2G Should I have done something different with the setup?

[Myk984g63]

I am having no luck getting the motor to run like it should. I guess I thought while the motor was taken apart (mostly) to change the head gasket, it was a perfect time to add some HP.

The motor was stock but had a 16g and FMIC when I bought it. I mainly did the cosmetics first (body and interior) and then ordered DSMlink. I installed that and unfortunately I overlooked something and it over boosted and the head gasket was the victim. So I decided to start ordering parts while it was down.

The parts that I installed during the downtime were:
FP hta68 turbo that used an external wastegate.
New O2 housing made for the Turbosmart 40mm wastegate and dump tube.
S90 throttle body.
WeaponR sheet metal intake manifold.
CX exhaust manifold.
AEM afpr.
Bosch 1600cc injectors.
Walbro 255 fuel pump and rewired.
600hp rated FMIC and new piping for the turbo set up.
Agency Power 4" catless exhaust.
9.5mm plug wires.
STM short tube intake off turbo with K&N filter (No MAF).
Speed density set up with IAT sensor and GM 3bar with harness for factory plug and play.
Vacuum hoses deleted using diagram found on this site and using a turbo timer instead of coolant lines ran to turbo.
Blox boost controller (turned all the way down).
And obviously New gaskets for the head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, tb and have done boost leak tests and checked sensors.

The headgasket blew 5 months ago and have not been able to get it to either idle or drive properly since everything has been installed. Rix Racing did a remote tune and was cut short and determined that the 850cc injectors were bad so that's now replaced with the 1600's along with a new fuel filter.
It's like a monster that has so much power but ended up having down syndrome. Did I do something wrong in choosing parts or is that just a bad set up?

Any suggestions would be so appreciated and have posted logs and have done everything suggested and still can't get off the handicap bus. I'm so excited to drive it running properly and so proud of the time, blood, sweat and tears I've put into it.

It's keeping an ok idle but can't drive it for more than 5 feet without it bogging down and dying. Should I pull the motor and completely start over? Have I invested wasted money?
Basically where should I even start or am I just missing something small???

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[Vegas Smith]

I recall the last time you posted a log the car was setup for 850s but you had 1600s in.....

The parts list is fairly solid. Have Rix Racing finish the tune.

 

[Myk984g63]

He's going to attempt to finish Tuesday thankfully. He's busy with the shootout stuff til then so I totally understand.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/log-2021-08-15-01-elg.636963/

That's the newest log I've posted a few days ago

 

[Vegas Smith]

My man you have so many things wrong. You have two map sensors setup, your wideband isn't working, your tps is f***ed up still.

 

[Myk984g63]

Actually heres a log from yesterday when it was idling but not drivable

 

[Vegas Smith]

OK, you've literally done nothing that anyone has suggested you do so I don't know how else to help you.

 

[Myk984g63]

I haven't done the last couple of things because it's 110° here everyday and I live in a complex of condos and get bitched out when I am trying to start my car 50x, recharge my battery, clean spark plugs and reinstall and can't ever get it to idle.

I've done almost everything that is told to me except a few days ago only because it's been so unhealthy to go outside and just started to wonder if maybe I just went about this build all wrong and so I made this post. I am beyond thankful for everyone's advice and do what I can to my capable knowledge.

I am so jealous of most of you having a car that's dialed in because I have zero options when it comes to local help less than 150mi. The closet DSM tuners with experience are 5+ hrs away. I can't take it to them if I can't get it drivable so please just bear with me, I'm doing my best. I'm just on my own to do it and have had to do things 2 or 3x over again because the first time is either wrong or not good enough.

Honestly this summer heat is so Intense it's pathetic and am actually getting evicted now because I'm considered a 'nuisance' trying to get it to idle. Got the 60 day notice Friday unfortunately. I guess I'm just so excited, I'm hoping there is some magical easy way to get it going or something simple I've over looked but you're right I need to do those 3 things first before asking for anything else. I apologize.

 

[dustyboner]

if your gonna be running 2 map sensors, you need to switch them so the omni 4 bar is on the baro input and the 3 bar is on the MDP.

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from: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/2gbaroinputworkaround

2G Baro Input Workaround

The baro input of the 2G ECU may not be compatible with aftermarket sensors. The 2G ECU has a 3.3K ohm pull-down resistor (R39), which may (probably will) put more load on the sensor than it can drive properly.

For example, a GM 3-bar sensor can only drive this input to 1.76 volts at maximum pressure. The GM 3.3-bar sensor seems to have a bit lower output impedance and will drive the 2G baro input a little higher, but it's still unsuitable.

Short of removing that resistor from the ECU (described below), the 2G baro input is suitable for use only with very low impedance sensors (even a 50-ohm output impedance will produce a little over 1% of voltage offset). Since most sensor designs have a resistor in series with its output for protection, the 2G ECU's baro sensor input is probably not suitable for use with most sensors.

OMNIPOWER NOTE: The OmniPower 4-bar sensor that we sell on our website *does* work fine on the 2G baro input. This sensor incorporates a buffer circuit that drives the 2G baro input just fine.

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for some reason the linux version of ecmlink that im using at the moment has no f***ing fuel tab, so i have no idea what your fuel settings are but make sure you have

global set to: -72
deadtime: 450

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata

something like the FIC 1200 injectors would probably idle better than what you have.
1600s are way overkill for your fuel pump setup.
even with 1200s you'd run out of pump before youd run out of injector.

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make sure your TPS is correctly adjusted mechanically

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then adjust it in link

once all that is good, read this shit:

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

if you can't get it fixed after that, your fuct.

well not really but you might need to drop some cash on professional help.

 

[Myk984g63]

Okay. For some reason it won't even start if I don't have the deadtime set to 900. It was recommended that I get high impedance so I'm currently looking into that as well.

 

[pauleyman]

You have 4 or 5 threads dating back to March and were still talking about some of the same problems.
Is there some reason you can't just sit on this until rix can finish it? Why continue to ask advice when you already hired a tuner? And you're now suggesting another change to injectors?

 

[Myk984g63]

You have 4 or 5 threads dating back to March and were still talking about some of the same problems.
Is there some reason you can't just sit on this until rix can finish it? Why continue to ask advice when you already hired a tuner? And you're now suggesting another change to injectors?

Was only going to change injectors because a wiseman recommended getting high impedance ones because they are better. The main reason for asking these questions is I'm just trying to be mechanically ready for Rix so there's no problems. I know he's extremely busy and don't want to waste his time for things on my end.

 

[Myk984g63]

if your gonna be running 2 map sensors, you need to switch them so the omni 4 bar is on the baro input and the 3 bar is on the MDP.

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from: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/2gbaroinputworkaround


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

for some reason the linux version of ecmlink that im using at the moment has no f***ing fuel tab, so i have no idea what your fuel settings are but make sure you have

global set to: -72
deadtime: 450

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata

something like the FIC 1200 injectors would probably idle better than what you have.
1600s are way overkill for your fuel pump setup.
even with 1200s you'd run out of pump before youd run out of injector.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

make sure your TPS is correctly adjusted mechanically

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

then adjust it in link

once all that is good, read this shit:

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

if you can't get it fixed after that, your fuct.

well not really but you might need to drop some cash on professional help.

So I should change it even if the 4bar is connected to the mdp harness and mounted on the SMIM?

 

[dustyboner]

only if your gonna run 2 sensors

the 4 bar will work on the baro or the MDP
the 3 bar will only read correctly on the MPD, unless you remove a resistor from the circuit board of the ecu,

i suggest you read this again:

2G Baro Input Workaround

The baro input of the 2G ECU may not be compatible with aftermarket sensors. The 2G ECU has a 3.3K ohm pull-down resistor (R39), which may (probably will) put more load on the sensor than it can drive properly.
For example, a GM 3-bar sensor can only drive this input to 1.76 volts at maximum pressure. The GM 3.3-bar sensor seems to have a bit lower output impedance and will drive the 2G baro input a little higher, but it's still unsuitable.
Short of removing that resistor from the ECU (described below), the 2G baro input is suitable for use only with very low impedance sensors (even a 50-ohm output impedance will produce a little over 1% of voltage offset). Since most sensor designs have a resistor in series with its output for protection, the 2G ECU's baro sensor input is probably not suitable for use with most sensors.

OMNIPOWER NOTE: The OmniPower 4-bar sensor that we sell on our website *does* work fine on the 2G baro input. This sensor incorporates a buffer circuit that drives the 2G baro input just fine.

 

[dustyboner]

see how your 4bar and 3bar are reading diffferent. the 4 bar should be correct but you have it set up to use the 3bar for ECU functions.

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try setting it like this and see if it helps

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[Myk984g63]

if your gonna be running 2 map sensors, you need to switch them so the omni 4 bar is on the baro input and the 3 bar is on the MDP.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

from: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/2gbaroinputworkaround


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

for some reason the linux version of ecmlink that im using at the moment has no f***ing fuel tab, so i have no idea what your fuel settings are but make sure you have

global set to: -72
deadtime: 450

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata

something like the FIC 1200 injectors would probably idle better than what you have.
1600s are way overkill for your fuel pump setup.
even with 1200s you'd run out of pump before youd run out of injector.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

make sure your TPS is correctly adjusted mechanically

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

then adjust it in link

once all that is good, read this shit:

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

if you can't get it fixed after that, your fuct.

well not really but you might need to drop some cash on professional help.

I can't even get it to start if the deadtime is less than 800

 

[Myk984g63]

only if your gonna run 2 sensors

the 4 bar will work on the baro or the MDP
the 3 bar will only read correctly on the MPD, unless you remove a resistor from the circuit board of the ecu,

i suggest you read this again:

2G Baro Input Workaround

The baro input of the 2G ECU may not be compatible with aftermarket sensors. The 2G ECU has a 3.3K ohm pull-down resistor (R39), which may (probably will) put more load on the sensor than it can drive properly.
For example, a GM 3-bar sensor can only drive this input to 1.76 volts at maximum pressure. The GM 3.3-bar sensor seems to have a bit lower output impedance and will drive the 2G baro input a little higher, but it's still unsuitable.
Short of removing that resistor from the ECU (described below), the 2G baro input is suitable for use only with very low impedance sensors (even a 50-ohm output impedance will produce a little over 1% of voltage offset). Since most sensor designs have a resistor in series with its output for protection, the 2G ECU's baro sensor input is probably not suitable for use with most sensors.

OMNIPOWER NOTE: The OmniPower 4-bar sensor that we sell on our website *does* work fine on the 2G baro input. This sensor incorporates a buffer circuit that drives the 2G baro input just fine.

Okay I switched the setting for the sensors around