Replacing Head gasket soon ... need some pointers please.

[pneumagger]

OK, I'm going to be replacing the head gasket soon in my motor.
I've read everything I could get my hands on involving the task within the past week (including that backup shop manual people have been downloading).
However I still have a few questions I could not find specific answers for.

Background info:
- 1992 Talon TSI AWD has 45k original miles. No major engine mods, just some bolt-ons and driven @ ~14psi for the past few years.
- Timing belts (and I assume all the other "usuals") were replaced by previous owner about 15k miles ago before he sold it with OEM parts.
- Pretty vanilla mostly stock engine... still has BS, A/C, etc... never raced or overheated. Still runs very nicely but pushes coolant.
- I DO NOT plan on replacing or messing with timing parts. Just checking the tensioner and reinstalling the current belt. They should be all good until around 90k.


I plan on purchasing the head gasket kit from PD because I've read around here that it's good.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I understand PD sells basically OEM parts (Rock Products composite HG and all the other top end gaskets).
I will be using ARP headstuds, (probably from ebay or somewhere). I do plan on having the head pressure tested and (if needed) surfaced locally.

Questions I could not find answers to:
1) Where is the cheapest place to buy a shop manual for a 1g DSM? I think I'm good on info, but more knowlege never hurts.
2) Do I have to remove/disassemble the exhaust manifold & turbo assembly or can I just unbolt it and pull the head off the block?
-- I'd really like to not mess with all the turbo connections/gaskets & crap. I just want to pull and check the head, change the gasket and GTFO.
----I do realize I'll have to pull the intake, fuel system, and TB off the head. This shouldn't be such a headache I feel.
3) I have a ported 2g exhaust manifold on a 1g motor... will I need a 2g gasket or just use the 1g gasket in the kit?

 

[SFRacingGST]

You can disconnect the turbo from manifold so you don't have to take the turbo out of the car.. You can also leave the intake manifold, TB, and the CAS. The only gasket you should need to replace is the Head gasket. I would use the 35 dollar Fel pro composite one. Use that, with some copper spray and some ARP's... Replace the timing parts IMO are a must.. I would change out the hydrolic tensioner and the belt itself... Remember to set everything to TDC before taking apart the engine...

You can buy a haynes book at pep boys, or autozone

 

[lacroixdp]

That head gasket kit is just fine... you do not need to spend more for a Fel-Pro unit. Since your timing components were replaced recently, you can keep those to save costs. However, I do recommend replacing the belt. Get the $29 one from PD - it works just fine too. If you are really in a money crunch, you can even reuse the head bolts - 6bolt head bolts do not stretch. Make sure you clean the head threads and the bolts, however. You didn't mention checking the mating surfaces for flatness - you need to do that. As mentioned above, use copper spray on the head gasket.

 

[pneumagger]

I recognize I'm a newbie and doing an entire timing set seems daunting at the moment.
Most I've ever done under the hood are things like compression tests and changing spark plugs & oil.
You really think replacing all the timing parts are a must when they were done only 15k miles ago using OEM stuff?
I do plan on checking and resetting the tensioner when the head goes back on. I just really do not want to get into all the crank pully stuff.

Not to mention a timing set from PD is another $200 and the whole reason I'm doing the HG myself is money's tight.

 

[lacroixdp]

You really think replacing all the timing parts are a must when they were done only 15k miles ago using OEM stuff?

Absolutely not. You'll be just fine using all the parts again. I do recommend replacing the belt, however. The belts only $29 at PD.

 

[pneumagger]

That head gasket kit is just fine... you do not need to spend more for a Fel-Pro unit. Since your timing components were replaced recently, you can keep those to save costs. However, I do recommend replacing the belt. Get the $29 one from PD - it works just fine too. If you are really in a money crunch, you can even reuse the head bolts - 6bolt head bolts do not stretch. Make sure you clean the threads and the bolts, however. You didn't mention checking the mating surfaces for flatness - you need to do that. As mentioned above, use copper spray on the head gasket.

Good to hear. I'll use the copper spray on the composite HG, I suppose it can't hurt.
I was figuring on the ARP bolts because I'm already in there and I'd like to install a FMIC (someday) torun more boost.
I see around here the ARP and composite HG combo are good for the 20psi ranges.

My uncle works at a custom shop that does head work (among other things) and offered to give it a look and any work if needed.
I'll look into just getting the timing belt. It would be an easy swap as I have to pull the old one anyways and couldn't hurt anything.

 

[Ill-EagleTSi]

Hey man I think its easier to unbolt the exhaust mani from the head and the turbo. You will still leave the turbo in the car. Just get that mani off there. The head is heavy enough as it is to lift off the engine.

ebay sells the dsm manuals on CD for like 7-10 bucks!

 

[pneumagger]

Allright, tons of good info and I'm pretty much ready to buy my parts. Good to know I don't have to pull the turbo and can leave the intake manif. too!

For the timing belt, I know Gates is a good company... but what's the difference between the PCI (repackaged Gates belt) and the actual Gates belt sold @ PD?
The "Gates" belt is 2x as expensive as the "PCI" belt... but Gates make both... , ?!?

 

[lacroixdp]

Allright, tons of good info and I'm pretty much ready to buy my parts. Good to know I don't have to pull the turbo and can leave the intake manif. too!

For the timing belt, I know Gates is a good company... but what's the difference between the PCI (repackaged Gates belt) and the actual Gates belt sold @ PD?
The "Gates" belt is 2x as expensive as the "PCI" belt... but Gates make both... , ?!?

The difference is the box and the price. PCI is indeed made by Gates. As long as you do your belt install right and do not contaminate it with fluid you won't have any problems. I have never seen a timing belt break from a genuine manufacturer's defect - the belts break because of incorrect installation, failure to replace worn parts, fluid contamination, or the balance shaft belt taking it out. I've used that PCI belt without any issues whatsoever. Don't let the reasonable price deter you from a quality belt.