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InfiniteGSX

20+ Year Contributor
3,183
15
Dec 10, 2002
Tijeras, New Mexico
I'm going to install a Walbro FP and I'm wondering if Stock Turbo Injectors will work on my 97's N/A 420A Setup without any mods?

I gotta also figure out some quick ways to get some juice in the car for the day I start her up with the new valves and Oil... What can I do guys?
 
Stock turbo injectors won't work without the resistor pack, then you'll need an S-FMU (or better) to tune down the larger injectors.
 
The same resistor pack that 2.4 Non Turbo Spyder users have to do in order to use the injectors?

Also why would I need to tune them down?
 
Turbo-car injectors will dump nearly twice as much fuel as our stockers, at the same pressure. Without appropriate fuel management, the car will have issues.
 
Fuel Mileage issues? Cause just for this one specific reason, I don't care about my fuel econemy... I just wanna milk it for everything its worth just for about an hour... actually for about 20-30 minutes.
 
Maybe I should just say screw jumping the gun and accept defeat for the time being...

I have a question about an exhaust thing... I see alot of hot rods doing it... and I've even seen some civics do it... but they bolt this plate on the exhaust pipe that stops the exhaust from the looks of it...
 
Maybe I should just say screw jumping the gun and accept defeat for the time being...

I have a question about an exhaust thing... I see alot of hot rods doing it... and I've even seen some civics do it... but they bolt this plate on the exhaust pipe that stops the exhaust from the looks of it...

Negative. It's a secondary dump tube per se, basically an exhaust cutout. The normal downpipe to muffler exhaust is primary, then the cutout creates a secondary 'short-cut'. That opening remains closed until the driver says so. You mount a switch in the cabin and a selonoid opens the plate. You're exhaust technically becomes 4-5 feet shorter, with better spool for turbos and overall lag decrease.
 
Oh I've known about the exhaust valve cutouts... but I've actually seen in the rear end of a civic, an exhaust pipe with this plate bolted to the tip blocking the exhaust... It sounded weird... And didn't sound like it had another cutout somewhere else.
 
It doesn't seal the muffler. Supposedly you add rings between the muffler and the end-plate to adjust the exhaust tone and flow. Each ring creates a gap... the more rings there are, the more gaps there are.

I don't like the idea, but that's how it works.
 
How can it not seal it those plates have no way to let exhaust flow go threw. They are just solid plates.

VelocitàPaola;151270365 said:
It doesn't seal the muffler. Supposedly you add rings between the muffler and the end-plate to adjust the exhaust tone and flow. Each ring creates a gap... the more rings there are, the more gaps there are.

I don't like the idea, but that's how it works.
:thumb: :rolleyes:
 
Ok now this picture of another application but same idea makes sense but still wtf do you do with that solid cap one????
 

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The solid cap one goes at the end. Look up Super Trapp. They've been building these mufflers for years. The idea is that the exhaust leaks out through the little holes in the intermediate rings and into the fiberglass packing. Yes the final plate is solid, but they still flow reasonably well and work great at providing the backpressure that an na car needs while not weighing much and being easy to install since it's all contained in the exhaust tip really.

Do not install one of these on a turbocharged car unless you want to lose hp. Turbo cars get all the backpressure they need and more from the turbocharger itself.
 
The solid cap one goes at the end. Look up Super Trapp. They've been building these mufflers for years. The idea is that the exhaust leaks out through the little holes in the intermediate rings and into the fiberglass packing. Yes the final plate is solid, but they still flow reasonably well and work great at providing the backpressure that an na car needs while not weighing much and being easy to install since it's all contained in the exhaust tip really.

Do not install one of these on a turbocharged car unless you want to lose hp. Turbo cars get all the backpressure they need and more from the turbocharger itself.

Then where do those bolts go if not in those wholes WTF Sorry this just seems like a gimic to me. Kinda like a "twister" catalytic converter I read about that actually sucks the exhaust flow.
 
The solid cap one goes at the end. Look up Super Trapp. They've been building these mufflers for years. The idea is that the exhaust leaks out through the little holes in the intermediate rings and into the fiberglass packing. Yes the final plate is solid, but they still flow reasonably well and work great at providing the backpressure that an na car needs while not weighing much and being easy to install since it's all contained in the exhaust tip really.

Do not install one of these on a turbocharged car unless you want to lose hp. Turbo cars get all the backpressure they need and more from the turbocharger itself.

I'm getting real sick and tired, of having to go into why backpressure is BAD, for ALL CARS, so I'll be nice, and get out the link of the long conversation and debate.......

P.S. Show me a dyno pull where this muffler idea shows an increase in power giving that all other constants are the same.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168578
 
Small amounts of backpressure can help low end torque production on naturally aspirated cars. Common knowledge.

A system that scavenges the cylinder well will create some backpressure, an exhaust that creates alot of backpressure will not scavenge though. There's a certain crossover point where you're not scavenging enough or you've got too much backpressure holding up the exhaust. Now to be fair most of this is handled within the first 3 feet of exhaust pipe from the head, but if you're "overflowing at the front" you can make up for some of that with a little more backpressure in the back.
 
Oh no! BACK PRESSURE WAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Randy, I' am not arguing with you at all, I look up to you and respect you! But I just have a question. 06 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Ecotec 4cyl. I've always thought the same thing, back pressure is a bad in any car! I used to have a 87 Honda Accord LXI that I turbod... I noticed tons of power increases when I eliminated most of the backpressure. Same with my Fiero. This Cavalier, we worked on some things to eliminate the horrid restrictive flow on the stock exhaust, but try to maintain the look of stock and somewhat the sound of stock. The stock muffler is like a f'n maze with a little 2mm wide exhaust tip! So we ditched that and went straight pipe through the entire thing. Bad mistake! That cavi could keep up with my Eclipse before, now it can't... Well the car was like that for a while, got some tickets so we had to work on it again. So we tried a Magnaflow Turbo II Muffler at 2.5" with a 3" dump pipe out the back to make it look stock... sounds really nice, and we noticed a massive increase in power! Adding Backpressure obviously! It helped with power! The car I belive now, both N/A could possibly take my Eclipse.

**EDIT** I read that thread you posted all the way through and it explained it all to me... I guess we just figured out the best N/A exhaust setup for it. Going to 2.5" Pipes from the stock 2" pipes took away a little backpressure but still kept the "scavenging" effect going on, and we relieved some more backpressure by installing the less restrictive muffler and cat and stuff like that.
 
BigRand said:
I'm getting real sick and tired, of having to go into why backpressure is BAD, for ALL CARS

I feel that, Randy.

:beatentodeath:

As we increase exhaust gas velocity at lower RPM's to aide in cylinder scavenging, we unfortunately get more backpressure at higher RPMs. Backpressure is an unwanted side-effect of a system with good low end scavenging, and does not contribute to the actual scavenging.
 
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