4G63 Stroker Build: Suggestions/Tips

[twoTSis]

Hey,
I'm beginning to build a 4G63 2.4L Stroker motor to drop into my 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. Anyone who has done this before please give me any hints, so that I can avoid learning some things the hard way.

Here's a list of my plans on my blog:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/twotsis/191-plans-summer-2008.html

Let me know. Thanks!

 

[Boost92awd]

I would suggest not buying the gasket set from ebay. Check out are supporting vendor for that. Also for how long it will take to build will vary. All depends on how much time you have to work on it, how fast the parts get there, how long it will take to get machine work done on block and head.

 

[twoTSis]

I would suggest not buying the gasket set from ebay. Check out are supporting vendor for that. Also for how long it will take to build will vary. All depends on how much time you have to work on it, how fast the parts get there, how long it will take to get machine work done on block and head.

Any reason as to why you do not suggest the eBay gasket set?

 

[Boost92awd]

ebay=cheap. You have a nice build going on there, everything looks quality except the ebay gasket set. You really dont want to go cheap on gaskets. Thats the last thing you want is to do your whole build and drive it for a couple thousand miles and a have a leak somewhere and have to rip it all apart again.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

I agree with the ebay gaskets comment. It's kind of like when you go shopping for food. Some things you can get away with not getting name brands (like sugar) and other things you just can't (like maccaroni and cheese), did you every even taste the store brand? Absolute rubbish!

 

[TSIMonsteR]

I'd also stick with OEM gaskets... or FelPro at the very least.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

I have some tips/hints for you:

Use a LOT of assembly lube
Make sure you have a good ring grinder
Get a quality torque wrench and feeler gauges
Clean everything, twice, at least
Use plastic gauge on every bearing (not that any should be out of spec, but you never know)
Make sure you get what you want from the machine shop
Have the block and head surfaced to a 40RA or better finish (just tell them thats what you want)
Make sure the holes that the head studs go in are blown out with compressed air
Torque studs down in steps (like don't just go right to 85 lb / ft for a head gasket, go like 20, 40, etc.
Take your time, oh and

Clean everything, twice, at least & Use A LOT of assembly lube

 

[twoTSis]

Most of those tips are obvious, but how about when I go to the machine shop here in the next week. What all should I ask to have done?


Any vendors with a cheap OEM full gasket kit??

 

[Boost92awd]

Any vendors with a cheap OEM full gasket kit??

Here you go. Just send them a PM for a price. They're running a special right now.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...mance-overstock-sale-too-many-items-list.html

 

[twoTSis]

Most of those tips are obvious, but how about when I go to the machine shop here in the next week. What all should I ask to have done?

What about this....

 

[jkimes]

Most of those tips are obvious, but how about when I go to the machine shop here in the next week. What all should I ask to have done?

I guess the answer to that question depends on how paranoid you are about engine durability and crankwalk. I have not heard of many 2.4 7bolts (4G64 blocks) that have crankwalked and I'm sure CW is even more rare for 6bolt 2.4 (G4CS blocks), but if your already investing a large chunk of money rebuilding an engine you might as well make it as bulletproof as possible. One of the best theories for the source of crankwalk in DSM's was that the iron content in Mitsu engine blocks found in 1995+ models was less than in previous years and could cause the mains to shift, allowing excessive crank play which eventually leads to crank walk. This is one reason some people opt for a 6bolt 4g63 or a G4CS. When I upgraded to my 2.4 I already had a good 4g64 block and crank so In order to ensure my engine would not crankwalk I had the machine shop dowel pin the main girdle and align hone the mains. My machinist also assembled the block with a custom torque plate which simulates the presence of the head on the block and ensures that everything is aligned perfectly. All of this is probably overkill, but like I stated before, better to do it right the first time than to spend more money fixing problems later. The oil squirters were also considered to be a possible crankwalk culprit, but the 4G64 does not have oil squirters so you won't need to bother having them removed if your using a 7bolt. You might as well go ahead and eliminate the balance shafts while the engine is apart and have the machinist balance and blueprint everything. You may also want to go ahead and have the cylinder walls bored .20 or .40 over if you haven't purchased pistons yet. In my humble opinion, you should get the largest bore possible and at least 9:1 compression. Your blog said something about BC custom pistons and econorods.. I'm not sure how comfortable I would feel building a motor with connecting rods nicknamed "econorods" but then again, I'm sure BC knows what he's doing. I personally use a crower/wiseco 9:1 combo and it's been very durable so far. The use of Clevite 77 bearings as well as ARP rod bolts, main studs, and head studs is also highly recommended. If it's a used block you probably want to have it hot tanked and shave the deck so that your head gasket seals perfectly as well. If you have the extra cash to spare and if the machine shop is already going to be doing any work on the head, you might also want to go ahead and invest in a 3 or 5 angle valve job as well as some port work.

 

[twoTSis]

Thanks for the help. What would you guys have to say about when I go to put it all together then? anything to make sure not to forget/helpful hints?

 

[playitlouddsm]

If im not mistaken our cars from the factory have a 3 angle valve job. Correct me if im wrong.

 

[twoTSis]

If im not mistaken our cars from the factory have a 3 angle valve job. Correct me if im wrong.

Is that just completely off topic or are you replying to a post on this thread??

 

[gsx4g64]

I'd also stick with OEM gaskets... or FelPro at the very least.

I a not 100% sure on this, but I am 98% sure that there is not felpro head gasket for the 7bolt 4g64. At least, not for a block that has been bored .20 over. I called felpro and they said that they do not make anything that big for this motor. I know that a lot pro divers use the felpro gasket.

 

[twoTSis]

This is for a 4G63 not the 4G64

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Thanks for the help. What would you guys have to say about when I go to put it all together then? anything to make sure not to forget/helpful hints?

Sorry this thread went MIA from my searches for a little. Make sure you do the clearencing on the block for the rods (mostly the #3 cylinder but could be others. I disagree with going to as large a bore as possible. Infact I would suggest just the opposite. If it were my motor I was building for you, I would go with a light steel rod (such as a SCAT or Howard) and a decent compression ratio (8.5 - 9.5:1) and use ACL tri metal bearings. I'd also recommend a main bearing cap alignment dowel kit (or MB CAD kit as they're called). As for helpful tips to putting it together, take your time, clean everything, and use assembly lube generously through out. Keep us updated man...

 

[twoTSis]

Have you built a motor before?

 

[Zack Huffman]

Jayce is giving you what I consider good advice that is mostly common knowledge among our engine builders.

Excessive overboring weakens cylinder walls (but I'm sure 0.04 over isn't a huge deal), #3 rod hits the mains without clearancing when building a 100mm stroke 2.3 (so your longer 102mm crank may have even more clearance issues), ACL race bearings are now the choice over the Clevites (which are no longer trimetal), and forged rods are both lighter and stronger. The only thing I'm not sure about is the necessity of a MBCAD kit.