Rotor & Pad Issues

[roadrunner2176]

This is straight from Hawk.

Burnishing Instructions

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

Hera are a few other bed-in procedures for a few other brake manufacturers.
http://www.topbrakes.com/faq.cfm

Personally I would use carbotech brake pads.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/overview.html

 

[Todd TCE]

He's looking at an overheating issue guys.

The outer most radius of a rotor runs the hottest. It also does the majority of work. Hence why racing pads are long and skinny. Anyhow what you see here is a pad at the limit of it's functional heat range and pad material "pulling" from the plate or breaking down. Note the amount of smear in the expansion/vent slot in fact. It's balling up in between the pad and rotor and like a rock- scoring the surface.

Changing rotors won't make much difference as both will be the same mathematical values and mass. And none are really directional for improved air flow- which may have helped here.

You need;
A new set of generic rotors.
Pads that meet the application requirements.
Shorter time sessions.
Less weight in the car.
Or a big brake kit where the values of all this are raised to prevent or slow such problems.

 

[GreenGSX]

He's looking at an overheating issue guys.

The outer most radius of a rotor runs the hottest. It also does the majority of work. Hence why racing pads are long and skinny. Anyhow what you see here is a pad at the limit of it's functional heat range and pad material "pulling" from the plate or breaking down. Note the amount of smear in the expansion/vent slot in fact. It's balling up in between the pad and rotor and like a rock- scoring the surface.

Changing rotors won't make much difference as both will be the same mathematical values and mass. And none are really directional for improved air flow- which may have helped here.

You need;
A new set of generic rotors.
Pads that meet the application requirements.
Shorter time sessions.
Less weight in the car.
Or a big brake kit where the values of all this are raised to prevent or slow such problems.

I agree. Those brakes got to hot. Bigger brakes and track pads are the way to go but if you are on a budget just get the pads and fab up some brake cooling ducts. They make all the difference in the world.