Rally Compilation

[aDee]

No, i'm not running lspr this year but i'll be servicing for Peter #614
Yes, some clips are from previous lspr

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I shall place that on myspace profile with your permission aDee?

 

[aDee]

Sure, I don't mind.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

Sure, I don't mind.

Are you by chance going to be competing in the Rally America thing this weekend? If so, I'll keep a lookout for ya. I am working a corner up there.

 

[sidewaystsi]

Yeah im pretty sure i saw your car there a couple of years ago when i went. The guy who drives the red mustang with the stripes is my hero, he gives no ####s and roosts everyone with gravel.hahahah

 

[cmspaz]

I've seen this vid a few times, and enjoy it thoroughly.

I've been toying with the idea of building a 1g rallyx/snowx car, as a friend of mine recently dragged me to a rallyx event to take pictures, and I've been attending ever since for that purpose, and it looks like an absolute blast.

I was curious what you did for a skid plate, though, since they don't make them for DSMs, as far as I can tell.

 

[Detective Coating]

That is some damn good driving! I wish I could drive half that good! Can't wait to see some more.

 

[csamn2007]

That was kick ass!

 

[Artago]

Hi all. Question for aDee. How much did it cost you to convert your car into a rally car. I just need to know what the regulations equipment set you back because I'm planning on buying a 1G and want to know what is required and what it costs. IE: Roll cage, seat belts, seats, skid plate, other?!?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[aDee]

Probably easier and least expensive would be to buy a rally ready car. Unless you got skills, time, tools and motivation to do most of the work yourself I wouldn't build it. These are minimum prices, so it doesn't mean it's the best option:
-roll cage can't really buy a good kit, needs to be build in the shop $1500 or DIY $500
-seat belts $250
-seats $500
-skid plate $150
-helmet $250, suit $250, hans $600
-intercom, rally computer, suspension, wheels, tires, lights, various bits and pieces, ... $xxx-$xxxxx

And then the real expenses start when you begin attending the events..

 

[Artago]

And then the real expenses start when you begin attending the events..

I figured this would be the largest expense.

Tom

PS: Thanks for the info.

 

[sandiballs287]

damn thats sweet

 

[cardot33]

really cool vid, I have so many questions from seeing rally cars, but i really don't want to dump them on you. that's probably going on my myspace page btw.

 

[aDee]

Part two of the Rally-Compilation saga. Enjoy.

Rally-Compilation 2 - Car Videos on StreetFire

 

[Artago]

Sweet video bud. But I wish you uploaded a high def version of it.

I'm trying to get into Rally myself. What kind of suspension are you running?

Got any advice for me?

Thanks man,

Tom

 

[jtmcinder]

Please don't try to rally a 2G. You don't have the front suspension travel. I did some damage just rallycrossing a 2G. Get a 1G or an Evo.

To OP: nice video. Captures the intensity well.

 

[Artago]

Please don't try to rally a 2G. You don't have the front suspension travel. I did some damage just rallycrossing a 2G. Get a 1G or an Evo.

To OP: nice video. Captures the intensity well.

Sorry, should of mentioned. I got a 1G as well

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/406969-finally-did-i-bought-1g.html

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Please don't try to rally a 2G. You don't have the front suspension travel. I did some damage just rallycrossing a 2G. Get a 1G or an Evo.

To OP: nice video. Captures the intensity well.

I got chewed to high heaven for saying that exact thing. Pretty sure I back tracked just to avoid being eaten.

 

[jtmcinder]

If you're referring to rallying (or even rallycrossing) a 2G, then you shouldn't have backed off. It's moronic beyond words to do that with a double-wishbone car with little suspension travel. Might as well rally a fricken go-kart.

Yes, I set FTD at three of four rallycross events in my 2G. But I'm a g*d and I don't mind working on the car.

Since then, I switched to an Evo.

 

[Artago]

Well I plan to Rally, Rally Cross, and Auto Cross my 1G so it's not an issue. I just need advice because I'm new to this.

Cheers, and thanks for any advice.

Tom

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Amazing. Keep doing what you do.

 

[Artago]

Amazing. Keep doing what you do.

Dur?

 

[jtmcinder]

Well I plan to Rally, Rally Cross, and Auto Cross my 1G so it's not an issue. I just need advice because I'm new to this.

If you intend to compete, then - as always - the first thing to do is read the rules. Depending on the existing mods to the car, you then choose a class. Next, you delete mods that are not allowed and plan the mods that you don't have yet. Remember that - as almost always - tires and wheels are the most important.

The only thing that is relatively unique to rallycross and rallying is protecting the car from damage. All of the major sanctioning bodies in the US allow for a skidplate and mudflaps in the lowest class (i.e., Stock). This is important.

Note that the Stock-class rules for rallycross and autocross match very well. This doesn't hold true for higher classes.

Let me give specifics for SCCA's Stock (which overlaps almost perfectly with other Stock-class rules). You are allowed to change the wheel offset by up to 9mm, run any DOT tire (although some regions ban alpine-symbol snows and SoCal doesn't allow snows at all), any shock with the same adjustability as OE, front swaybar, cat-back exhaust, drop-in, and a skidplate and flaps. My order of mods for 1G DSM would be the same as for an Evo: (1) skidplate and flaps, wheels at the minimum-legal offset, and snows; (2) softer front swaybar and shocks that are hugely digressive in bump; (3) cat-back and drop-in.

If you've already gone way beyond this and must run in Mod or Prepared, then I can't help.

On the flip side (as it were - I hope that's a joke), if you intend to just have fun, then all you need is a skidplate and flaps plus a sense of humor.

For your amusement ... my new car ...

 

[Artago]

Thanks for all the info.

The car is pretty much bone stock. All it has is hard upper inter cooler pipes, a k&n filter, and a boost gauge.

You mentioned a softer sway, it's info like this that I would have never thought of. Where do you even get a softer sway bar?

Also, what about ride height and springs? The car currently sits on Sprint lowering spring but those are getting swapped for stock springs soon. Should I shim the top of the springs to raise the car up by 5-10mm for extra ground clearance?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[jtmcinder]

I'm sorry to be pedantic, but is this for fun or do you want to be competitive? This is a key decision to make early on so you aren't upset later.

If it's for fun, then raise the car back up, think about a skid plate, and have at it.

If you want to be competitive, then the IC pipes have to go. They bump you up at least one category and then you'll be toast because you'll be up against Evos and STis on $3000 coilovers.

As to softening the front bar: the easiest option, since no-one sells an off-the-shelf softer bar, is to add tabs to the ends to move the bolt-holes outwards. (Remember: the stiffness of the bar is inversely proportional to the length of the arms on the ends.) This is what I'm doing to the Evo. But you need to check to be sure that you'll have enough room to do this. The alternative is to just remove one endlink for rallycrossing. This is sub-optimal, as my daughter would say; I'm not at all sure that no bar would be better than a bar that's too stiff.)

Oh, and as to shimming for extra ride-height: this is also not allowed in stock. Only do this if you're only planning to have fun. The only up-side to this idea is that it might mean you don't need a skidplate.