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Smog Exempt (propane conversion) [Merged 4-8] LPG

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Why would you adapt the 1.8? Gotta find a way to control spark hhhmmmmmm. Just stick with the ecu, unless you dont want to then you pretty much loose that aspect of tuning. Idk why you would go back to the stone age an a distributor type ignition system,but it's ## choice. Let me know what you come up with, this whole propane thing is still pretty new to me.
have a nice weekend..........Peace out!
 
Propane is totally a do-able fuel. Now the problem is makeing it all come togethter. There are alot of vehicles out there using propane as a primary fuel source. Now There is a problem with climate though.. If you live in an are that gets down to 30 degrees farenheit. I would definatly think about putting in some kind of heater. If the propane getes down to that low of a temp it might not start your car. Thats where the heater comes in.
 
Propane is over 110 octane so it is alot cheaper then race gas.
 
But it doesnt have the same energy content as gasoline. Thus you have to inject more propane to equal the same amount of gasoline. Like you have to do with e85. But I also pse the question. Why? WTF
 
A lot of cabs run it here, I heard it's "dry", thats why you see a lot of the cabs smoking at times...
 
I'm just gonna throw this out there. Where i work we have two propane fueled forklifts. They have a four cylinder engine in them and they are SLOW. Granted they weigh 7,000 lbs. but still. And they smell bad. One's a mitsubishi by the way:thumb: I dont know much about the engine in them so i don't know how they would compare to a 4g63. Also in the winter they freeze up quickly if you leave them outside. If your going for more power run E85. It would be cheaper and it would be ALOT easier.
 
I don't know why he wants to run propane but it produces less emissions than gasoline.
 
Yes the octane rating for pure propane is 110. The air fuel ratio is 15.8:1. so yes you need a lil more fuel to run propane. most people are not running pure propane, they mix it with butane. now butane as a whole can run octane wise is 99-106. So if you mix it, will be cheaper per gallon but will knock down effectiveness of the octane you want.
 
Well the reason I am wanting to run propane is because I am looking for an alternative fuel that hopefully wont go up to 7 dollars a gallon in the near future. I can also run alot more boost then with premium pump fuel since I wont run race gas. This is for a truck also and it will be offroad and propane has alot of advantages offroad (lower idle, runs at any angle, ect). It also helps by being a green fuel and you only have to change your oil every 7 to 10k miles. I was going to run my 4g63t in the truck, but then changed my mind to put a 22rte in so I could run propane and boost it. Then I started looking into the 22rte and the thing doesnt make power worth a shit (shitty head design) I bet a similar 4g makes 100 more horsepower with the same boost ect. I also have all the 4g63 stuff already and have had DSM's for awhile so I know the kind of power they can make. So if there were a way to control timing aside from fuel I could run the toyota throttle body on the 4g63 manifold and run propane with a kit from a company called gotpropane.com. Let me know if anyone comes up with any idea's except a stand alone.
 
I just Have to throw this in the ring again. Umm why don't you just go with Ethenol it would probly end up costing you the same in fuel costs, but cunsuption is going to go way up! End result, would probly cost the exact same to run, all things considered... IN THEORY! You do the math. Ohh the ar fuel ratio for ethenol is 7.9:1...Hint Put in comsuption, which is a 25% drop in fuel econemy and that = What???
Just an Idea bro.
 
Well I like the idea of ethanol, but they dont sell it around here (new mexico) and I dont want to still my own. Also I am looking for a very simple system, I dont want to be screwing with sensors, injectors, ecu's, fuel pumps, ect in the woods.
 
Y not? You can upgrade so you really dont have to upgrade later! What im saying is you can get a bunch of components to get more horepewer. Then later you wouldnt have to upgrade your pump, lines, injectors, fuel rail, etc. Like if your upgrading turbo and so forth (later or now W/E)


What do you have to change to run propane? This interests me.. Throw it at me...
 
On a propane motor you need no fuel system. All you need is a distributor, mixer, regulator, and the propane lines to a cylinder.
 
Could I use the ecu just to control timing and not hook up the injectors or any sensors? Would it still control timing?

You'd still need all the other sensors, especially the airflow sensor, if you want the ecu to keep control of timing. You'd be OK if you just unplug the injectors, as long as you don't mind seeing the CEL.
Which sensors do you want to remove for this project?
 
Well I would be using a toyota throttlebody so I wont have any of the throttlebody sensors. I would be ok with using the cas, ecu, and coils. I dont know if I want to use the maf since I have a maft translator and that just adds more shit to go wrong in the middle of nowhere. I am wondering what actually controls timing? I would think it would only be the knock sensor and maybe the tps. Any idea's are appreciated.
 
Yeah, you'd be OK with the maft, too. As long as you have a DSM compatible airflow sensor you're good.

I run an Infinity Q45 throttle body, and it doesn't have ISC or idle position switch. It still runs fine without them, although the idle is not as steady as stock.

You'll need a TPS of some sort. The ecu uses TPS to know when to switch between open and closed loop. It's also used for accell enrichment, which prevents knock when you open the throttle quickly. TPS is not used for timing except when it triggers accel enrich.

The main factors that influences timing are rpm and airflow, which is why you need some sort of airflow sensor, and you need the CAS. Intake air temp has a small effect- the ecu will pull a few degrees of timing when IAT is above 133*F and higher, but only under light throttle. Knock pulls timing, too, but you knew that.
 
So I wonder if the toyota tps would work? I will have to look at the reference voltages and shit on the vantage. It sounds like I would need to pretty much leave the motor like it is with all the sensors and such and just unplug the injectors? Do you think it would run ok with the injectors unpluged? I guess that could work then if I ever decided to run dual fuel I could put a gas tank in it and plug in the injectors.
 
The longer this thread goes on the more it seems like it came from the "medula bad idea" portion of the brain
 
So I wonder if the toyota tps would work? I will have to look at the reference voltages and shit on the vantage. It sounds like I would need to pretty much leave the motor like it is with all the sensors and such and just unplug the injectors? Do you think it would run ok with the injectors unpluged? I guess that could work then if I ever decided to run dual fuel I could put a gas tank in it and plug in the injectors.

To see if the Toyota TPS can work, just measure the resistance betwee the pins and compare it to the resistance of a DSM TPS. Also check resistance with the throttle open and closed to see if it's the same at both ends. The ecu will supply 5 volts to the TPS, it's the resistance that counts.

Yes, you can unplug the injectors. I assume you have some other way of supplying fuel or propane to the motor. Otherwise it won't run (duh).
 
bringing this thread back.. any ideas if LPG can do good on our 4g63s?

Petrol prices are getting higher and higher.
 
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