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1G Seeking Advice About Rebuilding A Rebuilt Engine

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spadepro22

15+ Year Contributor
1,206
14
Mar 13, 2008
Seneca, South Carolina
If I decided to rebuild my motor again(due to crankwalk) that was just fully rebuilt less than 1,000 miles ago, what route do I take? Trying to figure out how much more money I'd have to invest, or should I part out while the parts are still fairly new?
 
well usually once a motor crankwalks chances of it happening again are slim but rarely they do happen again. If you took it to a shop to do the rebuild the first time I would look into having them fixing it for free if not cheap. If you did the build yourself I would base it off of needs. If you have the cashflow to rebuild only the parts to bring it back to life and its not too money and time consuming do it. Otherwise I would part out and put the money elsewhere.
 
Would the block need honing again? Not bashing or blaming the shop at all, but should I send it back to them be reworked or look elsewhere? I mean shipping cost and pulling the motor again, should I look to buy a short block? Local shop wants 150 just to check with gage not by hand.
 
Would the block need honing again? Not bashing or blaming the shop at all, but should I send it back to them be reworked or look elsewhere? I mean shipping cost and pulling the motor again, should I look to buy a short block? Local shop wants 150 just to check with gage not by hand.

Yes it will need to be honed again, and the piston to wall clearance will need to be verified after it is honed. As for rebuilding an engine that crankwalked. What was done the first time? Was the crank replaced or did they resurface the thrust surface? Every time you have one of these engines that has excessive thrust play the crank thrust surface will be damaged. IF you just throw a new bearing on it than it will happen again. I highly recommend either replacing the oil jets, or just blocking them off. Make absolutely sure that the crank is either new or machined properly. Also have the line bore checked out on the block to make sure that it is straight. If you do these things than you should end up with a good long lasting bottom end.
 
Yes it will need to be honed again, and the piston to wall clearance will need to be verified after it is honed. As for rebuilding an engine that crankwalked. What was done the first time? Was the crank replaced or did they resurface the thrust surface? Every time you have one of these engines that has excessive thrust play the crank thrust surface will be damaged. IF you just throw a new bearing on it than it will happen again. I highly recommend either replacing the oil jets, or just blocking them off. Make absolutely sure that the crank is either new or machined properly. Also have the line bore checked out on the block to make sure that it is straight. If you do these things than you should end up with a good long lasting bottom end.

The thrust surface was probably resurfaced because it wasn't a new crank. With honing the block again, is there a chance I'd have to get new pistons? And what would a guesstimate be on this work?
 
I would check the pistons you have now and check the clearance when you get the new block honed. If they match up then you should be fine AS LONG as the rings and the pistons themselves are good.

if they are bad and the piston heads are resurfaceable then I would go that route if you have some high end pistons. You can also pick up a rebuild kit for about 300 bucks
 
Have you called the shop that did the build for you and talked to them?
 
I would check the pistons you have now and check the clearance when you get the new block honed. If they match up then you should be fine AS LONG as the rings and the pistons themselves are good.

if they are bad and the piston heads are resurfaceable then I would go that route if you have some high end pistons. You can also pick up a rebuild kit for about 300 bucks

What are you talking about the piston heads being resurfaceable? Also it is never a good idea to reuse rings after re honing the block. You could put them back into the same cylinder without honing, but after a hone, the pistons will need new rings.
 
Yes, they really didn't say much, said I need to check endplay. I guess we would go from there. I just don't want to have to dump a ton of more money into it again.
I'll take it to a shop today after work or Monday to have the endplay checked.

Why are you throwing around the old crankwalk word if you haven't even checked for proper end play? What is the engine doing that leads you to believe that it is crankwalked?
 
You've started several threads about what you think the problem is, people have have told you what to check and then you don't check it. I'm all about helping people but you are literally shooting in the dark over and over and over. Get some objective data and report back please.
 
Why are you throwing around the old crankwalk word if you haven't even checked for proper end play? What is the engine doing that leads you to believe that it is crankwalked?

Because of the left turn symptoms and the rpms dropping and car stalling.

You've started several threads about what you think the problem is, people have have told you what to check and then you don't check it. I'm all about helping people but you are literally shooting in the dark over and over and over. Get some objective data and report back please.


And I stated that I'll get it checked today or Monday. Not being smart, just saying. This thread is about seeking cost of rebuild not crankwalk. Crankwalk was just mention in this thread as the cause for rebuild. I've only started one thead about crankwalk.
 
The only way I could see a engine crank walking that quick, is if you have some heavy clutch installed, and sit at every redlight you hit with the clutch mashed the whole time the light is red.
 
Even discussing rebuild before you know what's wrong is putting the cart before the horse. It isn't really worth discussing until you need to. I thought you were at least going to grab the crank pulley and see if it moved. At the very least you might have something objective.
 
Even discussing rebuild before you know what's wrong is putting the cart before the horse. It isn't really worth discussing until you need to. I thought you were at least going to grab the crank pulley and see if it moved. At the very least you might have something objective.

I did by hand(posted it the other thread). Got results earlier but I wanted to verify what we seen was what it was(before I posted) and it is walk. Contacted the shop and they are going to handle it as long as I get the motor back to them. The good thing is that the shop is willing to help with whatever the problem is. Thanks guys for the support.
 
Well we pulled the motor apart today and the block is shot. The crank hit the block and the oil pump is toast also. The shop sent me new bearings and another crank balanced ready to go, but since the block is shot what should I do? The guy working on the car now says the rods look somewhat ok(may need reconditoning) and I should get new rings for the pistons. What do you guys think I should do?
 
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