Sloppy Clutch Pedal

[Empir3 X]

Ok so heres the deal...

I have replaced my clutch with an oem clutch kit, had my flywheel resurfaced, replaced my slave and master cylinder.

My clutch pedal is mushy as hell. It lags at the bottom and is slow to return. I have bled the line like 5 or 6 times and to my dismay no better. I physically checked the fluid line and see no wear that would indicate a problem.

After this i replaced the master cylinder again (thinking it was bad) and also bled the line many times. No help to the clutch.

The Tranny shifts smooth and holds fine even under hard acceleration. (I am sure the tranny was put together correctly)

I am out of ideas unless the slave i got is bad also.

Please Help! Thanks, Alex

 

[eclipsh]

Have you checked to see if the pedal assembly is binding somehow? I'd try disconnecting the master cylinder from the pedal and swinging it around to see if maybe something is binding in the pedal assembly itself.

 

[Empir3 X]

yup. Its fine, no stoppage of the pedal. This thing is ridiculous!!!!!

 

[Badgst96]

Def check your clutch line..people switch to s.s. lines cause the oem ones are prone to leak which will make i impossible for you to every get bled prperly.

YES!!! check your lines and pretty much everywhere... its most likely a leak because i had this same problem on my GST... except mine leaked from the firewall inside the car... what fluid are you using..

 

[Empir3 X]

using dot 3/4 fluid. Good stuff, i use it in my cbr1000 so i know its good enough for my car. And i have full ss lines. No leaks anywhere!!

No idea what to do

 

[eclipsh]

Now you take it to a professional mechanic who you trust and let him deal with it. If you've tried everything you can think of and everything we can think of that is really your only option left if you want it fixed.

 

[TJs91tsi]

One thing I never like about these cars... The way the clutch feels. Even when it disengages properly, still soesnt feel right!

Is it engaging the clutch completely and properly when you depress the pedal?
How high do you have to release the pedal before it pulls forward?

When you adjust the pedal, be sure as you adjust the rod, you adjust the switch at the top of the clutch pedal too. If thats too tight, the pedal wont release all the way and the push rod wont retract out of the MC fully.

If its truly "mushy" you have either air, or a leak. So one more thing i would suggest, is to bench bleed the master cylinder. Pull off the hard line from the master cylinder, plug the hole with your finger and have someone depress the pedal. After the fluid gushes out, keep the hole plugged and tell them to draw the pedal back up. Repeat a few times. It should get the air out. Then put your line on, and bleed the line again.

Hope all goes well.
Tyler.

 

[Empir3 X]

thanks for the advice, i will never take it to a mechanic....

DSM's....turning ordinary people into mechanics one day at a time

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

One comment on bleeding, did you bleed the slave while you were doing it? This is by FAR the best description of proper bleeding that I've read. Check out their whole FAQ here. Also, though I know you've probably read everything about adjustment and fork alignment 1,000 times, check out the videos below in case you missed something. Besides that, all I can think of is improper step height on the flywheel, a bad clutch install, or crank walk. I know how you feel. I've been fighting disengagement issues for over a year. Just be glad you don't have to deal w/ a worn clutch pedal assembly like the 1g guys.


Pivot bal shimming (I know you have a stock clutch so you shouldn't shim, but this helps discuss what a worn fork/ball can do. You should get new fork/ball if you need to rather than shim):
YouTube - Pivot Ball Shimming

Clutch adjustment:
YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

 

[Empir3 X]

thanks for the suggestions, great videos as well.

 

[Red97Eclipseboy]

Nice link TurboAWDfanatic. I going to link up the write-up from our site. People always just bleed the master, but never the slave. I still have yet to do it, but I will be shortly. My clutch has the exact symptom as the OP.

If I get to it first, I'll post up results.

 

[viprez586]

I know 1gs have the pedal assembly wearing out creating a "notch".
You push the clutch in and let it rise by itself. Now pull straight up on the pedal to the roof and if there is any movement the pedal assembly needs to be removed and repaired or replaced.

"hydrological" did you mean hydraulic?

 

[Empir3 X]

so bad news. Im starting to think that my crank is getting play. While going through a left turn if i hit the clutch pedal it will just about go to the bottom with no effort, it comes back, but i know this is not good.

My car may be done for.....

 

[impactspoon]

I was picking through ShopKey at work today and did happen to come across aTSB with your symptoms, the recommended course of action ( provided all air has been bled ) was an adjustment pertaining to the clutch pedal, involving a 14mm deep socket. I hope your problem is rectified soon as the talon I'm buying is doing the same thing.

 

[Empir3 X]

where and how is the adjustment made may i ask...?

Thanks, Alex