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Replace or Keep Crank

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fastclip

15+ Year Contributor
77
0
Nov 6, 2005
Saint Joseph, Missouri
Okay I am doing a Winter Rebuild on my 95 Gst 7 bolt 4g63. The current engine had about 130k on it. I will be taking the lower block to the machine shop to have the honing, redeck, hot tank and balancing done. I will be running wiseco 8.3:1 with Eagle rods. Arp studs all throughout the block. I don't want to bore it unless I have to for maintenance reasons, but from an observation of the block doesn't look like I will have to though. The top of the head will have BC 272 intake and exhaust cams, new valves, BC racing springs w/ TI retainers, then new water and oil pump. Also, eliminating the balance shafts. I will be running an act 2600 clutch with street disc and act lighten flywheel.

Now yes I know I have a 7 bolt....etc. Now what should I do with the crank.. All I really want to do is replace the bearing on it, and possibly do the mod to the bearings
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/show...ighlight=crank

Now should I replace the crank or just do the mod?
And no I do not want to do a 6bolt swap
 
Thank you, also i noticed 97 7 bolts had more of them. But none the less it is the chance I am going to take, now in 6 months will i get I told you so then so be it. Hopefully not though.
I will give you props though your car looks extremely clean and nice man. I love how black looks but as long as you keep it clean. I use to have a black car, but it sucked keeping it clean

Thanks man :thumb: and yeah its a bi*** to keep clean especially near the ocean.
P.S. everything happens for a reason...his loss is your gain...jump on that 6 bolt!
 
I'd hear it run and try to drive it if possible.. It could have spun a bearing and he's just trying to get what little he can out of it.. Not saying that is the case, but just giving you a heads up before buying a used motor..
 
If you do get it polished, I'd get it re-nitrided for safety reasons.. I've heard bad things about polishing/turning a crank and it spins a bearing not long after..

His crank is not nitrided. And they usaully spin bearings after being turned because the machine shop got the filet wrong. A brand new topline crank can be had for $400 or less. Have a knowledgable machine shop check your crank especially the thrust area. Chances are if it came out of a running engine and the bearings looked good, it will only need polished. How does the thrust bearing look anyhow?
 
Yea I have been kinda skeptical about the engine buy, like he sounds legit. Reason behind selling his is he found a stroker engine.

So I will be running my built 2g head, when i get it redeck i will have the stud holes bored out to accomendate the 6bolt block
Now with the conversion 7 to 6 Bolt (my car is a 95)
I looked it all up just want to clear somethings up
I pretty much need from a 6 bolt engine is
all the oil related parts- pump, filter housing, oil pan
Cooling parts-pump, hardline, thermostate housing and all the parts right there
1g CAS going to run the RRE quick connect
6 bolt flywheel
and rewire my ignition as RRE has diagram i think swap 1&4
Then do the wiring in the ECU

I will be using this mostly to guide me through it http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf
So is it really this easy????????
 
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