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2G So i spun a rod bearing on my crank and in my rod.

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ventorocket

Probationary Member
12
0
Dec 31, 2010
whitewood, SK, Canada
So i bought my car a year and a half ago with a newly rebuilt engine seemed to work fine drove the hell out of it got all the maintenance problems solved and one day my car 1995 eagle talon tsi awd AUTO started knocking as i pulled in the drive way. so i pulled it apart the rod bearing spun in the rod and on the crank all that was left was just a very thin bearing. but my question should i just fix my 7 bolt( new forged crank , modified 1g rods and evo9 pistons, new water pump and oil pump( i think this was the cullprit because to me th oil pressure seemed to low to my liking and the oil light would come on at idle sometimes i dont know if it was replaced when they rebuilt it.) balance shaft eliminator kit(long shaft). Or find a 6 bolt swap. I never had a problem with my crank walking and plus its auto so i dont see it walking
 
I'd rebuild it. 6 bolt swap is relatively overrated if you ask me, plus a new crank and rods (especially 1g/evo combo) won't be too hard or expensive to source.
 
I would go with 6bolt and thats what i've done with mine. Its gonna require equal amount of work with building the 6 and 7 bolts. with 6 being alittle more. But if you are gonna go that route with keeping the 7 bolts just get the later model 7bolt block with thrust washers(new design).

If there is no evidence of crankwalk then i would just redo your 7bolt
 
I was going to get the evo 9 1g parts from dsmgraveyard.com if i was going the 7 bolt way. i cant seem to find any good 6 bolts around here that are not dead yet.
 
If you are going to build a motor build a 6 bolt, If you just need a quick replacement find a used 7 bolt.
No sense in spending a lot of money on a 7 bolt and always have the crank to worry about.
 
One day a post like this will go without the "c" word. You can probably buy a running short block for cheap. If you are bent on rebuilding, then just rebuild your current block.

Next time your oil pressure light comes on, don't ignore it. You killed your car by not addressing that light. It should never be on, and that light truly is an "idiot" light. It is screaming at you "your crap is broken and needs attention now!"
 
One day a post like this will go without the "c" word. You can probably buy a running short block for cheap. If you are bent on rebuilding, then just rebuild your current block.

Next time your oil pressure light comes on, don't ignore it. You killed your car by not addressing that light. It should never be on, and that light truly is an "idiot" light. It is screaming at you "your crap is broken and needs attention now!"

Short Block = No head = No running

He could buy a running Longblock and swap it in and have no issues.
 
Considering that he is asking about a swap one would assume that would include a head. Any motor than has spun a bearing usually requires the head to be decked/cleaned and reassembled. Why spend the extra money at a machine shop when he can buy a longblock and not worry about it.

As with most people that work on cars, he could do it ass backwards and buy a short block, spend money that he didnt have to, and end up with the same shit.
 
If i were to do this 6 bolt block swap i would use 7 bolt head and a kiggly crank trigger so i dont need to go dsm link right away. and my head has only 30k on a rebuild.
 
I am currently rebuilding my 6 bolt. So this is fresh in my mind.

DSM went from a 6 bolt with oil squirters to a 7 bolt with no oil squirters, now the EVO engines have added oil squirters again. Magnus did a write up about their "fix" for the c word, it was to add oil squirters to a 7 bolt.

So installing my Manley pistons and looking at the oil rings. There are holes that go from the oil rings to the inside of the piston. I don't know how any oil would get on the piston skirts and oil rings with no oil squirters.

In my opinion this is enough of a reason to go 6 bolt.
 
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