setting timing belt tension

[spiderrey]

ok go ahead and shoot me down. i did a search, i know the infos there somewhere, but i didnt find it. i picked up a 95 gst with bent valves. just about got it all back together, but cant seem to get the tension set. the manuel is vague, and i dont want to destroy the head i just had rebuilt. in the search i did find i should replace the tensioner, and i will now that i have read that, although mine was pretty tough to compress.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y137/spiderrey/reyspics173.jpg

 

[ddavisaf]

Better safe than sorry... the tensioner applies the correct amount of tension, so there is no tightening needed. Something on a DSM that actually kinda works. Weird huh?
Just follow your manual and you'll be fine. If you're unsure of whether your timing marks are correct throw a pic up and we'll grade you on it.
Good luck and happy DSMing

 

[luv2rallye]

This may help: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214625

 

[spiderrey]

WOW! i couldnt have gotten a better response then this. you answered all my concerns about finishing this thing. printed out over 25 pages of info . very helpful,thanx luv2 and davis. i will follow these directions as closely as possible. i have already purchased the belts, i think 6 of them, they are not factory, they are gates which is a good brand ive trusted for years. i used 2 sell auto parts. next time i will buy a factory timing belt though. im not going to change the water pump due to cash flo right now . if it goes, ill just redo the work again. i dont mind, its like therapy to me, helps me unwind. i will get you some pics so u can grade my timing, im pretty sure its dead on though as ive worked on lots of different motors. there is one thing i would like to ask you. when i took the head off, i was in a hurry and just cut the belt, i already knew the valves were bent. i read something about the balance shaft being out of sinc. when i installed the balance and the timing belt, i lined everything up to the marks. im going to double check the oil pump pully now that i have all this info. and i did find some other useful info while i was trying to do the vfaqe search yesterday. i accidently found out where to tap in for the boost gauge my son gave me for my birthday lasy week along with a large intercooler.
thanx again. now i need to get to work

 

[luv2rallye]

Make sure you turn the crank 6 revs to check all the timing marks (they only all line up 1 out of 6 revs) and be sure to get the rear balance shaft "in proper phase" with oil pump shaft as it is not a 1 to 1 gear ratio on it (see notes you printed out about this). Also if you get a new auto tensioner, get ONLY Mitsubishi one (all after markets don't last and you can kiss the valves goodby again with them).

 

[spiderrey]

Thanks for all the info. I will be triple checking everything. Tried to find a new tensioner but there are no close Mitsubishi dealers here so i checked a Chrysler dealer and they cant get one till next week.
I know im not supposed to go off topic, but how is this spell check thing supposed to work?

 

[steve]

Better safe than sorry... the tensioner applies the correct amount of tension, so there is no tightening needed.

The tensioner maintains the tension not creates it, so you have to correctly pre-load the belt tension. That's what the whole deal with the tensioner pulley is all about.

Steve

 

[spiderrey]

Yes, thanks. I understand I have to set the tension properly, then release the tensionior to maintain it.

 

[spiderrey]

I finally picked up a new tensioner from the
Mitsubishi dealer today. Hopefully I can get it set right tommrow.

 

[spiderrey]

It seems I still need some help with these instructions that I printed off the vfaq the other day.The instructions say to use a drill bit as a spacer or feeler gauge when setting the tensioner wheel. The rod in the tensioner is pinned, so I am thinking this drill bit lays next to it? Never mind , I just figured it out. The drill bit is only used afterwards to check for proper adjustment. Using these instructions, I figured out my balance shaft was out of phase. I corrected it , now all the timing is correct.

 

[RamenPride]

If you can slide the grenade pin for the tensioner back in easily, then it's fine.

 

[spiderrey]

Thanks for that bit of information.

 

[spiderrey]

Just can't get it! I guess Ill buy that long tool and try it some more times. This car is starting to annoy me.

 

[talon210]

What is your exact problem? Is it the timing marks not all lining up when you release the tensioner?

 

[spiderrey]

My timing marks are fine. Its the clearance, between the arm and tensioner housing. Its to large. I just ordered the tools from Miller Tool yesterday, hopefully that will make things fall into place.

 

[Raph]

My timing marks are fine. Its the clearance, between the arm and tensioner housing. Its to large. I just ordered the tools from Miller Tool yesterday, hopefully that will make things fall into place.

wow, i made that rod myself using a m8x1.25 threaded rod, i just welded a nut on the back and was good to go..


but, i used a hyundai special tool to lock the cam gears, worked great!

ill put up the Kent-Moore numbers if anyonewants em.

 

[steve]

MD998738 (the threaded rod) is pretty useless.

It's MD998752 (the tensioner pulley socket) that can make or break the process of preloading the timing belt.

If you have too much clearance between the top of the tensioner and the tensioner arm then you're not applying enough pre-load with the tensioner pulley.

Keep in mind that the tensioner pulley rotates two different ways to tension depending on the mount. So a 6 bolt would likely rotate clockwise to tension like it does in a 1G, leaving the holes above the bolt.

Steve

 

[spiderrey]

If I understand what Ive read about these cars. Mine is a 95, making it a 2g, thus it would rotate counter clock wise. I know I could have made the rod, but didnt want to spend to much time trying to find the right threaded rod. I think the tool cost me about 11 or 12 bucks.