Rebuilt head with non turbo cams!

[Bastard1g]

I had to get a used head from this head shop in town and told them to make sure they put turbo cams in my head if they were going to use a non turbo head. Well, after feeling my power drop off @ 5500, I am pretty sure they put the non turbo cams in. I did a search on this and found that the exhaust cams are the same on 1g's but the intake cams are different. I am going to switch the intake cam from mine to my friends gvr4. It probably explains why the car drives like shit and hesitates, then all of a sudden boost hits till 5500, then it falls off and feels like crap.

Don't let this happen to you. How easy is it to swap just one cam? I have done my motor and timing belt job a few times but never attempted to leave everything on and try to sneak the cam on like some people said they did.

 

[Tallen]

You should hardly feel a difference form N/T cams. I can't recall the #'s exactly, but they may even be more aggressive than 2G turbo cams.

 

[Bastard1g]

I have the service manual at home. It looks like it may be a big difference in the intake cams. I will post them when I get home. I think it has to be the intake cam because there is no other reason why my power should be falling off so low, feels like a pushrod motor.
It runs good toher than the power band being weak. Here are my mods.


20g vrs 3" turboback exhaust, cone filter dejontool race fmic kit dejontool intake pipe act2600 ss clutchline Aem wideband gauge 780cc injectors 95 eprom ecu with keydiver chip aeromotive afpr, earls fuel filter with -6an fuel lines re-wired 255 hp fuel pump 1g bov with dejon tool seal kit mod prothane motor mount inserts,6bolt swap, Rebuilt stock internals, Arp fasteners,Balance shaft eliminator kit,coil overs/ ford probe gt wheels 225/50/16 kumho's

 

[eclpsd1]

Here is some info on the difference between years and models of stock cams.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172950&highlight=intake+cam

 

[Bastard1g]

someone posted a lot of useful info, so I will copy and paste it onto this post.


Valve timing DOHC
cam ID mark (B,C) (A,A) (D,C) (E,A)

Intake valve
Opens BTDC 21" 26" 21" 16"
Closes ATDC 43" 46 "51" 48"

Exhaust valve
Opens BTDC 57" 55" 57" 55"
Closes ATDC 18" 9" 15" 9"



2.0 DOHC non turbo cam specs all years:

Intake valve opens 26 deg BTDC and closes 46 deg ABDC for a duration
of 252 deg Cam ID mark "A" 1.4 inch cam height
Exhaust valve opens 55 deg BBDC and closes 9 deg ATDC for a duration of
244 deg Cam ID mark "A" 1.39 inch cam height

2.0 DOHC turbo 5 speed up to 1994:

Intake valve opens 21 deg BTDC and closes 51 deg ABDC for a duration
of 252 deg Cam ID mark "D" 1.4 inch cam height
Exhaust valve opens 57 deg BBDC and closes 15 deg ATDC for a duration of
252 deg Cam ID mark "C" 1.39 inch cam height

2.0 DOHC turbo automatic up to 1994:

Intake valve opens 16 deg BTDC and closes 48 deg ABDC for a duration
of 244 deg Cam ID mark "A" 1.4 inch cam height
Exhaust valve opens 55 deg BBDC and closes 9 deg ATDC for a duration of
244 deg Cam ID mark "E" 1.37 inch cam height

2.0 DOHC turbo 5 speed AND automatic 1995 and after:

Intake valve opens 21 deg BTDC and closes 51 deg ABDC for a duration
of 252 deg Cam ID mark "J" 1.37 inch cam height
Exhaust valve opens 57 deg BBDC and closes 15 deg ATDC for a duration of
252 deg Cam ID mark "J" 1.37 inch cam height

 

[Bastard1g]

ok, I swapped the cams out the other night and finally back together yesterday morning. Big difference. I feel it pull to 7,000 now instead of 5500. Well, thats all. I figured I would let you guys know how it went. Now if I can fix a few lil things on her, it will be all good.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

N/t cams are better from what I heard, Have I been mis-informed?