The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Replacing torn boot

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

vault415

20+ Year Contributor
75
0
Nov 5, 2002
I have some used 2G control arms with torn boots on them (upper, lower and compression). I bought replacement boots from my local dealer and now I'm looking into installing them. Do I need a chisel or flat head screwdriver to beat the old boot off? If I get the old boot off, is there any special way to press the new boot on?

As for the upper control arm, I have a new boot for that, and it came with a strange washer/clip. How do I go about installing that boot? Do I have to press the balljoint out to do it? I've read on here that you can replace the 2G upper control arm ball joint but I can't find a part number anywhere for it...only the entire upper assembly.
 
I just did this two days ago. Haha. I used a small screwdriver to pry off the old rubber boot off its seat. Replaced the grease with some fresh stuff. THen i used a larger socket that the boot could fit into to tap it on. Make sure the knuckle is pointing straight up so the socket goes on straight. Be careful not to tear the new boot. Overall a pretty easy task. Good Luck!
 
Oh i forgot to add you need to pop the ball joint to replace the seal. If the ball joint feels real loose then replace it but if its nice and stiff i wouldnt replace it. If you replace the ball joint your going to need an alignment.
 
im not understanding wallymans reply all that much.

in order to replace the boots on the half shafts you must take out the shaft.

place the shaft in a vise then take off the old boot, however you want.

clean it all then knock off the CV joint with a rubber mallet

clean again then slide the new boot on

then knock the CV joint back on and back the new boot with grease

then clamp and youre done.

if you got the split boots then take them back, DONT use the split boots
 
Well it sounded like he was replacing ball joint boots not cv boots. If hes replacing cv boots then yes he needs to pull the half shafts and split the knuckle to get the new boots on. To clamp the clips you need a special tool to compress the clips. I dont know what the tool is called.
 
I'm replacing the ball joint boots, not CV boots (in theory). So, is the process the same on a 2G as a 1G? Thanks.
 
This weekend I found that replacing a balljoint boot is really easy. I bought the new boots from the dealer, used a screwdriver and hammer to pry off the old boots, re-greased the joint, and pressed the new boot back on the balljoint. This was a very very simple procedure to fix the damage done by a pickle fork. This worked for both lower and the one upper boot.
 
Hello everyone.
Here is my question.
I am posting it in this thread because it is closest thread to my problem.

I need an advise on the CV boot replacement... on the rear axcel... Left outer boot to be precise...
I have the whole rear thing on my table at home: rear differential, and 2 axcels... Taken off the car...
The old boot is off.. need to disassemble the joint itself... Will I be able to knock it off as some ppl here suggested, or do i need something more serious?
I have all the parts that I need...
 
Last try before opening the new thread...
Has anyone had to do this kind of work before? C'mon, help me out... All I need is "yeah, it will do" or "Noway in hell dude!".
 
go to vfaq.com and you should find a very detailed procedure on boot replacement. You will need a pair of boot band pliers to crimp the bands. I bought one at Advance Auto for ~$10 and it worked fine.
You did not need to pull the differential- which you will see when you find the vfaq.
 
Steve_P
Thanks for answer. I was on vfaq, and I read the article about the boot replacement.
However, my question isn't how replace the boot. It is if the procedure for the rear axcels the same. I am guessing it is, but I need to double check. Especially after the conversation with the local mechanics who said that those few times he had to work on the CV boots for talons, he had to do some terrible perversions to get it working. Knocking off an outer thingy with the rubber hummer wasn't part of what he did.

As I said, I have the boot with grease, rings, etc in the box. As well I got the pliers from the store.

The reason for the rear differential to be on the table at home is that the one on the car needs to be replaced. I got used one from the junk yard, but some dumbass cut a boot on one side. Othervise it would've been installed on the car long time ago, and I would've moved to something else.
 
Go start a new thread because this one was about ball joint boots, not CV boots. On a side, I'd think the procedure would be the same for front and rear CV shafts, so there you have it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top