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SMIC vs. FMIC

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nightracer91

20+ Year Contributor
414
6
Feb 27, 2006
Fort Wayne, Indiana
I did some searching but fell a little short handed. Let's say I am wanting to run ~300WHP, would a FMIC be a must, or would a Dejon SMIC or even a Supra SMIC do the job? Also, my FWD clanker is needing some work. Should I dish out the dough on the FWD, or find an AWD?:dsm:
 
300hp on a FWD can be done but you will run into the traction problem that alot of FWD guys have. I love AWD, and very little traction issues. I have seen people hit 300WHP with a SMIC but yeah a FMIC would make it easier. I went with the modified Dejon SMIC and I love it especially for a sleeper car. All and all my opinon is find an AWD and make it a bat out of hell!!!
 
For only 300HP a SMIC is fine...You can make 300hp on the stock IC, though an upgraded IC is your best bet. My friend is using the stock IC to power his Gt-30r...Not very efficient, but it works as long as the boost is kept under 20psi.

The "traction problems" can be overcome by getting an LSD or by learning how to properly launch your car.
 
Here is the deal.
If you choose a good FMIC, the good thing is that it will be more efficient since it is in the front of the car taking all the air it can. the bad thing is that more likely you will have long pipe and it will drop some PSI (not unleast you buy a intercooler pipe with a short route)

If you have a SMIC well there is less piping going on, but there is a lack of flow since it is hiding in the fender and I see it pointless. why do you think that SRT-4 and Evo has FMIC in the front?
 
Well, everyone seems to have hit it right on the dot. I'd just like to add to the SMIC vs. FMIC arguement. The way to understand which way you want to go is your goals and what type of turbo and boost level you are going to be pushing. If your intercooler is sized too small, it will heatsoak at higher boost pressure. Also, each SMIC/FMIC is flow rated and tested (rated in CFM). The higher the rating, essentially, the higher the boost and power level you can achieve. Remember, better cooling = cooler air = less knock = more power. Not to make the discussion more complicated, but there is also a difference between top/bottom and side/side ICs.
 
Well, it really depends on what you want. I followed the tech article and rigged up a Co2 sprayer on my Stock IC and it seems to work quite well on keeping my temps down. It should suffice for my 300hp/12second goal. Check out the ebay FMIC threads also, the xs power intercooler seems to be a great deal
 
Dark_Horse said:
For only 300HP a SMIC is fine...You can make 300hp on the stock IC, though an upgraded IC is your best bet. My friend is using the stock IC to power his Gt-30r...Not very efficient, but it works as long as the boost is kept under 20psi.

Yea it will make 300hp for one dyno pull. Then like 270hp. Then like 250hp. Then 230hp, and then blow up.ROFL
 
MyBeatGSX said:
Yea it will make 300hp for one dyno pull. Then like 270hp. Then like 250hp. Then 230hp, and then blow up.ROFL


Who are you? Ive been running 26psi on a stock side mount with 110. My car is fine, but will be getting a better intercooler soon.

Please do not post unless you know what your talking about.


If you want somthing cheap, go with a supra side mount if you only want 300whp. I was going to do that setup since it looks stock and run some alky. But im just goign to do go a ebay front mount core there very nice there is a huge thread in the bolton section about them etc

You will be fine with the stock one, but its just always better to upgrade.
 
I got an MKIV side mount and just dyno'd 272 awhp on a dead 16g... But the IC was pretty hot after each pull, and had to be cooled/sprayed down after 2 good 3rd gear pulls..

If ya got the extra cash, get a front with short route...

If you're on a budget grab the ssmic for $50 off the supraforums and it'll be fine as long as you don't do back to back wot runs :)
 
blcknspo0ln said:
I believe you can find the key word yourself.


I daily drive with 20 psi, there is no "key word "a stock side mount will work for now. But its better to get a more effecient one. Sorry if I was clear, but somone posted you car will blow up on a stock side moutn with a 16G or somthign and that clearly will not happen.
 
Bro, who are YOU?

If you really need it, I'll provide links to each of my dyno charts showing the power loss on back to back pulls. That stock sidemount is good for 1, ONE, O-N-E, 1 pull. I touched it right after my first pull and burned my hand.

Do you run 110 octane daily too? I don't think most of us like to drive to the local speed shop/track to buy $8.00/gal gas just to run a piddly 20psi. Even if you're running 200gazillion octane, you're still losing LOTS of power because of lack of air density. All that octane is doing is keeping you from blowing it up. Try 25psi on 91 octane back to back to back and see how many peices your motor is in afterwards.

On a hot day, I can feel the car start to lose significant power in 3rd gear. I don't even make pulls longer than 5-10 seconds on the street. Plain and simple, that stock sidemount just doesn't have enough mass to absorb all that heat, its done after less than 10 seconds of full boost.:notgood:
 
nightracer91 said:
I did some searching but fell a little short handed. Let's say I am wanting to run ~300WHP, would a FMIC be a must, or would a Dejon SMIC or even a Supra SMIC do the job?
Either will do the job. Though, one will always say "300WHP" and then once there want more (damn DSM curse :cry: ). Having spent 12years modding my car, my hindsight is pretty good. A medium FMIC (6-8" high) will outperform any SMIC and cost less new. Get a larger one (10"+ high) and will never have to worry about upgrading that part again.

Also, my FWD clanker is needing some work. Should I dish out the dough on the FWD, or find an AWD?:dsm:
The likelihood of the replacement needing work (unless you luck out with a cherry) is pretty high, so unless the cost to fix is high, or you really want an AWD car, I'd stick with what you got ;) :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
Either will do the job. Though, one will always say "300WHP" and then once there want more (damn DSM curse :cry: ). Having spent 12years modding my car, my hindsight is pretty good. A medium FMIC (6-8" high) will outperform any SMIC and cost less new. Get a larger one (10"+ high) and will never have to worry about upgrading that part again.

The likelihood of the replacement needing work (unless you luck out with a cherry) is pretty high, so unless the cost to fix is high, or you really want an AWD car, I'd stick with what you got ;) :dsm:

Thank You! That is what I needed. Why couldn't anybody say this before?:thumb: :dsm:
 
TheClaw said:
I got an MKIV side mount and just dyno'd 272 awhp on a dead 16g... But the IC was pretty hot after each pull, and had to be cooled/sprayed down after 2 good 3rd gear pulls..

If ya got the extra cash, get a front with short route...

If you're on a budget grab the ssmic for $50 off the supraforums and it'll be fine as long as you don't do back to back wot runs :)
What if we want to keep the cutting to a minimum? I dont want to cut my radiator support, and I AM keeping my bumper support on. With that said, I was thinking if anything, about a 21x8x3 Street Imports FMIC and probably make my own piping.
 
I will shime in real quick, I was at the dyno the other day, yes I have a SMIC, stock even, i have the evo16g.

Mods are in my profile, I happen to stay consitant hp and tq for 5 pulls, with a 99 degree heatsoak on the intercooler.. you try to tell me that its a pieace for what it is, the guys at the dyno didnt think I would even get that high at all.

Its all about the tune guys, you just gotta know what your doing, a little more time i could of easily broke 300 with a smic.

Oh ya, this is at 19 psi on 91 ocatane pump gas.
 
JOEY A said:
I daily drive with 20 psi, there is no "key word "a stock side mount will work for now. But its better to get a more effecient one. Sorry if I was clear, but somone posted you car will blow up on a stock side moutn with a 16G or somthign and that clearly will not happen.

I was merely stating that 26 psi on a stock SMIC WILL HEATSOAK and cause detonation, etc. Since you were using a higher octane fuel that is most likely the reason you were able to run such a high boost pressure. Hell, even 26 psi on a large FMIC and pump gas would worry the hell out of me.
 
Since everyone thought the stock SMIC was a POS, how about these #'s. Mind you, this is at 5500 ft above sea level at Bandimere in CO.

12.8 at 106mph with a 1.6 60' on a 16g, full exhaust and translator on stock SMIC!

This proves that you can run descent times with it...Yes, probably was totally heat soaked at the end and yes, probably could run faster with a FMIC or upgraded SMIC, but still. 12.8 at 5500ft above sea level on stock SMIC!

So I say once again, FWIW, if you're only going for 300HP, stock SMIC isn't as big of a POS as everyone thinks at that power level.
 
CT RULEZ YO!!ROFL Aside from the weather, the roads, the traffic, the people, the taxes, etc etc etc....:D
 
the FMIC is usually the best way to go. BUT i run a supra smic with a 14b and i ran 13.2 on pump gas and around 17-18psi. the intercooler works well but yes it will heatsoak. my trick for the track was to run and than come back and chill for a few minutes. i would let the engine cool down and than shut it off. open the hood and with the key in the on position turn on the ac light and turn the blower switch on. this would make both rad fans come on. the entire uicp and ic seemed to cool in about 3 minutes and i would be ready to go again. once i goto a 16g i have a feelin the cool down process will be even less. at the same psi the bigger turbo makes alot less heat. this was all on 93 octane. if anyone else decides to go with the xs power fmic kit and uses it on a 1g please drop me some pics installed. :thumb:
 
MyBeatGSX said:
Bro, who are YOU?

If you really need it, I'll provide links to each of my dyno charts showing the power loss on back to back pulls. That stock sidemount is good for 1, ONE, O-N-E, 1 pull. I touched it right after my first pull and burned my hand.

Bull$hit. Garry Marsh tunes my car at Speed Injection in Hallandale, FL. In summer heat we consistently pull numbers that vary within 10 whp, allowing 5 min rests. This is with 8 to 10 pulls on the dyno per hour. One pull you say? Ridiculous. My last tune gained power per pull due to tuning adjustments.

On a hot day, I can feel the car start to lose significant power in 3rd gear. I don't even make pulls longer than 5-10 seconds on the street. Plain and simple, that stock sidemount just doesn't have enough mass to absorb all that heat, its done after less than 10 seconds of full boost.:notgood:

Ooooh. So hot in CT.
 
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