Rear suspension?

[John B]

I read somewhere about welding rear to get rid of rear stear & am wondering if they were talking about the rear subframe diff mount thing. I picked up a 92 laser rs have done headgasket, timing belt, 4 whl brakes,ball joints, boost to 14psi, homemade down pipe with wideband bung trying to make a fun winter car on the cheap. I just drove in snow for the first time & wow it was scary. I'm ASE master tech of 20 years & have checked for loose ball joints bushings etc.. a little dry cracking but nothing I would call serious. It feels like its moving around back there?? I dont really want to do the whole poly thing if I dont have to.

 

[Quasimondo]

The rear control arm has what's called an 'active toe.' At the front of the control arm is a rubber bushing that lets the rear wheels toe in during cornering and heavy acceleration, promoting understeer. Safe on the streets, not so good for the track or autocross. There are a few ways to correct this:

1. Ingalls makes replacement control arms that use spherical bushings that eliminate the active toe part of these arms. http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38420.htm. I'm not sure if they're still in production, though. Once you install them, you must have the rear end aligned asap to prevent excessive tire wear.

2. Diamond Star Specialties make solid bushings for factory control arms. You retain the stock control arms, so there's no need to have your alignment checked when you're done (although it's a good idea to do it anyway) http://www.diamondstarspecialties.c...clipse_Talon&subname=DSM&productid=27-100-300

3. Replace the rubber bushing in the control arm with polyurethane bushings, or take some big metal washers and weld the control arm solid. Works for some, others complain of issues with binding, more details can be found here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160933&highlight=active+toe+elimination

 

[John B]

The rear control arm has what's called an 'active toe.' At the front of the control arm is a rubber bushing that lets the rear wheels toe in during cornering and heavy acceleration, promoting understeer. Safe on the streets, not so good for the track or autocross. There are a few ways to correct this:

1. Ingalls makes replacement control arms that use spherical bushings that eliminate the active toe part of these arms. http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38420.htm. I'm not sure if they're still in production, though. Once you install them, you must have the rear end aligned asap to prevent excessive tire wear.

2. Diamond Star Specialties make solid bushings for factory control arms. You retain the stock control arms, so there's no need to have your alignment checked when you're done (although it's a good idea to do it anyway) http://www.diamondstarspecialties.c...clipse_Talon&subname=DSM&productid=27-100-300

3. Replace the rubber bushing in the control arm with polyurethane bushings, or take some big metal washers and weld the control arm solid. Works for some, others complain of issues with binding, more details can be found here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160933&highlight=active+toe+elimination

Thank you very much for your time!!