RRE Downpipe install (with Apexi N1 catback already installed)

Hey guys, this article is to show you how to install a Road Race Engineering Downpipe w/ test pipe onto an already installed Apexi N1 Catback system with many pictures. First off, this is not a complicated process if you take your time, I am just trying to tell you guys the step by step instructions on how to install this downpipe as well as some problems that you may encounter. So here we go:

Here is the downpipe and the package it came in:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here is the downpipe, test pipe, gaskets, bolts and nuts all laid out:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Close up of the downpipe:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hardware:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Measurements

Testpipe/End of Downpipe (hard to tell in the picture but it is a true 3"):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

O2 housing connection:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

1.) First up, jack up the car and safely support it with jack stands. I suggest before you do anything, spray PB Blaster on the bolts that connects the downpipe to the O2 housing and also the bolts that connect the stock downpipe to the Apexi N1 cat-back system:

HINT: What I did was spray the places (meaning spray them like no tomorrow) and let it sit for about 1 hour. Then, after 1 hour is up, spray the places again and let it sit for 2 hours. Then, right before you go and start breaking the bolts loose, spray it again one more time. With this method, I did not even need a breaker bar and the bolts came off VERY easy.

Here is the stuff you need:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here (circuled in red) are the places you want to spray with PB Blaster and when finished spraying, un-bolt the nuts that secure the downpipe. Also don't forget to pry off the rubber hangers that secure the cat:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

There is another bolt on the other side that you can't see that you should spray and then unbolt:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also, you need to dis-connect the grounding strap from the cat heat shield. On mine (you can see in the pic) was rusted on there pretty bad. So, I ended just cutting around it (or just ripping it off, in my case since it was so rusted on there pretty good, it just fell apart) More on this later...:

 

[kmoore]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now after you get the grounding strap off, double check and make sure that all the rubber hangers are off. And then pull the downpipe (with cat connected). This is what it should look like when pulled. Nothing much really:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

'

Here are some side by side pictures of the two downpipes (I think you can tell which one is which):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Next step would be to transfer the rubber hangers from the stock cat to the test pipe "metal hangers" (NOTE: notice the angle of the "metal hanger" and the how the rubber hangers connect to the "metal hangers"):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Once the rubber hangers have been transfered now it's time to start installing the RRE downpipe. DON'T bolt up the test-pipe to the downpipe just yet.

What I did was start at the O2 housing FIRST and then worked my way back (towards the back of the car).

Position the gasket inbetween the O2 housing and downpipe. (I used a little black RTV to make sure I had an air-tight seal)

Now, this was my only "problem" with this downpipe installation. Although, I wouldn't even call it a "problem" because there was a simple fix. You will notice that when you drop the old downpipe from the O2 housing, there are STUDS that are in the O2 housing NOT bolts. So, either you could do the double lock nut trick to get the the studs out, but if you do this you have to take off the heat shield and possibly the actual O2 sensor to get enough room to drop the new bolts down through the O2 housing. Since this seemed like a little more work than I was willing to do, I just re-used the stock nuts that went with the studs (these nuts are re-used when you took off the stock downpipe). The only problem that I had with this was, the weld around the pipe that connected the pipe to the flange, gave me little room to tighten the nut with a socket. So, instead I used an open end wrench and tightened that thing down as much as I could (it gets a little cramped in that small of an area).

:EDIT: Now I have had this downpipe on for quite a few months now and I have had NO issues with that spot at all. I was a little nervous at first but it is holding up great with those stock nuts holding on the downpipe.

Here is a picture of the studs/o2 sensor (see how that shield/O2 sensor could get in the way when putting in those new bolts?):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also, just for a precaution, I jacked up the end of the downpipe (test-pipe end) so that the flex section wasn't holding the entire rest of the downpipe. I just didn't like the way the end of the downpipe was just "hanging" there so... I put a jack underneath it to support it.

Here are pictures of the stock nuts with the RRE downpipe (You can also see the jack underneath the end of the downpipe):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now with the O2 housing end tightened down. Move on to the test-pipe end. Now make sure that you place the gaskets in-between the ends of the flanges also for these ends as well. (that's kind of important)

 

[kmoore]

Now comes where you connect the rubber hangers that are connected to the test-pipe, to their "tabs" that are connected on the car. Make sure the the test-pipe is flipped correctly (look at the pictures).:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Little further out:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is just a picture for reference:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

After the rubber hangers are secured, bolt the test-pipe to the downpipe. After that is tightened down, bolt the test-pipe to the cat-back system. Don't forget about the gasket. And also don't forget to toss that "reducer" that Apexi sent to you so that you could bolt it up to your stock cat (we don't have one anymore remember?).

Now everything bolt and nut should be torqued down to specs. BUT! We still have to connect the grounding strap to the downpipe somehow. When I ripped off the old grounding strap from the rusted catalytic convertor cover, the "ring" was rusted on there too. So I cut that off and bought a new "ring" and crimped it on the end of the grounding strap. Make sure the ring is big enough to slide onto the bolt that bolts the test-pipe to the downpipe. This is because I used that bolt to, both hold the grounding strap AND tighten down the downpipe to the test-pipe. Here are some pictures to explain it a little better:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Check to make sure that everything is tight again and you are DONE!

Conclusion: My first concern with this downpipe and testpipe was whether or not this test-pipe would throw a CEL. BUT! I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE THAT WHEN I TURNED ON THE CAR THERE WAS NO CEL!!!! That's right... testpipe+2nd O2 sensor= NO CEL! (for my car) This right there put a smile on my face. On top of this the car sounded GREAT! A little louder but A LOT deaper tone. When you "blip" or rev it up a little you can hear a faint sucking sound and that really sounds unique.

Test Drive: Throttle response was improved as well as spool time. The turbo spooled a little sooner and reached full boost quicker. At WOT is when you can really HEAR the difference. I would suggest NOT to drive by a cop when doing this "test". Just a thought. I could really tell more of a difference with this downpipe/test pipe than the cat-back system. But with the Apexi N1 and RRE downpipe w/ test-pipe combo, you CAN NOT go wrong at all. I am 100% happy with this product and on top of that, customer service over at Road Race was great! I would recommend anyone to this downpipe. Absolutely LOVE IT!! Hope this can get you started and if you have anymore questions PM me, I'm on here all the time. Happy boosting

- Kyle