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Repair Time: Clutch replacing..

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meliketoball

15+ Year Contributor
1,505
5
Jan 4, 2007
Bay Area, CA, California
Hey guys, I recently sold my 2gnt for a 1997 GS-T and the clutch is about done. It slips and I was wondering to those who replaced a clutch on their 2g or 16 with the 4g63, how long it took them. And I know I should so some research but how much are the OEM replacement clutches cost? Any feedback would be great except the mean ones! Thanks! :thumb:
 
I would go with a upgraded clutch, there are quite a few vendor/site sponsor companies that carry a replacement clutch for your car. Check them out.

As for how long it will take. For the unexperienced I would estimate a weekend. Once you do it, it will go faster the 2nd/3rd/4th/1000th time!

You will need to have your flywheel resurfaced, along with replacing the throw out bearing. Might want to look into a new Fulcrum ball (pivot ball that the clutch fork pivots on).

Good luck and pick up a haynes/chiltons manual. That should help a little. :)
 
It can be done in a weekend. Mine personally took 3 months. :( I got it bolted back up and in place in about 2 days (this is with removing everything, from the battery tray, starter, or anything else remotely in the way...it turns out it doesn't all need to be removed) but I couldn't get the car to disengage and I couldn't figure out why, so I kept replacing things. Master, slave, clutch line, pedal assembly, fork, ball, everything. The problem was the FP flywheel studs that came with the flywheel bolt kit. I should have just used the stock bolts.
 
I just did the clutch on my 97 gst. It wasn't too too bad, but it did take about a weekend worths of work, thank god I had a lift to work on it with. A few words of advice, make sure u have something to keep the engine level when you pull the tranny, it makes it a whole lot easier to get the tranny on and off. I went with the Fidanza 8lb flywheel and the fidanza 2.1 clutch. I love it, but personally if I do it again it'll be the fidanza 3.2 going in. Make sure to get a oem throw out bearing. Its a good learning experience if you've never done it before, make sure you have someone around that knows mechanic work if you have never attempted it. The way I pulled the trans out was unbolt the lower control arms and slide the axles out, a lot easier than pulling the axles. Hopes this at least gets you started. Have fun :dsm:
 
Look to pay about as much for a stock replacement as you would for aftermarket. You might not get a warranty from some shops using a clutch kit then provided. Look to pay anywhere from 6-800 bucks depending on the shop and if there is more work then just a basic clutch job. That's parts and labor BTW. Check out some of the suppliers ads on the website here they can get you OEM parts for a cheap price. Good Luck
 
im pretty sure book hours on a 2g is about 9 hours, and i dont think there's much of a difference between a 2g fwd/awd as far as book labor(shop labor). 1g's there is.

If you plan to do it yourself;

i like to use an engine hoist for doing 2g clutches, mainly because of all the mounts on the trans. it makes it much easier to move the engine where you want it during re-install. I also advise if your car has ABS to be careful with the abs sensor wires and disconnect every mounting bolt for the wire and zip tie it out of the way. any strain on the wiring/shock to the sensor will kill it.(this is when you are removing the axles.) any other suggestions just shoot me a pm. i just did a 2g yesterday :thumb:
 
Replace the rear main seal while you're in there also. It's a $15 part, but takes a lot of work to get to it. It's right behind the flywheel.
 
You'll find a lot of stuff if you search, but basically I'd recommend replacing the rear main, pivot ball, clutch fork, put in a SS clutch line, and the clutch and TOB obviously. You may need to replace your slave and or master shortly after putting in the clutch as it may wear them out quickly, but I would hold off until you see one of them leaking. Resurface the flywheel or get a lightweight one. If you decide to go lightweight, I'd also get FP's longer flywheel bolts (they're longer b/c the aluminum flywheels are thicker, so the bolts need more threads) and use red loctite, but don't use their flywheel studs as I've said above.
 
You'll find a lot of stuff if you search, but basically I'd recommend replacing the rear main, pivot ball, clutch fork, put in a SS clutch line, and the clutch and TOB obviously. You may need to replace your slave and or master shortly after putting in the clutch as it may wear them out quickly, but I would hold off until you see one of them leaking. Resurface the flywheel or get a lightweight one. If you decide to go lightweight, I'd also get FP's longer flywheel bolts (they're longer b/c the aluminum flywheels are thicker, so the bolts need more threads) and use red loctite, but don't use their flywheel studs as I've said above.

I've looked around and decided that I am going to get the LuK Clutch Kit and buy another OEM flywheel. The LuK kit comes with a pilot, tool, pressure plate and the clutch disk. I am going to look into the rear main seal, fulcrum ball, and clutch fork. May I ask what is the TOB?
 
meliketoball said:
Hey guys, I recently sold my 2gnt for a 1997 GS-T and the clutch is about done. It slips and I was wondering to those who replaced a clutch on their 2g or 16 with the 4g63, how long it took them. And I know I should so some research but how much are the OEM replacement clutches cost? Any feedback would be great except the mean ones! Thanks! :thumb:










I bought a BorgWarner Brute Force clutch kit about a year ago (which I ended up never installing and returning within days). I think it was about $188 for the clutch, flywheel, and alignment tool. Check out this thread.



Also check out this how-to guide for the 2G FWD people. I'm glad I stumbled upon it a while back. :)
 
meliketoball said:
I've looked around and decided that I am going to get the LuK Clutch Kit and buy another OEM flywheel. The LuK kit comes with a pilot, tool, pressure plate and the clutch disk. I am going to look into the rear main seal, fulcrum ball, and clutch fork.






You can find most (if not all) that stuff in this link. It would also be a good idea to look through this thread.






May I ask what is the TOB?






Click here.
 
My friend and I did the clutch in my 1g awd in 2.5 hours without breakinng a sweat. But I have a lift in my garage and air tools. Do you plan on upgrading this car?
 
On the lift and air tools and most important experience then yet 2.5 hours it is but my first time on the ground with jack stands and no air tools and no experiance, it took me 6 hours just to pull it out. The axle nut was fun. 1/2 ratchet with huge pipe and someone to hold the brakes gets the job done.
 
My friend and I did the clutch in my 1g awd in 2.5 hours without breakinng a sweat. But I have a lift in my garage and air tools. Do you plan on upgrading this car?

HA! Thanks for bragging..:( We the unfortunate weren't blessed with such luck and wealth. I don't really planning on upgrading anything other then an air cone, manual boost controller, 1g BOV and a 1g throttle body. Other then that, I don't want to upgrade the turbo or whatever. I really want it sort of stock.
 
On the lift and air tools and most important experience then yet 2.5 hours it is but my first time on the ground with jack stands and no air tools and no experiance, it took me 6 hours just to pull it out. The axle nut was fun. 1/2 ratchet with huge pipe and someone to hold the brakes gets the job done.

Oh yeah! Floor jacks..thats they way I am going to go. But yeah does anybody have any experiences with the LuK CLutches?
 
Look to pay about as much for a stock replacement as you would for aftermarket. You might not get a warranty from some shops using a clutch kit then provided. Look to pay anywhere from 6-800 bucks depending on the shop and if there is more work then just a basic clutch job. That's parts and labor BTW. Check out some of the suppliers ads on the website here they can get you OEM parts for a cheap price. Good Luck

I was quoted $715 for a new clutch replace and labor. So he is right on the money. Might as well go with an upgraded clutch since it will cost about the same either way if you bring it to a shop.
 
I can change my Galant trans is about 3-4 hours in my driveway. 1.5 hours out, and about 2.5-3.5 in. The hardest part for me in shifting the trans around to get the shaft into the hole LOL. It saves time not to take off your upper intercooler piping too. Id be extremely broke if I paid for labor, It scares me to think about it. Also, you do not have to worry about your splines on the tcase being right, I have a spare transfer case just so when I change my trans I wont be transfercaseless, nothign is more frustrating that buying a new t case and having the wrong trans for it after you already put it in the car. :cry:
 
Oh yeah! Floor jacks..thats they way I am going to go. But yeah does anybody have any experiences with the LuK CLutches?

I had one in my car. I put about 2000 miles on it. I tyhink it would be ok for regular driving. But when I launched my car it just spun unless i slipped it a rediculous amount. And don't listen to everybody that is saying by an aftermarket clutch unless you plan on beating on the car. The stock replacements will last a lot longer then an aftermarket clutch about 60,000-80,000. Aftermarket clutches will last 10,000-20,000 miles depending on how much you abuse them.
 
if you do it yourself you can pick up a stock clutch from a local parts store for about 140 otherwise you can go with an aftermarket that will hold better and look at anywhere from 400 on up depending on what you get but i would go for the aftermarket especially if you plan on doing later mods. do NOT get an ebay clutch dont even think about it there junk i made that mistake :(
 
I can change my Galant trans is about 3-4 hours in my driveway. 1.5 hours out, and about 2.5-3.5 in. The hardest part for me in shifting the trans around to get the shaft into the hole LOL. It saves time not to take off your upper intercooler piping too. Id be extremely broke if I paid for labor, It scares me to think about it. Also, you do not have to worry about your splines on the tcase being right, I have a spare transfer case just so when I change my trans I wont be transfercaseless, nothign is more frustrating that buying a new t case and having the wrong trans for it after you already put it in the car. :cry:



wow 3-4 hours??? I wish I could do that in my evo. Haven't changed one in my 1g yet, but it looks a hell of a lot faster, but I didn't know that much faster.
 
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