[RESOLVED] fuel filter question

[syncere129]

well i just found out that the previous owner upgraded the fuel pump to a walbro 255lph fuel pump. so know i want to upgrade the fuel lines,filter, and add a afpr just trying to research the parts before buying..ive been looking thru this site but either i cant find the answer or im blind as ****...can some one tell me what the stock size in -an would be for the bottom line going into the fuel filter please thank you....

 

[DSM_PWR]

Stock lines are a bit smaller than -6an, i would guess if they had -5an, it would be equivalent...

If your looking to upgrade, 1st think about what your main powergoals are...

If your going for only around 300hp-400hp you'll be fine with stock fuel llines and just get a new fuel filter..
Your better off spending money on other mods... unless your lines are some how rusted/clogged/ etc..

The AFPR is a great mod to get, both fuelab and aeromotive make great products for our cars...

 

[rEclipserGST]

Agreed. Any bolt on AFPR is good just about. Make sure you do not get a used one though. No ebay either. But you do not need to upgrade the lines.

Rewire the fuel pump, buy an AFPR, and call it a day.

 

[boostngsx]

Take a look at my thread from when I did my fuel system.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/308235-1g-fpr-tank-kits.html

 

[syncere129]

ok thanks guys

dsm pwr--yes im looking to get as close to 400hp..right now im just doing bolt on parts for now...waiting for more cash to get a freinkenstein engine from dsmgraveyard..you can check my profile for already installed mods and see if im on the right path


reclipser gst--- im rewiring the fuel pump today just recieved the rewire kit from stm


boostngsx--- i tried the link you put in the message it didnt work

Will it be ok to run denso 720cc injectors with my setup.i have dsmlink v3 version so i figured will im still putting the engine back together i might as well get a new ring set and install the injectors while im upgrading the fuel system, from the top of the fuel filter all the way to the return line...keeping stock fuel rail and getting new stock fuel filter,,,and should i still use the stock return line coming from the afpr regulator or run new ss line from there also??

 

[Dsmj89]

You can go ahead and put the new injectors, just make sure to tune afterwards to compensate for the injector change.
Since you will be working around that area you might as well do it all right at once and get yourself stainless lines from filter to rail and a complete afpr kit if you don't have one already.

 

[syncere129]

ok is there a stainless steel line for the return...and if so does anyone have pics of this installed already?

 

[Dsmj89]

Have fun. http://slowboyracing.com/home.php?cat=87

 

[kenamond]

I just upgraded all of this stuff. I ordered the Fuelab AFPR kit and Fuelab filter+line (tank-to-rail) kit from Street Tuner Motorsports (STM).

The stock lines are thinner than 6AN, and the filter is more restrictive. Someone (forget the site, maybe RRE or stevetek?) did a comparison of stock 2g fuel pump flow rates between stock lines/filter and 6AN lines aftermarket filter, and it was a 5x flow increase, so it makes a difference. I was leaning out on the top end at 15psi with a rewired stock pump and stock lines. Now I don't. Some high-end knock went away, too.

Anyway, it was $450 for both kits, but you also need to order a special Saginaw fitting from Earl's (or from Earl's via JEGS) to connect the stock fuel pump assembly tube to the AN line. The kit doesn't have that adapter, and you can't connect the stock pump assembly to AN without it. It's blue. The Stevetek article gives the part number, and I've found it from a search on this site.

Mounting the AFPR is a PITA unless you've stripped some emissions stuff from the engine bay. I found room in front of the brake fluid reservoir and fabbed a simple bracket. I posted pics in a thread recently.

I highly recommend buying the Koul Tool 6AN fitting tool for $40 (got mine from jegs.com) if you're not going with pushlock fittings. It makes building AN braided SS lines a breeze.

If you get the STM tank-to-rail kit, I'd ask them if they can substitute one of the straight fittings with a 90* fitting. The bottom of the fuel filter really deserves a 90* elbow; a straight fitting makes it a major pain to get the Fuelab filter mounted in the stock location. If you get a different vendor's kit, get 1 straight (at the pump), one 90* (bottom of the filter), one 45* (top of filter), and one straight (into rail). You could also use a 90* on the rail if you want to run the fuel line between the motor and your UICP. If you go between the UICP and battery, a straight fitting will work.

For the AFPR side, the normal 90* fitting off the rail is very tight and requires you to cut the corner of the plastic timing cover. I've heard they have a smaller-radius 90* fitting that takes up less space. I don't know if there is a Shadow Series version of that, though (check Jegs.com). If you have a 1g rail, it's shorter on the AFPR end, and the clearance isn't as much of a problem. Cutting the cover isn't a big deal, but it's still worth knowing.