Ramdom missfire after 6 months of the 6 bolt?

[phillabaum03]

I started throwing the random miss fire code on my 2g which has a 6 bolt. It doesnt have the black top cas, which im going to switch to and see if that helps my problem. I just think it weird that it happens all of a sudden after running fine for 6 months. Or is that normal?

 

[2roll4life7]

It only happened for me when coasting at a steady speed and never under easy/hard acceleration. And after a while I started to develop different driving habits for coasting. Instead of consistanly holding the gas pedal down very little to coast, I just step on the gas pedal lightly for about 4-6 seconds and then I let up very quickly and repeat. It's tedious and annoying to get into this habbit, but after a while you don't even think about it, and you won't even realize you're doing it, I'll be driving friends cars and do it without noticing and they'll be like "wtf are you doing?". Shortly after I developed this habit (and would still get the misfire everynow and then) I got the blacktop CAS anyway (it's really hard to find, luckily I scouted ebay for a while till one came up). If you can't wait that long you can try a local junkyard or the mitsubishigraveyard and see if they have any. Careful though because this won't fix the problem completly but it will help a lot. The only 100% way to fix this that I know of is DSMLink because it has the invert signal option.

 

[phillabaum03]

Did it happen to you as soon as you put in the 6 bolt, becuase ive had mine in for about 6 months and it just started doing it. Is it possible for it to just start doing it after that long.

 

[2roll4life7]

I bought the car after I the guy had put in the 6 bolt and broke it in. So no, I don't know about the timeframe, sorry.

 

[grnchevyz]

Don't forget to check your MAS...I've had a bad MAS that would throw that code....only changed it after I changed everything else and got rid of it.

 

[AWDtsi1995]

Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.
This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the

ECU will start to look for misfires:
· 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
· Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
· Intake air temperature -10C or higher
· Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa

Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won’t check for misfires. The value that would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We’re going to add resistance to this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the
car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need to add more fuel with an AFC.

So let’s get started, Parts needed:
· A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don’t know what a potentiometer is.
· Wire strippers
· Soldering iron


Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver’s side of the center console. You should now see four plugs with a ton of wires going to them.

Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it’ll be the one that’s the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It’s orange with a white stripe.

Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer. Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn’t matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the way counter-clockwise.

Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won’t run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.

Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer.

Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get the CELs.




Sorry about the long post but this should do it.

 

[PIXER]

Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.
This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the

ECU will start to look for misfires:
· 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
· Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
· Intake air temperature -10C or higher
· Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa

Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won’t check for misfires. The value that would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We’re going to add resistance to this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the
car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need to add more fuel with an AFC.

So let’s get started, Parts needed:
· A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don’t know what a potentiometer is.
· Wire strippers
· Soldering iron


Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver’s side of the center console. You should now see four plugs with a ton of wires going to them.

Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it’ll be the one that’s the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It’s orange with a white stripe.

Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer. Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn’t matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the way counter-clockwise.

Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won’t run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.

Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer.

Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get the CELs.




Sorry about the long post but this should do it.

Did this work for anyone? I'm going to try it.