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Shift points in 1g fwd and awd

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theebluecrx

15+ Year Contributor
84
0
Jan 19, 2004
Bartow, Florida
Well long story short my fwd tcu went bad and have only been able to locate a awd to replace it.In fourth gear the car is at 3500 rpm which i suspect is killing my highway gas mileage.Also WOT shifts with PWR button on are at 6500.If i remember correctly my old 1g gs-t(back in 2004) had WOT shifts at 7k.Just looking for what you 1g fwd auto guys WOT shift points are.
 
Your best bet is to get the correct tcu and sell the awd tcu..Is this your Tcu's # MD750093 ? I can probably find one if your interested...
 
If you're going 3500 RPM in 4th on the highway, a TCU changes isn't gonna do anything for you. 4th gear is the highest gear. You can't get that RPM any lower except by slowing down.

I drive the car once or twice a week so gas really isnt my concern.My main reason for changing it is the WOT shift point.GDNF2ET might have found the correct tcu just waiting to hear back.
 
If you're going 3500 RPM in 4th on the highway, a TCU changes isn't gonna do anything for you. 4th gear is the highest gear. You can't get that RPM any lower except by slowing down.



You were wrong.With the fwd tcu i'm at 3k at 70 mph.I dropped 500 rpm and gained gas mileage.I think i honestly doubled my gas mileage with the tcu.At the track i was at the top of 3rd gear going thru the traps.Now i wont be and probably gain some mph.Thanks for the hookup on the tcu GDNF2ET.
 
You were wrong.With the fwd tcu i'm at 3k at 70 mph.I dropped 500 rpm and gained gas mileage.I think i honestly doubled my gas mileage with the tcu.At the track i was at the top of 3rd gear going thru the traps.Now i wont be and probably gain some mph.Thanks for the hookup on the tcu GDNF2ET.

Then you weren't in 4th. The converter is not a lockup and the converter slip is the ONLY thing that will differentiate mph RPM while keeping mph steady. Gear is gear, a computer isn't gonna change your ratio. And I find it hard to believe the stock vehicle sitting in my driveway is wrong. I drove it just last week experimenting with shift points.
 
Then you weren't in 4th. The converter is not a lockup and the converter slip is the ONLY thing that will differentiate mph RPM while keeping mph steady. Gear is gear, a computer isn't gonna change your ratio. And I find it hard to believe the stock vehicle sitting in my driveway is wrong. I drove it just last week experimenting with shift points.

My overdrive works and i shut it off and it downshifts to 3rd gear to a higher rpm@ 70 mph.With a "600 hp" dsm you should already know that awd and fwd's have different gear ratio's and shift points for driveability and gas mileage automatic or 5 speed.I had a awd tcu with a fwd tranny and the shift points werent matching up simple as that.Please lock this thread as the probelm was solved.
 
My overdrive works and i shut it off and it downshifts to 3rd gear to a higher rpm@ 70 mph.With a "600 hp" dsm you should already know that awd and fwd's have different gear ratio's and shift points for driveability and gas mileage automatic or 5 speed.I had a awd tcu with a fwd tranny and the shift points werent matching up simple as that.Please lock this thread as the probelm was solved.

Electronics CANNOT change gearing! And yes, I have more 400,500, & 600+ whp, etc, dyno sheets than you have had hot meals, and I'm very well aware of the difference in gear ratio, it happens to be an included CALCULATION in the sections of code that I REPROGRAM in our TCUs. However, the gearing is inside the transmission, all the TCU does is control shifts. The only thing that can change mph vs RPM is gearing, which is unchangeable. I would recommend reading up on gearing and how transmissions work.
 
Electronics CANNOT change gearing! And yes, I have more 400,500, & 600+ whp, etc, dyno sheets than you have had hot meals, and I'm very well aware of the difference in gear ratio, it happens to be an included CALCULATION in the sections of code that I REPROGRAM in our TCUs. However, the gearing is inside the transmission, all the TCU does is control shifts. The only thing that can change mph vs RPM is gearing, which is unchangeable. I would recommend reading up on gearing and how transmissions work.

I know about gearing i'm no car performance or function newbie.All i have to say is the only change was a tcu swap and there was a 500 rpm difference being displayed.Either the tcu interacts with the rpm or mph gauge could be the only other reason its changed.Yes gears are physical metal parts and can only be physically changed.I'm done here thanks for the help to everyone.
 
Electronics CANNOT change gearing! And yes, I have more 400,500, & 600+ whp, etc, dyno sheets than you have had hot meals, and I'm very well aware of the difference in gear ratio, it happens to be an included CALCULATION in the sections of code that I REPROGRAM in our TCUs. However, the gearing is inside the transmission, all the TCU does is control shifts. The only thing that can change mph vs RPM is gearing, which is unchangeable. I would recommend reading up on gearing and how transmissions work.


Oh and your one cocky bastard.Your no john shephard.
 
The RPMs didn't change becuase of a TCU swap, the reason I know this, and what HighPSi was saying as well, is because the TCU does nothing to the rpm signal.

Also, to the guy who posted the thread, at 3500rpms on the highway, you were in D with the OD off, so 3rd gear, as HighPSi also said.
 
The RPMs didn't change becuase of a TCU swap, the reason I know this, and what HighPSi was saying as well, is because the TCU does nothing to the rpm signal.

Also, to the guy who posted the thread, at 3500rpms on the highway, you were in D with the OD off, so 3rd gear, as HighPSi also said.


No i was not in 3rd gear.I switched it on and off and it would downshift to a higher rpm when disengaged.Car was in 4th gear.This arguing is going nowhere the tcu swap fixed the problem end of thread.I should videotape it to prove my point.I still have the awd tcu and could show what i'm talking about.
 
Just wondering why you fellow AT guys haven't started running the "Clutchless Manual AT mod" yet?

-Talk about firmer shifts! Add to that, you also can control the RPMs for your up/down shifts manually... I tried to post a link, but the link I had saved is no good... All you need to do this is 2 standard automotive relays, a 3.3 ohm 10 watt resistor, a spare TPS, and some wire & a few spade connectors.

Here's a pic of my home-made "Clutchless Manual AT Mod" that I've been running for about 2 years now (both on the OEM W4A33 & on my IPT built W4A33).

Best when used when launching AWD ATs.. I dunno about you FWD AT guys though: I already have traction problems in my AWD while launching at ~3800-4k :D I would think that it would still bennefit your FWD 2nd-3rd & 3rd-4th shifts as you run out of track in the 1/4. :thumb:
 

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Just wondering why you fellow AT guys haven't started running the "Clutchless Manual AT mod" yet?

-Talk about firmer shifts! Add to that, you also can control the RPMs for your up/down shifts manually... I tried to post a link, but the link I had saved is no good... All you need to do this is 2 standard automotive relays, a 3.3 ohm 10 watt resistor, a spare TPS, and some wire & a few spade connectors.

Here's a pic of my home-made "Clutchless Manual AT Mod" that I've been running for about 2 years now (both on the OEM W4A33 & on my IPT built W4A33).

Best when used when launching AWD ATs.. I dunno about you FWD AT guys though: I already have traction problems in my AWD while launching at ~3800-4k :D I would think that it would still bennefit your FWD 2nd-3rd & 3rd-4th shifts as you run out of track in the 1/4. :thumb:

looks like a spinoff of the RMT mod, which is just a ghetto TCU hack IMO. It's much nicer to take the TCU out of the picture, thus making the shifts 100% predictable and precise. That is what most of us are doing now.
 
looks like a spinoff of the RMT mod, which is just a ghetto TCU hack IMO. It's much nicer to take the TCU out of the picture, thus making the shifts 100% predictable and precise. That is what most of us are doing now.

WTF Hack? -Ghetto? Since when is circumventing factory specs / features a crime in the DSM arena? -It gets results in an in-expensive manner... BTW, how are you able to by-pass the TCU entirely anyways? -And how much did that cost? I'll venture a guess here on how it works: You are manually activating the OEM AT solenoids at full line pressure by means of your TCU by-pass device. When you activated it would be in effect be giving you "precise" up/down shifts... What I fail to see here is how is that any different then the DIY AT mod as ultimately they are still signaling the OEM solenoids within the valve body to produce the same result.

Please enlighten me

Also, if you are still a weekend warrior (like myself) you probably would like to keep the stock AT shift functionality... If you by-pass the TCU entirely, does your full by-pass mod offer a DD mode? -The DIY mod does :)
 
Where are all these tcms coming from?I cant find one to save my life!OP,how does your mod hook in and does it need a working tcu?How do you change gears?
 
WTF Hack? -Ghetto? Since when is circumventing factory specs / features a crime in the DSM arena? -It gets results in an in-expensive manner... BTW, how are you able to by-pass the TCU entirely anyways? -And how much did that cost? I'll venture a guess here on how it works: You are manually activating the OEM AT solenoids at full line pressure by means of your TCU by-pass device. When you activated it would be in effect be giving you "precise" up/down shifts... What I fail to see here is how is that any different then the DIY AT mod as ultimately they are still signaling the OEM solenoids within the valve body to produce the same result.

Please enlighten me

Also, if you are still a weekend warrior (like myself) you probably would like to keep the stock AT shift functionality... If you by-pass the TCU entirely, does your full by-pass mod offer a DD mode? -The DIY mod does :)

It can be switched on and off yes. and yes the way most people are doing it manually commands the shifts. What you have done works pretty damn well, I won't deny that. The difference is one is direct signaling while the other is checking a bunch of shit that doesn't matter then deciding what it wants to let you do then doing it. You're still limited by what the TCU wants to let you do. 99% of the time it does work perfect,though personally I feel that direct solenoid operation makes for a slightly quicker/more consistant shift response. Also remember some people switch from MT to AT and don't want to do all the wiring required for a TCU or swap a harness. To each their own. Personally, I do the opposite of most of you guys. I like to shift, so I drive around manually, and have custom programmed shift points for racing.
 
Where are all these tcms coming from?I cant find one to save my life!OP,how does your mod hook in and does it need a working tcu?How do you change gears?

I guess this was intended for me..

First, let me clarify a few things here... This is by no means "my" mod... I posted this thinking that it was common knowledge but (much to my surprise) it's not even around anymore and no one knows any thing about it. :confused: I have been using this mod for some time now and I haven't had anything bad happen because of it on either tranny.

Anyways,

This mod works in conjunction with a factory AT setup... It works in two ways:

1) by interrupting the exhaust flow control solenoid (only when activated) thus giving you full line pressure at each shift (up or down)

2) interrupts the TCU's TPS signal's input with a false TPS signal that's generated via the additional TPS sensor. By feeding in this false TPS signal into the TCU, it creates an immediate shift response from within the TCU.

The relays serve these purposes... The resistor was put in place as to avoid going into limp mode as if the TCU doesn't see any resistance on the flow control solenoid, it goes into limp mode.

How to shift? -Simple... Engage the mod (I wired mine up to the "ECO" side of the ECO / PWR switch) and start off in whatever gear you want to start off in. Manually up shift with the gear select all the way through 4th... or until you run out of track :D

I'll dig around my records for a schematic if anyone's interested. -PM me.
 
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