ECMlink [RESOLVED] ISC position won't move to 30

[SNAKE_15]

I tried adjusting my BISS screw, but no matter which way I turn it, my ISC stays at 65. I already tried waiting five minutes for everything to adjust but nothing.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Your TPS is way off as well. If your throttle body has not been rebuilt before, I would recommend checking for leaks at the shaft seals. The below videos are quite helpful to get your feet wet.

Start here:

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[Dhan]

I'm at work so I can't see your log, but here are some thoughts:

• +1 on what 2gmitsu said, your TPS needs to be at .63v at idle. Either adjust it by hand or use the compensation tool in ECMLink.
• Are you using the checkbox to ground the diagnostic pin in ECMLink when you adjust the BISS?
• Have you checked to see if the idle speed controller (ISC) itself is functional? [video link below shows you how to test ISC]

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[SNAKE_15]

Your TPS is way off as well. If your throttle body has not been rebuilt before, I would recommend checking for leaks at the shaft seals. The below videos are quite helpful to get your feet wet

The only reason my TPS is off was because I was told to reset my TPS adjustments back to stock so I can set my ISC position correctly first. Below is what my settings looked like before messing with my BISS screw and resetting my TPS values to stock.

I'm at work so I can't see your log, but here are some thoughts:

• +1 on what 2gmitsu said, your TPS needs to be at .63v at idle. Either adjust it by hand or use the compensation tool in ECMlink.
• Are you using the checkbox to ground the diagnostic pin in ECMlink when you adjust the BISS?
• Have you checked to see if the idle speed controller (ISC) itself is functional? [video link below shows you how to test ISC]

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I was confused on this too. Do I check both check boxes or just the diagnostic pin before adjusting my BISS? When I checked both boxes, my ISC was at 9 but still didn't move when turning BISS screw.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Here is more to read up on:
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge

I would test the isc via info given to see if it operates when ignition is on. I would then start from scratch. Check mechanical stuff first and boost leak test, then move on to idle tune. Throttle % should be 0 unless you were on the throttle a touch as the idle screw reads 0.

 

[Dhan]

i was confused on this too. Do i check both check boxes or just the diagnostic pin before adjusting my biss? when i checked both boxes, my isc was at 9 but still didnt move when turning biss screw.

I assume you're referring to the check boxes that are under the "Misc" tab on the right hand side?

The first check box is for stabilizing the timing so you can set your mechanical timing with a timing gun. Leave it unchecked for the BISS changes.

Under that check box is the one you need for the BISS adjustment. It says something along the lines of "ground diagnostic pin to ECU"

 

[SNAKE_15]

I assume you're referring to the check boxes that are under the "Misc" tab on the right hand side?

The first check box is for stabilizing the timing so you can set your mechanical timing with a timing gun. Leave it unchecked for the BISS changes.

Under that check box is the one you need for the BISS adjustment. It says something along the lines of "ground diagnostic pin to ECU"

Correct. When I adjusted my biss with these two checked, my isc stayed at 9. So I set my isc at 30 with the diagnostic pin checked and once that's done, I uncheck it?

 

[Dhan]

Correct. However....

Verify you have no boost leaks or vacuum leaks first.

Have you confirmed that the ISC works? It is easy to test. Just two 8mm bolts, test the pins for resistance, and you're done.

If anything is off, it will cause an unstable idle and no amount of BISS adjustment will fix it.

 

[SNAKE_15]

Correct. However....

Verify you have no boost leaks or vacuum leaks first.

Have you confirmed that the ISC works? It is easy to test. Just two 8mm bolts, test the pins for resistance, and you're done.

If anything is off, it will cause an unstable idle and no amount of BISS adjustment will fix it.

I'll test the actual isc first and do a blt. I never had any idle problems so I don't think it's broken but I will check anyways.

 

[blizz99]

I have the same issue with the ISCPos being at 9 with the boxes checked. I've tested the isc and BLT and everything checks out fine.

 

[SNAKE_15]

Here is more to read up on:
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge

I would test the isc via info given to see if it operates when ignition is on. I would then start from scratch. Check mechanical stuff first and boost leak test, then move on to idle tune. Throttle % should be 0 unless you were on the throttle a touch as the idle screw reads 0.

I'm at work right now, but I'll check later tonight. My throttle stays at 3% unless I do the tps adjust which was recommended on the demos. I know it works because if I tap on the gas, the isc position increases.

 

[SNAKE_15]

UPDATE: I just tested my ISC and each coil came out good, between 33-34 which should be normal. I also used the diagnostic pin box only and even after adjusting my BISS, it still stays at 65. If I use any throttle, my ISC position increases.

I don't have a boost leak because it boosts or actually spikes to 20. My vacuum reads at 10 at idle which is also normal for Kelfords 272.

New update: Fired my car back up again and now my ISC moves down when adjusting my BISS. I guess my connector for the ISC was not in all the way right and I probably fixed it when I tested the pins on my ISC and reconnected everything properly.

 

[Dhan]

Cool. Glad you got it squared away.