Rotor questions

[Enki]

I saw this deal (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1305122#post1305122) on the front page and am considering buying it. I searched through the forums a bit to find which kind of rotor (slotted, drilled etc.) would provide the best performance and it seems like alot of people say that blanks are actually best overall. However most of the threads I found were pretty old.

So my questions are:

1. Do slotted or drilled rotors perform any better than blanks?
2. If so, which type is best? slotted, cross-drilled, dimple-drilled or a combination?
3. Is the link above a good deal?
4. Would I even notice the difference as opposed to stock replacements?

Thanks for the help

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Do slotted or drilled rotors perform any better than blanks?

in my opinion the slotted would be the best. they will give you more surface area to help keep the rotors cool. plus they will scrape the 'glaze' from heat build-up of the pads.

If so, which type is best? slotted, cross-drilled, dimple-drilled or a combination?

slotted, i personally do not like drilled or dimpled rotors because they have a tendancy to stress crack. sure there are companies that make a good set of drilled rotors (bear, brimbo), but at what cost. unless you are making a paycheck from your car, why spend the money (and it will be a lot)? you would be better off with a set of aem/power slot big brakes (11.7f/11.5r), rebuilt calipers and a good set of pads (ebc greenstuff is my preferred choice, but whichever).

Is the link above a good deal?

would need to know more (mainly what size rotors, probably stock), but at first glance it would not work for me. the reason you have brake fade is mainly from pad material, when you upgrade your pads (which is done in your kit) you can now brake more and harder before the brakes start to fade because the pads can tolorate the heat better. however the stock rotors (10.2 rough f/r) can not take the heat that the pads are now trying to put into them and the fronts will start to stress crack (if you drive like i do, 5-6 plus trips to the autocross plus many backroad excursions = factory brakes do not handle it). so you will need bigger rotors. and then do not forget the rubber goods in the calipers (at least a rebuild kit or buy ones already rebuilt), they have been heated up greatly right along with the pads and rotors and probably need to be replaced also. the braided lines will also make a noticable difference in pedal 'feel'.

Would I even notice the difference as opposed to stock replacements?

of course you would, you would be getting better than factory pads (a plus even though i am not a fan of metal master pads) plus the braided line. they would 'feel' totally different. the rotors will probably be stock diameter plus extra for slotting (probably extra for cross drilling also, but would not reccomend).

just depends on what you want to do with your car. do you want it a little better than factory? then $450 is not a bad price (but check the rotors size). but if you want brakes that will put you through the windshield if you do not have your sealbelt on (just spent $628 on 4 powerslot plus rotors with relocation brackets, $230 on 4 calipers, and $110 on pads: total - $968) already had the braided lines.


http://www.buybrakes.com/powerslot/power-slot-plus.html

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=EBC&model=Greenstuff+brake+pads


jim

 

[ACM]

2G AWD brakes are heat sink mass limited. That is to say they overheat easily due to an inability to absorb or shed heat energy quickly enough.

Anything you do to reduce the brakes' ability to shed heat will hurt you - and drilling holes is as bad as it gets, worse that skimming the rotors. Slotting is bad, but not as bad.

Modern street pads neither outgas nor glaze, so these are not issues to be considered - indeed if your current pads suffer either of these maladies, simply replace the pads with a quality brand.

Opinons vary on quality street pads - my own preference is Porterfield R4S - but so long as you pick a quality pad your issues (with blank rotors) will go away. Competition use is an entirely different world.

If you are not suffering any braking issues currently, replace your parts with anything readily to hand and you'll probably be fine, assuming the stock components were not close to their thermal limits.

If you do experience occasional 'hard pedal fade', then choose blank rotors and "good" street pads. If your problems are 'soft pedal fade', then flush the hydraulic fluid, that alone may well solve your problems.

Charles

 

[FORMONTOYA]

2G AWD brakes are heat sink mass limited. That is to say they overheat easily due to an inability to absorb or shed heat energy quickly enough.

agreed, true with most cars rolling off the assembly line (that the average man can afford).

Anything you do to reduce the brakes' ability to shed heat will hurt you - and drilling holes is as bad as it gets, worse that skimming the rotors. Slotting is bad, but not as bad.

agree with the first part. the purpose of cross drilling and slotting rotors is to give more surface area (for cooling) to the rotors, thus increasing heat dissipation (sp?). agree that drilling rotors is a bad thing on a street car simply because most people do not check the condition of thier car on a regular basis and stress cracks will develope in the rotors undetected until something very bad goes wrong (rotors exploding a bad thing). slotting rotors is not as bad because the slot does not extend through the rotor (but allows for more surface area for cooling).

Modern street pads neither outgas nor glaze, so these are not issues to be considered - indeed if your current pads suffer either of these maladies, simply replace the pads with a quality brand.

disagree (old but still applies):

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/brake_performance.html#Brake Fade

If you are not suffering any braking issues currently, replace your parts with anything readily to hand and you'll probably be fine, assuming the stock components were not close to their thermal limits.

agreed, however take a good look at your goals. is your car a grocery getter, street/ 1/4 mile track, any autocross going on. all plays in on what you should get.


my .02

jim