Rod cap came loose, just need one piston?

[shift2drift38]

Well I just bought a 97 GST 5speed. I knew it was "locked up" and when i popped off the oil pan i saw why. Cyl. 4 rod cap came off and of course was stuck in the crank, the bearings.. I am going to swap the crank with a 93 NT 7bolt crank, and OEM 2g piston and rods (that's what the rebuild was). Anyways, everything else minus the metal shavings i've cleaned looks good surprisingly.. i haven't got to see the bottom half of that cylinder to make sure it didnt smack it and break the piston and yadda yadda.. anyways, has anyone ever just dropped in (actually "up") one piston and rod from the oil pan up? I'd really rather just chance it ### I dont want to pull another 4g63.....i dont have the room in the garage to build another one >.>... just asking. Any input would be great!

 

[BLINKY619]

its worth a try but it looks like ull have consequences i would rebuild the whole thing if it wasnt damaged that bad, i know you dont have time or space but if you want to be on the safe side thats what i would do...!! good luck and keep us updated on how its going...!

 

[2slow4now]

If its a 7 bolt the oil squirters will be in the way. It is cast in the block under the cylinder. Heres a pic of a block cut off at the bottom of the cylinder so you can see the squirter. http://images.google.com/imgres?img...1&rlz=1T4ADBS_enUS324US324&ndsp=20&tbs=isch:1

 

[donniekak]

You are going to have to pull the head.

 

[Achelea]

Turbo cars have oil squirters on the bottom anyways. If you have good jacks, you can rebuild the motor with it inside the car, assuming the block doesn't need surfaced. But how did the piston break? The connecting rod or wrist pin gave way?

You can pull the head off and pop the end caps off at the bottom and pull them out of the top. A mechanic showed me you cut a circle peice of cardboard and use the piston to push it down flat so you don't hit the oil squirter and you can hone the cylinders out.

Looks like a convienent time to do bearings too.

 

[shift2drift38]

well the reason i was going from the bottom was to replace the crank too.. but from what i'm hearing, the oil squirters are going to prevent this from happening? so, instead... i'm going to have to pull the head and go that route? i mean that way is still ALOT better than pulling the trans and removing the girdle. now will anything involving the turbo have to come off? well, of course the headers will, but anything else attached the head i should know about? thanks for the quick reply guys, i'll keep this updated until i get it running. thanks a ton!

the crank isn't TOO bad.... but if i wanted to pull it too, will the squirters interfere with that?

 

[2slow4now]

No you can get the crank out the bottom. Did you look at the picture of the squirters? They get oil feed off the top of the main bearings. So they are above your crank. When you pull the pan and dig in there you will see. It didn't come up right here it is again http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/335801-my-7-bolt-didnt-come-oil-squirters.html

 

[shift2drift38]

Ok I see it now, thanks! Ok, so basically, I can pull the crank from the bottom, and i should pull the head to pull the pistons and rods?

 

[2slow4now]

Yep you got it! good luck. Just make sure to look really close for metal shavings. It would royally suck to grind up your work in a day.

 

[BogusSVO]

you will have to pop the head off to get the pistions out and back in

 

[shift2drift38]

Heh well the bent stud on the rod came into play, if i cant drop it from the oil pan, and i cant pull it up from the top... has anyone ever seen this and if so what'd u guys do? it's lookin like im gonna need a grinder to cut off the stud.....and when i say bent, i mean it's bent a perfect 90 degrees outward from the rod bearing... any insight would help, got the head off easily, and this is the only hold up. ANY help would be appreciated.

 

[1995gsx20g]

as far as removing the crank from the bottom. what about the flywheel bolts??

is the trans out?

 

[shift2drift38]

I'll be able to get all that off no problem.. just trying to figure out how to safely remove this rod. I'm not concerned on damaging the crank, it's trashed. Hence why I'm replacing it . The trans is not out yet. Not until I get this rod out.

 

[1995gsx20g]

i posted that because it may just be easier to pull the motor and trans together. and work on a stand instead of your back but that's just my .02

but then again this is how 4 month rebuilds start because you replace everything that was bothering you while your at it.. best of luck

 

[shift2drift38]

yeah really not looking to do that, but anyone else have an idea? or do these 'studs' twist out somehow?

 

[shift2drift38]

Ok, well I took an electric grinder, got it cut about 3/4 of the way and vice grips did the rest . New pistons, rods, rings, headgasket. Now I have 2 questions before firing it.

1: I only saw ONE reply on here saying the head bolts (stock 2g 4g63) are to be torqued at 54...loosend all the way....retightend in sequence to 15 + 1/4 turn + 1/4 turn.... I just dealt with rod cap nuts being said out of my chilton to be 14.5 ft lbs. and it just so happens the start of this rebuild came from a failed torque of the cap nuts.....aside from the one already off and broke... the other 3 i was able to undo with my finger tips with almost no resistence, I guess I'm a little uneasy that the real torque specs for rod caps of 30+ ft lbs is more than head bolts...especially being turbo. You guys build these things, give a first time builder some insight

2: It's time to pull the crank down, and I have a perfectly good 1g 7bolt block. Could I just as easily put the crank, main bearings, and the girdle from the 1g N/T block on the 2gT block? they are basically the same minus the pistons... and of course the turbo.... im just led to believe the 1g 7bolts were manufactured better, but I'd rather not jump on the "lets beat a dead horse *coughcrankwalk* topic . Any insight on that would be great. Getting started as soon as I wake up.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You can't just swap out the girdle, unless you have the block line bored. If you cut something in your engine with an electric grinder, it's time to take the block out and hot tank it. Besides, you can't swap the crank with the transmission and engine in the car, so it's about time to pull the block and have it built by a professional. There's too many little things that you might not know, or even know to ask about, and any one of those thing will cause failure such as a rod flying off or rings not sealing.

Just my $0.02