this you need two things, a wideband to monitor air fuel ratios and a boost controller to watch for boost creep, which will be caused from running a less restrictive exhaust or a cheap boost controller than is no longer functioning properly. Your cheap ebay boost controller has a higher chance of failing because of many many reasons. I will admit my cheap 5 dollar ebay boost controller has lasted for almost 4 years now, but it's playing a game Russian roulette with your motor.

Boost fluctuations can blow your motor just like a grenade.

Do yourself a favor get a GOOD wideband such as the AEM EUGO or the Inovate LC-1 if you plan on upgrading in the future and running real tuning software I'd suggest getting the LC-1 because it is much easier to working with ECMlink, but the AEM EUGO WILL work with ECMlink, a lot of people have problems getting it to work though.

As for a boost gauge I'd say the cheapest I would personally go with is a Prosport.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Turning up the boost means increasing the chance of rod knock on a unhealthy or less than healthy motor.

Rod Knock? Rod knock is caused by out of tolerance rod bearings, not turning up the boost. I think you thinking about engine knock, or pre ignition.

To the op. I would just spend the extra money on something a little bit better. I had a $12 ebay boost controller and it failed with very little use. They use a real shitty spring that is no better than a clicky pen spring.



EDIT: Sorry gusu, I re-read what you wrote. It made more sense the second time I read it. Forgive me, I'm only halfway through my morning cup of coffee

 

[preludeachris]

Turning up the boost means increasing the chance of rod knock on a unhealthy or less than healthy motor.

Turning up the boost also means leaning out if you don't have fuel mods for the boost you are running, or if you have a failing fuel system you will run lean sooner.

To avoid this you need two things, a wideband to monitor air fuel ratios and a boost controller to watch for boost creep, which will be caused from running a less restrictive exhaust or a cheap boost controller than is no longer functioning properly. Your cheap ebay boost controller has a higher chance of failing because of many many reasons. I will admit my cheap 5 dollar ebay boost controller has lasted for almost 4 years now, but it's playing a game Russian roulette with your motor.

Boost fluctuations can blow your motor just like a grenade.

Do yourself a favor get a GOOD wideband such as the AEM EUGO or the Inovate LC-1 if you plan on upgrading in the future and running real tuning software I'd suggest getting the LC-1 because it is much easier to working with ECMlink, but the AEM EUGO WILL work with ECMlink, a lot of people have problems getting it to work though.

As for a boost gauge I'd say the cheapest I would personally go with is a Prosport.

I have an mtxl WB already works great

as for the boost controller ill take my chances worst case is fails and i go back to stock boost setup

Ill make sure to monitor the knock and A/f when i put it in...like i said Im not planning on going any higher than maybe 13 psi

 

[T is for TURBO]

If I remember correctly, the stock waste gate should net you 14psi. At least mine did. No boost controller needed. Just loop the compressor nipple to the wastegate actuator.

 

[preludeachris]

If I remember correctly, the stock waste gate should net you 14psi. At least mine did. No boost controller needed. Just loop the compressor nipple to the wastegate actuator.

call me a worry wort but seems unsafe to me?

 

[bryanwheat]

call me a worry wort but seems unsafe to me?

What running the boost source line directly to the wastegate? There is nothing wrong with that, but it will give you less boost than what the car makes from the factory.

If I remember correctly, the stock waste gate should net you 14psi. IF you run the line directly to the wastegate it will be more like 10 psi.

 

[maddogxx]

If I remember correctly, the stock waste gate should net you 14psi. At least mine did. No boost controller needed. Just loop the compressor nipple to the wastegate actuator.

I ran this way on my stock turbo for a long while and consistantly pulled 11-12psi with no problems

 

[preludeachris]

damn..now I wish I wouldnt of spent that 20 bucks on the MBC.....

 

[Cj'srs]

Depending on the mods you have you will be able to go up in the boost a bit also depends on the tunning system you have. if you are not sure i would recomend you take it to a dsm shop

 

[LandoAWD]

as for the boost controller ill take my chances worst case is fails and i go back to stock boost setup

The worst thing that can happen is a rebuild.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Op looked like you jump the gun without searching enough. If you did the boost solenoid trick it should net you around 12-14 psi. I don't feel like cheapening out for important purposes like turbo vs ebay turbos and boost controllers. If you're worry about funds. The new design NXS boost controller works very well.

If I remember correctly, the stock waste gate should net you 14psi. At least mine did. No boost controller needed. Just loop the compressor nipple to the wastegate actuator.

Mine netted me 15psi with the bsc mod and a good solid greddy type s bov. But every car will be different.

 

[unplugged]

Get a boost gauge of good quality.

 

[perk85]

Op looked like you jump the gun without searching enough. If you did the boost solenoid trick it should net you around 12-14 psi. I don't feel like cheapening out for important purposes like turbo vs ebay turbos and boost controllers. If you're worry about funds. The new design NXS boost controller works very well.


Mine netted me 15psi with the bsc mod and a good solid greddy type s bov. But every car will be different.

exactly what i said its a free mod. I too have a greddy bov, the bcs mod and i run around 12-14 psi. and thats all i intend on running until i get link.injectors,and my 14b installed. I would much rather do the bcs mod and spend next to nothing to gain a few psi then blown money on a boost controller that will not support future mods. But that just my opinion and you know what those are like. hahaha

 

[Rikolas]

I would agree with getting a better boost controller and a good boost gauge. I have a Hallman Boost Controller with Prosport gauges. Works fine, but I hate the gauges. The lights sometimes switch and piss me off. I would go with the AEM digital gauges if you could afford it, or go all out with AEM tru-boost! But thats like $300

Edit: Also, a nice wideband is needed.

 

[Murci]

i know you're getting a MBC, but you can get AEM's Truboost. It's a two-fer, you get a gauge and a controller in one. Just to give you another option to think about.

 

[gusu]

I don't know if this remains true but the Joe P boost controllers used to be more accurate and eaiser to dial in than a hallman. At HALF the cost. This could be useful information for the future.