Replaced balance shaft belt, but still wont rev over 4.5K

[N2O_ZX2]

Well if you saw my other thread where I couldnt get the damn bolt out of the crank, I finally got it out after letting it sit overnight. Now, I still get some pretty bad vibrations, but everything is perfectly in time. The cars tach says it idles at 150rpms. Im positive that the tach is off, cause it should idle at about 800-900rpms. When I drive it, the vibrations and strange sounds go higher and higher, but when the tach hits 4-4.5k rpms, the car feels like it just doesnt wanna rev anymore. What else could be wrong with it? Do you think that maybe this is my rev limiter, since the tach seems off? I was going to get a video of it and try it again to show you guys, but right as I was backing up, I heard a loud PSSSSHHH sound, and the radiator hose blew off. The hose took the opening of the radiator with it, so now i need a new radiator too. What do you guys think happened? Did the thermostat just not open or some thing? Thanks

N2O_ZX2

oh and BTW ive already replaced the ISC, and the idle switch too.

 

[evi1clipse]

I'm having almost the same problem as you, can't rev past 4k, did you have the same problems before you swapped all those out. and also are you boosting anything.

 

[N2O_ZX2]

Yea I did have the same problems before I changed that stuff, but at least now when I push the clutch in the car doesnt die after I changed the ISC. I do boost, are you not boosting? My boost gauge says anywhere from 11-13psi.

N2O_ZX2

 

[evi1clipse]

my boost is set at 11 but it only gets 2-3 if that and if I push the clutch it will stay alive but with out it starts to just bog down like it's drowning, I'm thinking maybe timing jumped but doubt it but gotta check that anyways.

 

[BUCK]

I am HIGHLY suspicious of your Belt Timing being correct, if it IS correct do this.

1g Idle & Timing Adjustment

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

- Reset ECU 15 Minutes to clear all the crap out.

STRAIGHT FROM DSM MANUAL...

- With car off
- Ground that pin on the Diagnostic Connector
- Fully warm car up, No accessories on.
- Run at 2500 rpm more than 5 seconds
- Let idle for 2 minutes
- Adjust BISS 700-750 rpm
- Cut car off
-Disconnect Jumper at Diag Conn

- With Car OFF
- Connect Timing Jumper
- Fully warm up car - No accessories
- Check CURB IDLE is at 750 + or - 100 rpm (may take a little while to settle down being you just reset BISS)
- Set Timing at 5BTDC (which means you'd see 4 IMO due to bad angle)
- Cut Car OFF
- Disconnect Timing Jumper
- Cut car ON
- Check Basic Engine Timing 8BTDC (kinda jumps from 7-9 usually).

My best guess is that your TB Tension & Timing is incorrect - that will cause this .

- If you were to watch what the TB does when tensioned you'd see that the TB literally "rolls" into Time as the Tensioner takes out the Slack at the proper point & pulls slack out of the front side of the TB loop.

- My 2 cents on Tension Setting - latest revision.

- Set Sprockets & Balance Shafts per VFAQ - EXCEPT....

-May be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket ONE Tooth Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll it back into time.

-Don't forget to apply Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you preload the Eccentric Tension Pulley enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Body - So...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Bolt (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Pulley is a Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on one of the Water Pump Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns letting the Tensioner Tension the T/Belt.

- This is a good time to Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take it's initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

- Stop at TDC & check Belt Timing Marks - This is where you may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Belt as I said at First.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED BELT.

- Don't forget you have ALLTHREAD tool is there to help you hold what Tension you've got SO RUN IT BACK IN TILL IT TOUCHES.

- IF UNDERTENSIONED put MORE LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Bolt, putting more Tension on Belt & Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

- Now DON'T forget to back Allthread Toll off a few turns so Tensioner can apply Tension.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small you have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Back off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a little.

- Install just enuff Belts & Pulleys to run Water Pump - attach Battery charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers & no Alternator.

- Immediately when you get it running Check Oil Pressure & Reset Base Timing & Idle as it comes up to Full Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment - Check for Coolant & Oil Leaks - Check your new Water Pump & Water Pump O Ring, etc, etc...

- After a good hot idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin & Button up Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one good stretch as Belt heats up & "sets" in the Pulleys & hence need one good re-setting after initial idle.

Now get to work & report back...

 

[N2O_ZX2]

The timing is perfect as far as the cams go. I rotated the exhaust cam clockwise to get the marks to line up when tension was pulled out. Im thinking that its gotta be an ECU problem, so I think Ill throw another one in there when I get a chance. Any other thoughts? Thanks

N2O_ZX2

 

[BUCK]

What was the Compression numbers from your previous "I Jumped Time but didn't bend any valves Threads?"

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214715