Seeking advice on exhaust system!

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Tried searching but nothing pin pointed my question, so here goes.

Mods: Full 3" catback exhaust. Megan 2.5 to 3" downpipe.

I see the bung in my exhaust piping, but I have read that the downpipe doesn't have a bung on it.

How do I avoid CEL? Is it even possible with cat delete? I am interested in getting a wide band o2 sensor since I have a MBC, is this a good time to have it installed? Where do I get a bung installed. My shop I go to for work or an exhaust shop? Should I just tie off the front o2 sensor and deal with a CEL? Could I just put a bung in the DP and have the front o2 sensor installed and dodge the CEL?

Not sure how I should go about installing the exhuast, I just know that I want to do it all in one fatal swoop and not worry about it anymore.

Also I don't plan on going crazy with the car. More interested in restoring it and making 250-300 hp, and plan on keeping it around 12 psi, do I even need a wideband?

What route should I take? Any help is appreciated <3

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

A lot of factors come into making hp with bolt ons or any other hp upgrades such as is your motor strong/healthy, tranny in good shape, clutch not slipping, leaks (exhaust and intoercooler) and tuning software. So to be honest it's not bs if you just slap a part on you won't see a hugh difference. It's all these factors combined that you'll see the most out of your money.

 

[WES_393]

Bullshit.

Extreme psi states the downpipe itself will add 10-16 hp itself, and I've heard the full exhaust will add 15-20.

With that logic, you could buy 50 electronic superchargers off eBay and make 500hp, right? The vendor claims they add 10hp. And they would never lie just to get your money.

The exhaust can (not will) add power IF its a restriction. Its completely dependent upon how much airflow the turbo is producing. The T25 near stock boost levels is not flowing enough air to max out the stock downpipe, so there's little to no gains to be had.

However, if you were to try and max out a PTE 6266 on the stock downpipe, then switched to a full 3" exhaust, you could see gains upward of 100hp if not more. The stock exhaust would be that much of a restriction.

So go ahead and believe what I'm saying is "bullshit". It won't change the facts.

 

[m1nd64m3]

If a vendor states the car will have 10-16 more horsepower, and I strap it to a dyno and do a before and after and gain no horse power, I could sue for false advertising. I'm not sayin he doesn't know what he's talking about but saying close to no horse power gains makes me put his word against Epsi which is a company worth a lot of money, and wouldn't put their ass on the line if they had not tested the mod to see what the increase in power is.

Lol

 

[dsmcurse]

I have a absolute perfect condition 14b turbo I could sell you for a very fair price if you don't already have one. The factory 2G turbo exhaust mannifold is actually very damn good piece right outa the box.

When you pull the t25 off you can pull the manni and the O2 sensor housing and port them open with a die grinder and a carbide bit. Afterwards use a stone wheel and polish the inside of each. You can finish by spray painting the two with high temp BBQ paint. The paint is flat black and looks really really nice and never fades or wears away.

Porting the two factory pieces will be well worth the effort especially if your adding a 14b turbo. Painting the pieces with BBQ paint makes it look pretty. You can even paint the heat sheilds that color too if you still use those things.

The exhaust system is already installed correct? Like as in you already have a downpipe installed and a cat delete and rear piping back to a aftermarket muffler?

Look under your car, look about right under the driver seat and look at the exhaust piping right in the neighborhood of being under the driver seat. Do you see another O2sensor? Is it screwed into the piping? Is it ziptied up to the underside of the body? Is it still there?

There SHOULD be another O2sensor screwed into your pipe down there. If not, get it screwed in. Your car should have it. As far as the MAIN oxygen sensor goes, it will be mounted right after your factory turbo.

The cast piece after the turbo (which I earlier talked about porting) is called your O2 sensor housing. The stock narrowband factory O2sensor screws into this location. This sensor is a absolute MUST.

Keep that sensor there. Infact replace it and change it with a new OEM Mitsubishi O2sensor. Your car will run better with a new one vs's a old 1996 sensor with 150thousand miles on it.

The wideband (after market) O2sensor will be custom installed into the downpipe. Leave the two factory sensors in there original locations. Have a bung (which should come with the wideband kit) welded into the downpipe. Install it somewhere befor the flex pipe section.

The wideband will hook up very simple style. Much later down the road when you upgrade to DSMLINK than you can wire the wideband into your ECU so you can data log the info.

And for a brand, I trully prefer PLX Device. In my opinioun they are the best. I've had AEM ugeo and had nothin but trouble with it. Same story with two of my buddys. PLX for the win for sure.

And like I said, if you don't have the hook up on a 14b already, I have a perfect condition low milage 14b that I could hook ya up with for a very fair price. Just PM if you need be.

Good luck man.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Bullshit.

Extreme psi states the downpipe itself will add 10-16 hp itself, and I've heard the full exhaust will add 15-20.

A down pipe with stock cat won't add crap. Full exhaust without changing/deleting stock cat won't do didly squat. Either one won't change crap with a t25.
I had full 3" no cat and stock minus muffler with the t25 and noticed only a slight spool difference. Which i could venture to say it was just in my head. The car never seemed anywhere close to 20hp faster.

Reason you need a full exhaust/larger exhaust is for back pressure reduction. If some 1 with a t25 is having back pressure issues the cat is clogged, flex pipe collapsed, or some1 shoved a potato up their tailpipe.

if you not changing your turbo then and your staying at stock levels a full exhaust will be for sound. Install a test pipe/high flow cat and change your muffler only is all you need do really. If its for looks or sound well, its your car do what you want.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I have a absolute perfect condition 14b turbo I could sell you for a very fair price if you don't already have one. The factory 2G turbo exhaust mannifold is actually very damn good piece right outa the box.

When you pull the t25 off you can pull the manni and the O2 sensor housing and port them open with a die grinder and a carbide bit. Afterwards use a stone wheel and polish the inside of each. You can finish by spray painting the two with high temp BBQ paint. The paint is flat black and looks really really nice and never fades or wears away.

Porting the two factory pieces will be well worth the effort especially if your adding a 14b turbo. Painting the pieces with BBQ paint makes it look pretty. You can even paint the heat sheilds that color too if you still use those things.

The exhaust system is already installed correct? Like as in you already have a downpipe installed and a cat delete and rear piping back to a aftermarket muffler?

Look under your car, look about right under the driver seat and look at the exhaust piping right in the neighborhood of being under the driver seat. Do you see another O2sensor? Is it screwed into the piping? Is it ziptied up to the underside of the body? Is it still there?

There SHOULD be another O2sensor screwed into your pipe down there. If not, get it screwed in. Your car should have it. As far as the MAIN oxygen sensor goes, it will be mounted right after your factory turbo.

The cast piece after the turbo (which I earlier talked about porting) is called your O2 sensor housing. The stock narrowband factory O2sensor screws into this location. This sensor is a absolute MUST.

Keep that sensor there. Infact replace it and change it with a new OEM Mitsubishi O2sensor. Your car will run better with a new one vs's a old 1996 sensor with 150thousand miles on it.

The wideband (after market) O2sensor will be custom installed into the downpipe. Leave the two factory sensors in there original locations. Have a bung (which should come with the wideband kit) welded into the downpipe. Install it somewhere befor the flex pipe section.

The wideband will hook up very simple style. Much later down the road when you upgrade to DSMLINK than you can wire the wideband into your ECU so you can data log the info.

And for a brand, I trully prefer PLX Device. In my opinioun they are the best. I've had AEM ugeo and had nothin but trouble with it. Same story with two of my buddys. PLX for the win for sure.

And like I said, if you don't have the hook up on a 14b already, I have a perfect condition low milage 14b that I could hook ya up with for a very fair price. Just PM if you need be.

Good luck man.

THanks brother, and I am shopping around for a 14b. I tried to PM but you have PMs turned off according to the error message I got. I will go get a new o2 sensor too, that sounds like a really good idea.