Rear Battery Rule Question

[Cody D]

Does anyone know if you HAVE to have a sealed battery box if you have a rear mounted dry cell battery? The track I'm going to is IHRA rules.

Thanks.

 

[Nos~4G63]

I have an oem battery and had it tied down in the hatch and drove for 2hours to the local track only to be told to get a sealed box. Im not sure if dry cell makes a difference, but I would say just go with a NHRA approved sealed box. Im very satisfied with the moroso box although it is a bit pricey.

 

[diambo4life]

It MUST be sealed. Other tracks don't even allow it if there's no physical separation between the trunk and seating compartment.

 

[Lunch_Box]

I dont know for dry batteries but at my track normal batteries need to be in a sealed box and a person has to be able to cut the power from outside the car.

 

[Cody D]

I read that it's easier to do the fuel pump rewire, but doesn't the power have to come from the front for the fuel pump, because it wouldn't be constant.

I ordered this aluminum box for $120 Canadian.

http://www.taylorvertex.com/hp/BatteryBoxesAndRelocationKits.aspx

I also picked up my kill switch for $30 Canadian.

 

[ryanman]

There is only one battery box made that is NHRA approved and it's made by Moroso, you must also have a battery cut off switch mounted outside of the car and it must be labeled, also have to rewire your alternator so that when you cut the switch off it kills the alternator.

edit : never seen that Taylor/Vertex box before, I assume it's sealed?

 

[Dallas J]

There is only one battery box made that is NHRA approved and it's made by Moroso, you must also have a battery cut off switch mounted outside of the car and it must be labeled, also have to rewire your alternator so that when you cut the switch off it kills the alternator.

edit : never seen that Taylor/Vertex box before, I assume it's sealed?

Semi-correct. The Morosso is the only non metal box thats legal. Their are some that are metal like the one Hal and Dave have that are legal.

-Dallas J

 

[Cody D]

On the box for the Taylor one it says that it meets rule 8.1 (I think) of the NHRA rules, and yes it is sealed, it doesn't look very well sealed to me however.

I have hooked up the kill switch and have ran the output of the alternator back to the hot side of it, I also connected the wire for higher voltage for the fuel pump to the hot side of the kill switch.

Hopefully I don't have a problem passing that Taylor box through Tech at the track, it just doesn't look like it seals incredibly well.

This is the engine bay.
With Battery
ftp://24.65.103.189/media/pictures/talon102.jpg
Without Battery
ftp://24.65.103.189/media/pictures/talon121.jpg

This is my kill switch, just put through where the lock was.
Inside Car
ftp://24.65.103.189/media/pictures/talon124.jpg
Outside Car
ftp://24.65.103.189/media/pictures/talon126.jpg

This is where I mounted the box.
ftp://24.65.103.189/media/pictures/talon129.jpg

 

[Big Bald]

Do you absolutely positively have to have a external kill switch mounted? I plan on getting a SMIM and the battery will need to be moved. Will they throw me out if i do everything but the external switch?

 

[Dallas J]

Depends where you race at. Some tracks are picky and follow NHRA rules exactly for liablitly reasons, and others will let things slide.

Ive been to tracks that let me run with not batt hold down (engine bay). The track I go to now follows the rules pretty much, and I doubt they would let a rear kill switch slide.

-Dallas J

 

[Cody D]

Most tracks will not let you race without one, I'd be surprised if any did. The Kill Switch was one of the easiest parts of the instalation for me, I didn't cut anything, just put it through the key hole, I also bought it for 30 bucks at a parts store. Apparently a lot of trucks have dual batteries and use the kill switch to kill one of them.

 

[Big Bald]

my only issue is if someone walks by my car and realize what it is.....I will think of something.

 

[Cody D]

My Kill Switch is completely hidden, in order to access it you need to remove a small piece of plastic that hides two screws, you'd have to take out those screws and then remove that piece of plastic where the hatch key was. They would also have to know that there is a kill switch back there.

Then when I go to the track I just remove that piece of plastic.

Good Luck if you decide to do it.

The part I messed up was I put the breaker under the hood when it should be right after the battery, I'm going to change it tonight.

Edit: I just noticed you've got a 2G Eclipse so everything I've said is moot.