2G Recovery Points

[roadsalt]

Anyone know where some good spots are on the front and rear of the 2g to which a recovery rope could be safely attached without worrying about bending frame members? I drive my car in heavy snow in the mountains, and have had to dive off into the ditch in a few feet of snow a couple times to let snowplows by. I can usually get myself out with enough digging (DSM AWD for the win, seems to be better than most modern AWD systems in the snow even on such a low car) but it would be nice to be able to have a truck yank me out or be able to pull out other stuck vehicles. Don't have a welder at the moment but I could make some hefty bolted steel brackets. It's just a question of where the points with the most tensile strength are so I'm not messing up the shape of the body/frame on a hard pull with a running start. Also worth mentioning I'm running a front mount so that complicates the placement on the front. Any suggestions welcome, thanks

 

[motomattx]

Trying to pull anything with your car will damage it period, the amount of damage varies. A running start is a definite no no, these are sports cars, not trucks, I suggest that you quit driving the car in the snow and buy a truck or cheap Subaru that is cheaper and parts are still available for, these cars are getting to be too valuable to use it as a truck/suv/beater.

 

[turbosax2]

See this thread for some ideas:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tow-strap-mounting.519984/

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

You can use the front cross member and a strap point and rear subframe but not for constant points. But it is the best areas for once in a while tows. I think these cars are one of only a few i know that dont have a tow point since most make it legal to have 1 for emergencys so its weird.

You can make something yourself and possibly even bolt a stray to the lower crossmember bolt for a free option! Just remember it will hang if left so will possibly snag if left on driving around

 

[roadsalt]

Thinking about using some really fat webbing and looping it around the whole front K-member (subframe) on the passenger side behind the trans, then running it under the trans and all the way up through to the front, this would avoid pulling on the front crossmember. If anything the webbing would snap before bending the entire subframe. In the rear, maybe loop around the whole subframe on either side of the diff and have the loops come together in the middle where a hitch would be, and always hook into both loops at the same time if I need to pull. I would obviously never do a running start on a static line only a dynamic recovery rope that absorbs the shock or snaps before causing damage.

 

[High PSI]

In the rear, maybe loop around the whole subframe on either side of the diff and have the loops come together in the middle where a hitch would be, and always hook into both loops at the same time if I need to pull. I would obviously never do a running start on a static line only a dynamic recovery rope that absorbs the shock or snaps before causing damage.

Anyone ever given anything like this a go? I need to pull my car from the rear to get it off the lawn where it's been sitting for the last few years. Last time I tried using the rear sway bar but ended up bending it.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Anyone ever given anything like this a go? I need to pull my car from the rear to get it off the lawn where it's been sitting for the last few years. Last time I tried using the rear sway bar but ended up bending it.

Sway bar no but the frame will be plenty strong enough. I have towed the car from one workshop to another using the crashbar in front and rear before. Its not perfect but it worked.