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Roadworthy after timing & cam install?

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brandnew161

10+ Year Contributor
215
2
Mar 30, 2009
Horseheads, New York
i just finshed working on the tsi...very long night. Idk what was worse, listening to the same songs over and over on the radio for 8 hours or the stress and suspense when it comes to cranking the motor over for the first time. Anyways, long story short, I installed cams, gears, and retimed the motor. Timing marks lined up after several hand cranked rotations so I assumed it was all set. Put the the timing cover back on, then accessories, etc. Hand cranked the motor some more and still no problems. Turned the key......and ........car started up perfectly. Minus the tune out of wack from the cams and all that but no bent valves or jumped teeth. HUGE sigh of relief since I've never done a timing job before. Timing marks still line up and the car seems to run fine. I couldnt drive the talon on the road because its not registered yet, but it will be tomorrow. I did drive it through the parking lot though. I just wanted to post these pieces of info and was hoping to get some feedback as to whether or not it is roadworthy. By roadworthy I mean is it worth my time to pay and have it put on the road, or fix the potential problems (if there are any) then register it. First of all, with the 272/272 cams the vacuum fluctuates between 15-18 Hg. Also, the lifters are loud as hell. I bled them all of course, but they are still loud after revving the motor and letting it sit for over ten minutes. Will it take more time for them to fill back up with oil or what? Note* I am still using stock retainers and springs for now.* The car dies every now and then, either when its idling or when trying to give it gas to move. I tuned the car with the safcii and maft, so it is normal to have to rework the tune quite a bit with these cams correct?

****I meant to post a video of the car idling so you can hear the tick and what not, but I cant seem to get the vid off my phone without it freezing. I'll post it up later when I can get it to work properly.****


The pics are just of the timing before I put the cover and accessories back on.
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I just got my car back on the road after a bunch of valvetrain stuff (like 3 hours ago). The new lifters may take a bit to fully stop clicking. I still had some clicking when I left for a 2.5 hour drive from Pittsburgh to State College, PA and they've all stopped. The car purrs now.

I did:
-Evo 8 Spring and Retainers
-Revised Lifters
-Comp 101200 cams
-Fidanza Cam Gears
-New Valve Stem Seals

So just give the lifters a little bit of time to fully prime. You may have to drive it for a little bit.

That's also where my vacuum is.
 
Installing cams is not very hard. But it does require focus and a little patience. FSM is a must when installing. And spinning motor over at least two complete revolutions is a must too. Good job on the install. The lifters will chatter for a little while. After a couple test drive if they don't quiet down than I would investigate the problem. I'm on a 264/272 hks setup and see around 12". If you disconnected the battery for the install, the ECU may need to relearn idle settings too.
 
Installing cams is not very hard. But it does require focus and a little patience. FSM is a must when installing. And spinning motor over at least two complete revolutions is a must too. Good job on the install. The lifters will chatter for a little while. After a couple test drive if they don't quiet down than I would investigate the problem. I'm on a 264/272 hks setup and see around 12". If you disconnected the battery for the install, the ECU may need to relearn idle settings too.

I don't see how the FSM is a must. A simple Haynes manual has the torque specs for every bolt you need when it comes to swapping cams. And the VFAQ has several very nice timing tech articles.

A cam swap is an afternoon/evening job if you're competent and have done the timing once before.
 
I don't see how the FSM is a must. A simple Haynes manual has the torque specs for every bolt you need when it comes to swapping cams.

I agree as far as dropping in cams, but it definitely has advantages in other areas. There is MUCH more information in the FSM and factory tech manuals than in Haynes and Chiltons, and it's much more accurate.

Just my .02 of course. :)
 
I agree as far as dropping in cams, but it definitely has advantages in other areas. There is MUCH more information in the FSM and factory tech manuals than in Haynes and Chiltons, and it's much more accurate.

Just my .02 of course. :)

X2 :thumb: The FSM is much more complete and the Hanyes/Chiltons manuals have had misinformation in them also. Also the wiring diagrams in the FSM are more accurate.
 
I agree as far as dropping in cams, but it definitely has advantages in other areas. There is MUCH more information in the FSM and factory tech manuals than in Haynes and Chiltons, and it's much more accurate.

Just my .02 of course. :)

X2 :thumb: The FSM is much more complete and the Hanyes/Chiltons manuals have had misinformation in them also. Also the wiring diagrams in the FSM are more accurate.

Oh. I was only referring to a cam swap. They're great for other jobs, especially the wiring stuff, but a cam swap isn't too complicated, and all the info for it is in a Haynes manual. You should at least pick up one of those.
 
Very good information here....I am going up to check out a 1G with 272 cams and having some running problems that sound to me (haven't seen it myself, only from the owner) to be timing related.

What exactly does the vacuum being off mean?
 
has anybody installed fp2x cams cause when I called fp they said they discontinued them because people didnt know how to install them or degree them right is there a different way or do i have to degree them them a video on how to install is on youtube but is for an evo
 
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