1G Replace Clutch fork as preventive maint?

[defbear]

I'm planning on buying an ACT2100, and SS clutch line possibly today. I was wondering if you guys could tell me EVERYTHING I should replace while I'm in there. I heard I should replace the clutch fork and ball. But I also heard I could just put some washers in there to make up for the worn out stock piece but I'm not sure about that. What about flywheel bolts??? My car has 164,000 all completly stock except for a 2.5 inch exhaust and boost controller. Thanks guys.

 

[TalonTSi-AWD91]

Just replace the clutch fork and pivot ball. I tried just putting a washer under the pivot ball too and it worked for awhile, then my clutch fork started to bend so now I have to pull the tranny again. You can either get a new OEM one or Taboo's heavy duty clutch fork.

 

[logic]

I tried just putting a washer under the pivot ball too and it worked for awhile, then my clutch fork started to bend so now I have to pull the tranny again. You can either get a new OEM one or Taboo's heavy duty clutch fork.

I put a washer under the pivot ball, AND used Taboo's billet clutch fork (on our 1g). I don't think I'm going to have to worry about bending; you have to hold one of those forks in your hand to truly appreciate how beefy they are.

 

[TalonTSi-AWD91]

I put a washer under the pivot ball, AND used Taboo's billet clutch fork (on our 1g). I don't think I'm going to have worry about bending; you have to hold one of those forks in your hand to truly appreciate how beefy they are.

Taboo's clutch fork is the way to go for sure if you don't mind spending the money. If money is an issue, you can get the revised stock clutch fork and pivot ball for $62 from DSMotorsports. I would go with Taboo's clutch fork if possible though like logic said because you wont have to worry about your clutch fork again. Regardless of which one you pick, just make sure to replace it if it hasn't been already, it will save you a ton of time down the road.

 

[defbear]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll look into the Taboo fork.

 

[bigfoot]

You'll need an alignment tool and some grease too.

When you pull the flywheel keep track of all the dowel pins, front and back. My machine shop lost the one on the crankshaft side. Since it was Saturday when I discovered it missing I had to wait 5 days to get one from Mitsubishi. 5 days for a $3 part.

 

[CREEP]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll look into the Taboo fork.

Be aware! You WILL wait a while for this.

 

[bigfoot]

The OEM revised/stronger fork is plenty strong for a 2100.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

how good is the revised one for a 2600 though? should i put a washer on the pivot ball?

I got the revised fork already, new pivot ball, act flywheel and 2600 clutch

 

[bigfoot]

should i put a washer on the pivot ball?

You will soon be good at pulling and installing transmissions. :laugh: I did it three times one day. When your installing a different PP with a freshly turned flywheel you don't know the fork ends position untill you bolt the trans up. You want the fork end to be slightly on the drivers side of center. Photo http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm Thats why I pull the hood and use a comealong, you dont want to benchpress that thing several times.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

You will soon be good at pulling and installing transmissions. :laugh: I did it three times one day. When your installing a different PP with a freshly turned flywheel you don't know the fork ends position untill you bolt the trans up. You want the fork end to be slightly on the drivers side of center. Photo http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm Thats why I pull the hood and use a comealong, you dont want to benchpress that thing several times.

sheesh, why do i find these things out after i get all the parts.. sounds like its going to be a pain installing it... i don't mind pulling transmissions as long as its not pulling out the axles and the whole long routine!

I'm about ready to sell the damn car before i even get it to run and just get something fun and luxurious w/ warranty

 

[WuYing]

Is the revise clutch fork strong enough for the 2600? if not I guess i will just have to get the taboo clutch fork......

 

[WuYing]

Also, there's many ppl have the disengagment problem after they put 2600 in their DSM......is this problem only for 1g vehicle?

 

[my97mitsGSX]

i'd like to know as well having a 2g with a 6bolt swap in it

 

[the1cancer]

replace the clutch fork, pivot, and throwout bearing. ACT clutches are a waste of cash, get RPS and either buy a xact flywheel or resurface your original flywheel to 612 if there are no cracks in it.

 

[WuYing]

I already got my ACT 2600, XACT flywheel, Throwout bearing, street disc......and i guess all i need now is the revised clutch fork and pivot ball huH?? and shimmed the pivot ball??

 

[logic]

In a 2g, you don't really need to shim the pivot ball; you've got two-way adjustment for your clutch engagement, so it's really not necessary (unless you notice that the fork is obviously out of position once you put it all back together). I'm running the original fork, original pivot ball, 2600+street disc, and Fidanza flywheel in my 2g, and while engagement was off when I put it back together, it wasn't anything a little bleeding and adjustment didn't fix. I have a Taboo fork and new pivot ball sitting on the shelf waiting to go in when I swap the new block into the car, but that's because I want the extra peace of mind (and because I'm probably going to end up with something heavier than a 2600 pressure plate shortly after the new engine goes in). Don't be surprised to notice that your master cylinder is leaking, and you start experiencing ghost pedal after the swap; the added pressure tends to highlight master/slave problems fairly quickly.

On our 1g (installed a 2600+street disc and Fidanza flywheel), we shimmed the (new) pivot ball to get the Taboo fork we used to the right position. We also needed to replace the master and slave cylinders, because they were basically leaking all over the place. Finally, we had to do the pedal repair/welding, because after all that, we saw that the pedal assembly under the dash was completely hosed, and we couldn't get the engagement right (a longer slave cylinder rod wouldn't have even helped; the pedal was just slopping around the pedal rod). Once all of this was done (along with a TRE tranny), I found myself preferring to drive the 1g over the 2g.