chrisgarza
Proven Member
- 31
- 0
- Mar 9, 2013
-
Raleigh,
North Carolina
I have read a lot of threads about rebuilding the GT Concepts Evo 3 GT with Heavy Industries internals. Maybe I missed it but I never found the thread that verified this 100%. So to those unlucky and lucky few who ended up with a DSM with this setup, here ya go.... This was accomplished with the G Pop TD05 Super Back Rebuild Kit #Z49178-81210.
Birdseye of the comp wheel
Remove the compressor wheel nut with a 10mm 12 point socket. *This is a left hand thread* If you do not pay attention to this you will break/bend the shaft. Carefully remove wheel and shaft to expose the seal plate and snap ring and remove the heat shield from the hot side.
Use a snap ring tool and remove ring. I found the easiest way to remove the seal plate was through the oil return hole. You are replacing the plate anyway so insert small flat head and tap around lip of inner seal plate until it pops out. You will now see the oil cover and thrust bearing.
Remove the thrust bearing assembly and separate thrust ring by "walking" off the piston ring. Now remove the o-ring for seal plate.
Now you can remove the journal bearings and remaing snap rings. Here is a parts comparison. The only thing I noticed was different with the kit and original parts was the M.H.I. journal bearing oiler holes were smaller then originals. Not sure why but hey if mitsu is fine with it me too
Install is reverse order making sure to use a quality lube and you can't use too much. The pictures show it without the balance being done. If you choose to not have it rebalanced atleast use a scribe or paint pen and mark the relationships of shaft, wheels, housing. However most local shops will do this for less then $80. I sent mine off to G Pop Shop who I purchased kit from. Also clean the bejesus out of your cartridge. I used Brake Clean and saturated all parts for 24 hours in oil before rebuild. I took a wire wheel and right angled drill to the hot side to clean off carbon build up. Now would also be the time to do any porting or polishing if you wanted. *I did find a crack in the wastegate port and opted to replace with a used true m.h.i. cartridge I also had a local machine shop port the new waste gate hole, hot side port and had them machine a 34mm stainless flapper for me. Cost me $20 but I serviced their A/C 
When I get out of the probationary member deal I will upload to the site for future reference. Also I attached an exploded diagram from G Pop. Always helps.
#1 Journal Bearings
#2 Retaining rings for journal bearings
#3 Piston ring, turbine end
#5 O-ring for compressor housing
#6 Thrust Ring
#7 Thrust Bearing
#8 O-ring for seal plate
#9 Thrust Collar
#10 Oil Deflector
#11 Piston ring, compressor end
#12 Seal Plate
#13 Retaining ring for seal plate
#14 Left-hand thread locknut for compressor wheel
* Oil drain gasket (not shown in diagram)
*Mod sorry for posting here but I am still probationary.
Birdseye of the comp wheel
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Remove the compressor wheel nut with a 10mm 12 point socket. *This is a left hand thread* If you do not pay attention to this you will break/bend the shaft. Carefully remove wheel and shaft to expose the seal plate and snap ring and remove the heat shield from the hot side.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Use a snap ring tool and remove ring. I found the easiest way to remove the seal plate was through the oil return hole. You are replacing the plate anyway so insert small flat head and tap around lip of inner seal plate until it pops out. You will now see the oil cover and thrust bearing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Remove the thrust bearing assembly and separate thrust ring by "walking" off the piston ring. Now remove the o-ring for seal plate.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now you can remove the journal bearings and remaing snap rings. Here is a parts comparison. The only thing I noticed was different with the kit and original parts was the M.H.I. journal bearing oiler holes were smaller then originals. Not sure why but hey if mitsu is fine with it me too
Install is reverse order making sure to use a quality lube and you can't use too much. The pictures show it without the balance being done. If you choose to not have it rebalanced atleast use a scribe or paint pen and mark the relationships of shaft, wheels, housing. However most local shops will do this for less then $80. I sent mine off to G Pop Shop who I purchased kit from. Also clean the bejesus out of your cartridge. I used Brake Clean and saturated all parts for 24 hours in oil before rebuild. I took a wire wheel and right angled drill to the hot side to clean off carbon build up. Now would also be the time to do any porting or polishing if you wanted. *I did find a crack in the wastegate port and opted to replace with a used true m.h.i. cartridge I also had a local machine shop port the new waste gate hole, hot side port and had them machine a 34mm stainless flapper for me. Cost me $20 but I serviced their A/C
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
When I get out of the probationary member deal I will upload to the site for future reference. Also I attached an exploded diagram from G Pop. Always helps.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
#1 Journal Bearings
#2 Retaining rings for journal bearings
#3 Piston ring, turbine end
#5 O-ring for compressor housing
#6 Thrust Ring
#7 Thrust Bearing
#8 O-ring for seal plate
#9 Thrust Collar
#10 Oil Deflector
#11 Piston ring, compressor end
#12 Seal Plate
#13 Retaining ring for seal plate
#14 Left-hand thread locknut for compressor wheel
* Oil drain gasket (not shown in diagram)
*Mod sorry for posting here but I am still probationary.
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