The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rebuilding 6bolt 4g63 Tips/Advice

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DsMWookie

15+ Year Contributor
360
1
May 3, 2004
Birmingham, Alabama
Welp my motor started knocking/ticking the other day and I've gotten tired of putting work into a worn motor (160K). So I am pulling the motor to tear it down and get it ready to take to the machine shop. I already ordered .20mm over Weisco pistons and Eagle rods. I am gonna run ARP head bolts and pretty sure I am going to buy a bearing set from Mitsubishi. The head right now is stock other than HKS 264's in it. I am probably going to upgrade the valves to SS. I am looking into getting the head ported and polished mildly because funds are a little tight and I wasn't expecting this.



1) question what is the benefit of nitrite valves?
2)Is it bad to have the crank turned if the rod bearing has scared the crank?
3)Oil pump was working fine should I check the tolerances by the manual and re-use?
4)Does it matter if I'm not using the same block from the car being that Im having the block deck and head resurfaced?
5) Should i keep the factory oil squirters? Someone just mentioned this and I have never heard of getting rid of them for 6bolts.
6) The factory springs and retainers will be fine for big power as long as im not revving it past 7.5k correct?


Please let me know of any advice pointers you have. I am not trying to be a cheap ass in the build but I am limited on funds since I just bought a new clutch and turbo right before this happened.
 
1) Nitrat valves I would not worry about since your on a budget.
2) I have and others have turned the mits crank. The thing is that the crank has a special hardining material on it to help it last. If you turn the crank and do not have it rehardened it will not last but maybe 50-60k. If nothing has spun. measure the crank and polish it.
3)If you have 160 on your motor I would recomend buying a new front cover and oil pump assembly.
4) It doesn't matter what block you use, but you shouldn't need to have the block decked. Just have the head resurfaced.
5) Keep the squirters. They are there to oil the cylinder, piston and rod pin. If you remove them they could build to much heat.
6) Yes they will work. but if you have 264's I would go ahead and get crower springs and retainers or what ever brand you prefer.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top