rebuild of my 420a N/a

[anfncr]

I want to rebuild my 420a (N/A) motor. I just wanted to know what the cheapest parts I can get are (links would be greatly appreciate), I would prefer parts that will allow me to go turbo but if not its ok. Nick ([email protected])

 

[freshlane]

Remember cheapest doesn't mean good quality always. With internals you usually get what you pay for especially on eBay. If you want to go turbo save up a little extra and get parts that are backed my people on the forum. That way you can boost with confidence. eBay has a Wiseco kit if you are serious.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEON...tegoryZ33623QQihZ016QQitemZ260105915122QQrdZ1

 

[anfncr]

i see what you are saying, i just wanted to know what the best parts for the price i geuss..

 

[knight007]

when it comes to internals you dont wanna go cheap. just to ask why are you wanting to rebuild it, unless it has alot of miles on it you should be fine turboing it as long as you do the regular matinence and have good compression

 

[ThGdFathr]

...and dont boost the crap out of it...running higher boost (above 8 psi) on stock internals can blow your engine easier...especially the rods

 

[eclipse1999]

hey i just have a question for you guys is the head good? and why? thanks here are the specs

The valves are REV 1mm oversized stainless steel valves. The intake and exhaust ports have been enlarged and polished. The dividers in the intake ports were knife edged for better flow. The dividers in the exhaust ports were reduced in size, but not knife edged (because of some kind of turbulence in the exhaust flow, I forgot exactly why.) There is no boring done to the valve guides (they don't flow air, they just hold the valves in place,) the valves and valve seats are 1mm oversized, and a 3-angle valve job was done. The combustion chambers were bowl blended to prevent hotspots and detonation under high boost pressure. The valve springs are cranes, with stock retainers. The bottom of the head was decked and milled slightly to ensure straightness, not enough to change the compression ratio. The head was also blueprinted to check for cracks before the work was done, and hot-tanked afterwards to clean everything out (it wasn't clean after I used it for a year, of course.) The head studs are ARPs, made of really high grade steel. All the work was done by Dark Enhancement of NY.

 

[ThGdFathr]

what exactly are you asking us?

 

[eclipse1999]

i mean is it good if i wanna get more power out of it and have turbo put in the near future? because i am also puttin in crane camshaft for nitrous and aem gears with it. and then i will go after the block have it bored out and put in je forged 8 8 1 i think pistons and eagle rods.

 

[DSM-ZERO]

www.raceeng.com has some really good prices

slowboy racing st1 short block isnt a bad price also......if you call them they are very helpful and might be able to put toghter a piston and rod combo for you
http://slowboyracing.com/estore/home.php?cat=1572

 

[ThGdFathr]

It sounds like youve done alot more work to the engine than alot of people who turbo their N/Ts...so yeah, it should hold up to pushing boost pretty well. How much did all of that cost you, if you dont mind me asking?

 

[eclipse1999]

spent about 1500 on just the head. and i dont know yet bout the block so far i got up 2 800 on the block