Removing vac. lines & tips

[campos_racing]

Hello fellow tuners.

Its been almost 1 year since my dsm was down. I didnt have the funds to bring it back to life and my son was born as well. Now I am back on track and ready to start the dsm game again.

Ill start off by saying I never really worked on the car but did aquire some parts for when it would be working again. Well guess what, its working and I need some tips since I can say I'm lost again. I started the car no problem and its idling good as of right now.

Now questions and tips that you can chime in on would be great.

1. I "upgraded" my maf to the 2g maf. Now as I read more on this it says I will be running at least 20% rich. If I buy some 550cc inj. will it do the job right? Or will I need a tune?

2. I was going to install my boost gauge and read there is 2 places to tee in. One being the "p" in the throttle body, and the other to the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the fps. What is the best and why?

3. I have my egr blocked and I was going to remove the hoses to the TB. It says to leave "p" for the boost gauge. What if I tee it in the fps? Do I cap the "p" as well?

Thanks for any tips and help guys. Sorry for the essay I typed.

 

[Fehrion_sit]

by dsmlink, ive been in your shoes, from there you will have control of every mod you do from now one!!!


my boost gauge is Tee'd off between my FPR and manifold. no problems ever when set up correctly. i have all other throttle body lines capped. my BOV and wastegate and MBC are all on the same line. super easy.

ill grab pictures if you need them

 

[undefined0000]

Hello fellow tuners.



2. I was going to install my boost gauge and read there is 2 places to tee in. One being the ”p” in the throttle body, and the other to the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the fps. What is the best and why?

I suggest teeing off of the FPR before the solenoid if you still have it because after the solenoid will be delayed. Teeing that far after the TB will give a reading that's closer to the valves

 

[campos_racing]

Thanks for the help guys. I am planing on buying link, but I still need alot of things here and there, and get the plates and inspection as well.

Fehrion_sit, it would be great for some pics. You know they say 1000 words. Since I was reading some other threads and diagrams about what to cap and not to cap on the TB. Did you do all 4?

I plan on removing all the lines I dont really need. Then possibly a catch can next and possibly delete the pcv valve.

 

[undefined0000]

If you can do a complete elimination, you can just route the tb lines back around.

 

[campos_racing]

If you can do a complete elimination, you can just route the tb lines back around.

what exactly do you mean by this?

 

[SpryTSI]

what exactly do you mean by this?

I'd like to know also.

I followed the diagram here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html
Factory:

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After

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I did mine slightly different, the MBC is run off the wastegate/turbo nipple (j-pipe) and my boost gauge is off the "P" port. BOV is run directly to the intake manifold with no 't'. I just tried to remove as many t-fittings as possible for direct lines.

The fitting caps I bought to cap the TB all cracked within a few months... anyone have a good link for high quality caps?

 

[campos_racing]

I'd like to know also.

I followed the diagram here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html
Factory:

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After

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I did mine slightly different, the MBC is run off the wastegate/turbo nipple (j-pipe) and my boost gauge is off the "P" port. BOV is run directly to the intake manifold with no 't'. I just tried to remove as many t-fittings as possible for direct lines.

The fitting caps I bought to cap the TB all cracked within a few months... anyone have a good link for high quality caps?

If you wouldnt mind posting pictures about how you did this setup?

The 90 TB is different and thats where I got confused. That canister to the top left, where is this exactly located? Thanks for some help man.

 

[OutKastGSX]

The canister is located under the battery.

 

[campos_racing]

The canister is located under the battery.

Thanks man, I'll check it out when i get home.

Alright guys well i already started to dissasemble the emissions hoses. My TB is a 90' and has 2 on top and 2 on the side. Do I plug all 4? The 2 on the side lead to a sensor? On the thermostat housing.

The other I can see that they are connected to the bottom of the intake manifold.

What do I have to plug? And what do I leave just disconnected? Thanks for the help guys

I have some pictures now. This is my TB

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Heres next to the termo housing.

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[campos_racing]

I got more pictures in case somebody decides to help.

These are the remaining lines

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Here's where they go to on,the bottom of the intake manifold.

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heres the canister but I didnt know which lines to plug.

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And heres my block off plate.

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So anybody know what to do next?

 

[19Eclipse90]

To remove everything you can:

• All four ports on the throttle body can be capped.
• The two ports on the thermovalve on the thermostat housing can be left open.
• The ports behind the intake manifold can be left open and the solenoids they run to on the driver side firewall by the brake booster/master cylinder can be removed.
• Remove the canister completely. The line that retreats back towards the firewall in your picture can be left open or put a filter on it; it should not be capped.
• Make sure that the hole for the line from the canister that runs to the intake pipe is plugged as well.
• Do not T into the BOV line.
• Boost gauge is fine T'd off between the fuel pressure regulator and intake manifold.

Also make sure you bolt that ground strap back up onto your throttle body, as shown in your first picture in post #10.

 

[campos_racing]

To remove everything you can:

• All four ports on the throttle body can be capped.
• The two ports on the thermovalve on the thermostat housing can be left open.
• The ports behind the intake manifold can be left open and the solenoids they run to on the driver side firewall by the brake booster/master cylinder can be removed.
• Remove the canister completely. The line that retreats back towards the firewall in your picture can be left open or put a filter on it; it should not be capped.
• Make sure that the hole for the line from the canister that runs to the intake pipe is plugged as well.
• Do not T into the BOV line.
• Boost gauge is fine T'd off between the fuel pressure regulator and intake manifold.

Also make sure you bolt that ground strap back up onto your throttle body, as shown in your first picture in post #10.

Thank you very much. I really just needed details as the other threads had nothing specific.