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Rebuild or replace 16g

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YERGA

Probationary Member
6
0
Apr 27, 2010
EDISON, New Jersey
On my 16g oil is leaking out of oil jurnal into down pipe and charge pipes is it better to rebuild internals or relace. 5,000 miles on turbo fins all in good shape car has a hard time producing power. Also on the housing if it is stamped 48178-05200 i still have a 16g right ? It was bought shady seller it has a drill make over the "5" ont he -05200 like it was rebuilt already.

Also forgot to mention when waste gate actuator is bolted up thewaste gate door in the exughst side dosent stay closed. Is that a faulty part or incorect part is attached
 
Wheel damage = replace; no wheel damage = rebuild.


If you don't want to rebuild it yourself, PM me and we can work something out. I can also fix up your wastegate actuator issue.

Be sure you're not feeding the turbo with too much oil pressure at the inlet. This can cause slow spooling and blow oil past the seals, which may give the appearance that the turbo is blown even though there is no shaft play.
 
16g Serial Numbers

If the wastegate actuator isn't completely closing the flapper then its not necessarily faulty, you just need to shim it. Throw some washers on the bolts that secure it to the compressor housing.

Now that you've looked at the above 16g serial numbers you'll realize that the 16g your running is the smallest of the bunch. Its going to cost you roughly $400 to rebuild your small 16g, when buying a MHI Evo III 16g in good condition will cost around $300. Thats your decision whether or not its worth the rebuild... :coy:

:dsm:
 
Would a evo iii turbo be a exact match for the one i have now or would i have to mod something i do not use this turbo on a mitsu , it's on a s10 p/u and everything is set up for the 16 g i have now. Also is there a big poewer increase to the upgrade
 
16g Serial Numbers

If the wastegate actuator isn't completely closing the flapper then its not necessarily faulty, you just need to shim it. Throw some washers on the bolts that secure it to the compressor housing.

Now that you've looked at the above 16g serial numbers you'll realize that the 16g your running is the smallest of the bunch. Its going to cost you roughly $400 to rebuild your small 16g, when buying a MHI Evo III 16g in good condition will cost around $300. Thats your decision whether or not its worth the rebuild... :coy:

:dsm:

I agree I found my ported MHI evo III 16g for 325. if you do decide to go that rout make sure to check the serial number on the housing to insure a genuine mhi turbo:thumb:
 
16g Serial Numbers

If the wastegate actuator isn't completely closing the flapper then its not necessarily faulty, you just need to shim it. Throw some washers on the bolts that secure it to the compressor housing.

Now that you've looked at the above 16g serial numbers you'll realize that the 16g your running is the smallest of the bunch. Its going to cost you roughly $400 to rebuild your small 16g, when buying a MHI Evo III 16g in good condition will cost around $300. Thats your decision whether or not its worth the rebuild... :coy:

:dsm:

Who's rebuilding your turbos??? ROFL It's not going to cost you $400 to rebuild a small 16g unless you've damaged the wheels.

And don't underestimate the small 16g. It puts some pretty decent power to the ground. I'm guessing this is on a 2.2L I4?
 
Would a evo iii turbo be a exact match for the one i have now or would i have to mod something i do not use this turbo on a mitsu , it's on a s10 p/u and everything is set up for the 16 g i have now. Also is there a big poewer increase to the upgrade
An Evo III 16g and small 16g fit just the same, its the size of the compressor wheels that are different between the two. Nothing in your setup would need to be changed to run the bigger Evo III 16g, if you have the cash you might look into getting this monster in a 16g housing from Forced Performance. HTA68

:dsm:
 

Eh. If you feel like paying for all those unnecessary bells and whistles for a small 16g rebuild, be my guest.

EDIT: FP won't rebuild his turbo anyway.
We no longer perform repair service or upgrade service to turbochargers that were not built or sold by Forced Performance Turbochargers.
 
Yup a 2.2 l i4

Both wheels are in great shape all blades in tack no ding or nothing just leaking oil in the charge and heat side
 
Who's rebuilding your turbos???
Apparently not me! LOL

Ah, that explains it.

I've had a few FP turbos in for rebuilds at my shop- most recently an 18G. The thing that makes me nuts about FP is that when performing a rebuild they always hone the journals out to the next size regardless of what condition they're in. I agree that sometimes this is necessary, but not every time. It's because of FP rebuilds that I need to stock oversized journal bearings in .005" and .010" specs for MHI turbos.

That would be like cutting the crank and boring the block literally every time you disassemble your engine. If the bores are straight and the crank isn't scored and the oil tolerance is within spec, there's nothing you'll gain from boring a block or undercutting the crank except a large bill at the machine shop.

EDIT: FP won't rebuild his turbo anyway.
That's fine- they can sell all the new turbos they want, and I'll continue to perform rebuilds on the turbos they won't at a fraction of their price. Everybody wins! :p
 
after i get this turbo rebuild what would be the correct waste gate size for the turbo i currently have a 7psi gate. I really dont want to produce tons of power motor isnt set up for big power.
 
Well, that's a tricky question. The stock wastegate is fine but designed to operate around 10psi stock. The easiest, most reliable way to keep it at 7psi would be to go with an external wastegate. You don't need a massive 60mm wastegate for that, you will be fine with a 38mm Tial. You can either buy an actual Tial or probably get away with an ebay knockoff if money is really tight. You will of course have to block off the internal wastegate somehow if you go external. What type of exhaust housing are you using with this turbo and how is it melded into your exhaust system? Basically, did you weld a DSM flange to your exhaust and are you using a DSM O2 elbow to get it back into your exhaust or are you doing something completely different like a STS type setup?
 
after i get this turbo rebuild what would be the correct waste gate size for the turbo i currently have a 7psi gate. I really dont want to produce tons of power motor isnt set up for big power.
I actually have a compressor cover at the shop from a Hahn Super 16G which would fit your turbo if you decide to go with an external gate. There really isn't a way to attach the MHI actuator to the Super 16G cover, which is why I had reserved the cover for someone planning on running an external gate.

The benefit would be no need for a j-pipe on the compressor outlet. Looks like so:

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even with that i still have a lot of cutting and welding to get that extra amount of pipe to fit. I rather keep an internal wg and hope for the best.
 
That O2 housing is designed to fit exactly like a stock cast piece would. There might be a little bit of clearance problems but I don't think so. I mean come on, you can drop a V8 in there, this shouldn't be a problem.

If you really just want to replace the actuator that holds the flap shut, you can overpay for a Forge Motorsports adjustable wastegate. Those runs from $165+ and have mixed reviews. In my opinion, the ebay knockoffs would probably perform better.
 
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