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[RESOLVED] Can i drive with crankwalk?

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JMiller

15+ Year Contributor
684
1
Jun 30, 2007
Irmo, South Carolina
I'm pretty sure my car has crankwalk, but i cant just fix it overnight, so i was wondering what would happen if i were to drive it for another week until i got it fixed. :dsm:
 
thats a negative ghost rider i would never do that just because it is devastating to an engine mainly because you could possibly bend rods and scar your piston walls so i would not do it
 
Yes you can.... .if you have a spare replacement engine. Seriously, you'll do a ton of damage very quickly.
 
you can, but is it worth the risk of damaging your engine more then it already is or ruining it completely? or possiably breaking down?
 
Like stated above, you technically can drive it as is. But, you risk grenading the motor entirely, possibly to the point of no return. Do as you wish, but don't come back to us and ask "Why did my motor blow? I only drove X many miles with crankwalk."

Ultimately, the choice is yours and yours alone, so choose wisely. :talon:
 
Read that and listen to him because he hit the nail on the head.
 
Like stated above, you technically can drive it as is. But, you risk grenading the motor entirely, possibly to the point of no return. Do as you wish, but don't come back to us and ask "Why did my motor blow? I only drove X many miles with crankwalk."

Ultimately, the choice is yours and yours alone, so choose wisely. :talon:

+1

DSmDSmDSmDSmDSmDSm
 
Like stated above, you technically can drive it as is. But, you risk grenading the motor entirely, possibly to the point of no return. Do as you wish, but don't come back to us and ask "Why did my motor blow? I only drove X many miles with crankwalk."

Ultimately, the choice is yours and yours alone, so choose wisely. :talon:

hey man dont drive the car do like me and get a beater so when your baby is hurt u have backup to get to work ...and u can repair the damage ...:thumb::talon::talon:
 
I drove mine 50+ miles to the shop after it crankwalked. Had to get the entire thing rebuilt. Dont do it unless you have no other choice
 
Thanks for all the replies, I do have another engine to put in but i was just going to use the bottom end(shortblock) from it. I figured driving it would be bad, I just wanted to know how bad. Oh and i do have a beater car (97 RS), but i had to replace the head and forgot about it when i bought the GST and am now missing a lot of bolts (exh. header and int mani bolts). But thanks again I'm going to get to work swapping shortblocks this weekend.:dsm::thumb:

One more quick qeustion, what exactly is messed up to cause this(crankshaft,block, or both(i don't need detail) and i just had a new clutch installed, will driving it with new clutch maybe 25m do any damage to my clutch setup.

Thanks:dsm:
 
Having to depress the clutch to start the car can contribute to crankwalk. If you bypass the clutch safety switch your only helping your motor.

Crankwalk can have many other variables too, especially on the 7bolts
 
I would love for it to not be crank walk but as of now thats about the only thing it can be. No i haven't measured anything yet but everything clutch related has been replaced and i have a few of the main symptoms. Clutch pedal pulls it self to the floor on hard left turn, when at full boost i cant shift from 3rd to 4th without it missing and grinding, and(not really sure if this is crank walk related) when stopped i cant shift into reverse with the clutch pushed in i have to let it out some and hit the gas to get it in reverse, this seems to have started happening when i realized i had some type of clutch or crank walk issue. If anything else could be causing these problems please let me know because i really don't want to have to swap blocks.

Thanks:dsm:
 
It sounds like your just guessing what your problem is. If you suspect crankwalk, measure it.

With all the problems you just listed off about shifting issues, it sounds like the majority of your problems are within the tranny:cool:.
 
It sounds like your just guessing what your problem is. If you suspect crankwalk, measure it.

With all the problems you just listed off about shifting issues, it sounds like the majority of your problems are within the tranny:cool:.

yeah those all sound like they could be tranny related
 
Wouldn't it be a hard RIGHT turn that makes the crank "walk" away from the transmission, causing the clutch to drop? The transmission is on the right on a turbo model.

If you want to, why not drive it until the rods all shoot out of the block, then just tow it home and swap the engine?

Heck I've seen engines keep running with at least one rod sticking through the block or pan. In theory you can run it until it locks solid. Just keep those RPMs up so it doesn't have a chance to do so. LOL Do you have a full weight flywheel?

And a really really really good filter element spun/woven by GOD on your turbo oil feed line?
 
Well after all these comments i decided to to the turning test(if you can call it that again) left and right. So i found an empty lot and was practically drifting to the left while tapping the clutch and did the same to the right. them did a slow hard turn both ways tapping the clutch and nothing, the pedal stayed stiff the whole time. So when my dad gets here I'm going to bleed the clutch again and see if it has air in it, if so I'm going to order a complete SS clutch line(MC to SC) and see if that fixes my randomly soft, pulls itself to the floor pedal. If not then i really don't now what it could be. Oh and i have a ACT 2100 w/ ACT street light flywheel.(Not sure if that would help someone come up with a conclusion)

Thanks:dsm:
 
I was going to say, it sounded like a clutch related problem. As they say "crankwalk is over rated", so you really need to measure and be sure before you go on blaming it on crankwalk.

Oh, by the way, I will recommend speed bleeders to anyone. They are probably my favorite thing I've bought for my car.
 
Yeah i found out today that if i pump the pedal a few times it feels better, but i can make the pedal stick to the floor by gently tapping it about 4 times until its about 3/4 of the way down the it sucks it self to the floor. I did this in my driveway earlier. My dad thinks its a Master Cylinder problem because i have zero leaks. So I'm going to test some more things tomorrow and see what i can come up with. Quick question, how many of you have bought a new part that was defective from the store and had to replace it.
 
I have bought literally dozens of defective parts before. Keep in mind I buy auto parts at least twice a day on weekdays. Master cylinders are a common part to find defects in, especially reman units. Sometimes you find ones have slipped through, that someone crushed the bore by putting it in a vise.
 
Getting defective parts from an auto parts store is nothing new. I just hope that this is your problem instead of CW.

Measuring crank endplay though really isn't that bad, all you have to do is pull off your DP and oil pan. I'd do that asap so either you can start planning on how to deal with the problem or just put your mind at ease.
 
-Update- I replaced the master and slave cylinder again and bleed the system a lot again and the same thing is happening except now it doesn't pull itself to the floor its just super soft most of the time and i realized that the pedal shakes when i rev up and push it in and out or hold it half way in(did this in N of course) and the higher the RPMs get the more it shakes. So during this week i am going to drop the oil pan and measure the crank. Just to clarify, there shouldn't be any kind of movement back/forth and up/down with the crank right?
 
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