Rebuilding, need a little help

[MichaelSuch]

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of a rebuild and need some help. Basically I have almost everything apart. I am leaving the motor in the car (big mistake, won't be doing that next time!), I have the head, intake manifold, turbo, exhaust, oil pan, p/s pump, all belts except balance shaft belt, and a few other things off the car. This is a 6 bolt motor.

Earlier I had to turn the crank (timing belt off) to get to a few rod bolts easier but I think I read somewhere that this a big no-no and totally forgot about it, why is this a no no? I think I'm going to have the problem with timing everything. So far you need to have the Oil sprocket, crank sprocket, balance sprocket, and the cam sprockets timed for the timing belt right? Is there anything else I need to have timed when placing the timing belt/balance shaft belt on?

I currently have a refreshed head from the machine shop with Ferrea Valve seals, ACL Race Rod and Main bearings, ALL new belts, new pistons and rings, thermostat, plugs, plug wires, water pump, o2 sensor, 2g exhaust manifold, prothane motor mounts, ARP head studs, bottom end gasket set and head gasket set and I think that's all I got right now. Is there anything else I should really get for it? Also any tips when installing any of these parts would be great. This is the first engine I'm rebuilding and could use any pointers. I'm hoping to start reassembling the motor in a few days. Also the pistons on 1g use press fitted wrist pins correct? I would most likely need a machine shop to attach the pistons to the rods then. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

STOP!

You cannot and should not do a bottom end job with the shortblock in the car. For one, you can't unbolt the crank (attached to flywheel/trans) and secondly you can't measure your clearances easily! Remove the block from the car and do it right. I know it's a PITA, but it will save you a lot of headache down the road.

I think you need to do a lot of research on here and vfaq.com. I don't normally spoon-feed, but this just calls for it or else I can't sleep at night (ok not really, but still). READ THESE:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...6707-project-rely-ability-6-bolt-rebuild.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/313947-2g-pistons-1g-rods.html

 

[Jeff@Slowboy]

STOP!

You cannot and should do a bottom end job with the shortblock in the car. For one, you can't unbolt the crank (attached to flywheel/trans) and secondly you can't measure your clearances easily! Remove the block from the car and do it right. I know it's a PITA, but it will save you a lot of headache down the road.

Bingo! See bold print. It can be done but it is a back yard way of doing it and you cant be sure that it is all within spec. Please take the block out.

Oliver
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[shredwin]

Bingo! See bold print. It can be done but it is a back yard way of doing it and you cant be sure that it is all within spec. Please take the block out.

Oliver
[email protected]

I agree get that block out of there. It is so much easier when its out. I did mine last weekend and now it runs awesome with the EVO pistons I used. Take your time, and do it the right way

 

[MichaelSuch]

Well what's the easiest way to remove the block out of the car? I read that with a 1g you must pull the transmission out at the same time, which I really don't want to do. I know people were talking about not having enough clearance to only pull the engine due to the timing components, but if I have mine removed would I be able to? I would love to pull the block out since I would have soooooo much more room to wrench things on and make sure everything is in spec, but I'm sorta on a time frame here. If I can do it without pulling the transmission I'll most definately do it.

 

[Jeff@Slowboy]

Well what's the easiest way to remove the block out of the car? I read that with a 1g you must pull the transmission out at the same time, which I really don't want to do. I know people were talking about not having enough clearance to only pull the engine due to the timing components, but if I have mine removed would I be able to? I would love to pull the block out since I would have soooooo much more room to wrench things on and make sure everything is in spec, but I'm sorta on a time frame here. If I can do it without pulling the transmission I'll most definately do it.

The trans is only hanging by 1 mount if you try to leave it in. Pull the engine and trans out together. I can do this in an AWD in about 2 hours. It may take you a bit longer if it is your first time. Plan on making a Saturday of it get a case of beer and take your time. Label things as you pull them out.


Oliver
[email protected]

 

[MichaelSuch]

Well we did decide to pull the trans out as well, since it really needs rebuilt anyways which I don't really have the money for right now but whatever, I'll do it anyways. We've got the whole thing almost tore apart, I just need to remove the shafts, drain transmission fluid, unbolt the mounts and pull it out. I have the block already completely tore down (rods and pistons out even) except for the front case.