Quick stupid e brake backing plate question

[PlanZero]

I put new rear rotors on and for whatever reason the rotor is scraping the lip of the e brake assembly backing plate in the same spot on both sides. I ground off the rust but the sound still persists.
I was just going to try and flatten the lip with a hammer all the way around. Will this just make it worse since the lip isn't curling under the rotor hat? Should I bend the lip in further? I don't feel like pull in the hub, ebrake, plate to grind off the lip in this weather.
Anyone else have this problem?

 

[pksystems]

I have tonnes of room on my e-brake backing plate assembly. That lip should be square to the backing plate.

Are you sure you got the right rotors? Early 95 Talon rotors are supposed to be bigger.

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[PlanZero]

Yeah they're the right rotors. I noticed the old rotors were badly warped so I replaced all 4. But now I'm thinking the hubs could've been warped as well, hence the reason the new rotor sits unevenly. I'm pretty sure they've never been changed at 150k.
Also, pksystems, I believe you're showing me a picture of the dust shield. I'm referring to the ebrake backing plate, under the rotor.

 

[PlanZero]

BE FORWARNED I ordered new wheel hubs from rock for the amazing wholesaler closeout price of $10 a piece. Precision automotive #512136. These were private label and came in duralast packaging. I noticed some binding on one of the hubs , then discovered a yellow recall sticker on the box. I took it to auto zone and was informed that there is a safety recall on these hubs. The updated part is # 519136.

 

[pksystems]

The dust shield and backing plate is the same assembly.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Op;

What is the brand and part number of the rear rotors you are having issues with?

 

[PlanZero]

OK well I was wrong. After shaving the backing plate the wheel doesn't make noise when I spin it. I also retracted the ebrake pads as far as I could Now, the sound is back with a vengeance, only when making right turns, only from the rear left. Definitely sounds like metal scraping rhythmically with speed. I grabbed some autozone cheapo rotors on a hunch, but when I put it on the wheel won't even spin.
I've decided tomorrow I am going to grind off the ebrake backing plate lip completely. If I still have noise, I am going to remove the ebrake shoes and see if it stops. This is so frustrating. I have other stuff I need to do! I don't understand why this only happened when I changed rotors.

 

[chrysler kid]

If the old rotor was really worn down the parking brake shoe could be the problem. If the wheel cylinder for the ebrake is blown it would push that ebrake out as far as it could and would contact the rotor

Compare the inside of the old rotors diameter to the new one, I'm not familiar with the ebrake on the Awd but on a fwd application I have seen that happen

 

[PlanZero]

OK so I figured it out. I planned on snapping some pics but my anger got in the way. After grinding down the entire lip of the e brake backing plate, I still had the noise. I then removed the e brake shoes, and still had the noise. I used a grinding stone and shaved down the inner lip of the rotor and bam the sound stopped. Apparently this lip was rubbing the little "ears"(?) That run along the e brake plate.
This was definitely the problem, as when I installed the duralast rotor the wheel won't even spin.
I couldn't find this problem on this forum, or any DSM forum. Apparently this is one of those little idiosyncrasies unique to my 2ga. I had a similar problem installing my ST rear sway bar, which was rubbing a lip on the subframe. My 2gb doesn't have this lip, although my 2gb is AWD and my 2ga is FWD. Thanks for the suggestions!