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slowboy shortblocks

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We sure will!!

I will warn you though, there is no warrantee on these, ESPECIALLY on a 7bolt, so if it crankwalks, your out the cost of a good motor.

We STRONGLY reccomend 6 bolt motors around here.

Chris
 
Assuming you have the entire engine, manifolds and all, the only things you need to do are:
-CrankAS to the CamAS
-2g side engine mount to clear the ider pulley

that's it no?
plus eliminating the CEL for the sensor conversion...
 
Correct me if i'm wrong but isn't crankwalk caused by a bad batch of bearings that Mitsu used breaking down and allowing side-side play in the crank? If the block is built, wouldn't these bearings be replaced with, for lack of a better word, stronger and better bearings? Not to mention, spend the extra and get an eagle crank :)
 
Nah, why would rebuilt 7-bolts crankwalk then? As well as some 6-bolts.

The most plausible theories are related to oil starvation and/or bad alignment of the thrust bearing halves on assembly (it's harder to align 7-bolt thrust bearings since all the main caps are connected).
 
So the SBR 6 bolt blocks also do not include a warranty?

I strongly feel the extra work is worth the effort, as far as the 6 bolt swap is concerned. I mean it could keep you from having to replace the engine again unlike the 7bolt, the having it walk or rod knock on ya.

<<<<<<---Like this car here on your left, the 1G-B that came with a stock 7 bolt. Weak rods.

I mean quite a few people have rebuilt them and it failed again soon after (with 7 bolt). Doing it once is cheaper and easier than doing it twice, correct?
 
steel_3d said:
The most plausible theories are related to oil starvation and/or bad alignment of the thrust bearing halves on assembly (it's harder to align 7-bolt thrust bearings since all the main caps are connected).

Morpherex said:
Isn't EVO 7 bolt without crankwalk?

Yep, and Overbore has a bearing fix to solve this issue for early 2G motors. 866.364.4630. Late 2G and Evo 7-bolt motors have improved thrust bearings. My 2Gb has 120k on it and is in spec. But I never ride the clutch and I keep the oil and filters clean.

And when discussing crankwalk, it surely seems that cranks without adequate hardening fail sooner. Talk to Overbore. I don't want to quote them but I believe they'll tell you that part of their process is hardening the dickens out of the crank. I've got a new 7 bolt crank I'm going to have worked over and use in my build. We'll see...
 
Just tossing this out there, if we build a seven bolt, we only build them with forged rods and pistons so that we can eliminate the oil squirters. Forged pistons don't need oil squirted on them for cooling, only cast pistons (stockers) do. By blocking off the squirters on the girdle, we can ensure better main bearing oil pressure. We also do this on alot of our high horsepower 6 bolt engines that can not sacrafice any main bearing oil at high rpms (9000 and up :rocks: )
 
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