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[RESOLVED] Custom Sub Box? Wood Type?

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well im pretty sure mine will be plenty loud i will be going with power aqoustick pw3's the 15's are 2800 watts the 12's are 2600 and the 10's are 2000 and will be powerd by 3 lanzer 4000 watt amps and a couple caps and prob a big alternator LOL

damn, dont brake the glass in the hatch ### ive seen it on youtube, a guy had two 15's and 3 12's in his 94 eclipse and he had it really load and the glass shattered
 
well im pretty sure mine will be plenty loud i will be going with power aqoustick pw3's the 15's are 2800 watts the 12's are 2600 and the 10's are 2000 and will be powerd by 3 lanzer 4000 watt amps and a couple caps and prob a big alternator LOL

caps are useless, go with a bigger alternator a deep cycle battery such as kinetik, run 0 awg power from the alt to the battery, 0 awg ground from the battery to the chassis, 0 awg ground from the motor to the batt. car audio is my specialty, i know what i'm talking about.
 
Since when are caps useless? I find them very useful. Proven in many tests! I've done plenty of tests. Car running tests with and without caps. Car not running tests with and without caps. High output alternator, Deep Cycle Battery. Caps make a huge difference, no matter what charging system or battery system you have.
 
I "read" from car audio sites, that caps are useless.. I used mine mostly for show. I didn't notice a difference with or without it.

A good way to tell a DSMer about a cap in car audio.. think of it like the extended clutch slave rod.. just a bandage for the real problem that doesn't want to be taken on straight up..

In car audio case.. "The Big 3"

there are many on the12volt.. here are just a few of MANY..

capacitor, cap
choosing a cap, cap
can anyone recommend a good capacitor?, cap

don't kill the messenger..

in short pretty much what jayiszraw said
 
Everyone will always have an opinion. From my experience and tests of installing custom car audio for years and years in thousands of cars, and my own, I think Caps are very useful.

My old 93 Accord had a Bosch 200amp Alternator with a Optima YellowTop Deep Cycle. 800w x 1 @ 1ohm on some 12" Kicker CVS's. Car running lights would still dim, not alot, but my eyes noticed it. Voltage would drop. With a 2farad cap installed, I didn't see any light flicker, but still saw a little power drop, using a digital volt meter.

I then installed an Isolator and sent the yellowtop to the trunk, and installed an Oddysey in the engine bay. Which this ended up that the car drained nothing from the yellowtop. With bass pounding and no Cap, voltage would still drop during bass hits. With Cap, hardly any voltage drop.

My Talon. Single 12" CVT @ 400w @ 2ohms, Optima Redtop Battery, Fresh Rebuilt Alternator... just a small setup. Lights would flicker pretty heavily. Sometimes a light would turn off from the voltage drop during bass hits. With a 2 Farad cap, no issues anymore!

Also I noticed with the cap, battery longitivity was enhanced. Could kill the battery, to where the car wont start, leave the car for a while, and the Cap would actually put some charge into the battery and boom, car would start. Its nice.
 
as i am to very good at audio its not my specialty but i still no what im talking about and caps help with lights but not what there used for. they are used for the amp so when the amp needs that burst of electricy then the cap has it insted of pulling of the alternator.
 
I suggest looking into fiberglass, it is very strong and light. I did a simple fiberglass enclosure to house 1 10" for the rock that I listen to and it weighes probably 4lbs and is rock solid. By molding it to the side I kept it from taking much if any of my trunk space and I invert mounted it so I would not need to use a speaker grill. I only have 180w rms going to it and I am very pleased with the sound. Guess I might as well post a pic:
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